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Headshell/tonearm issues... NO idea what to do

MarkieIrene

New Member
So this is my first post, and the issue I've been having is actually what drove me to create this account. I have an ATLP120 that I bought in January. I use the headshell that it came with.

Nonetheless, I was listening to my turntable one night, like I always do. I changed the record, and when I went to drop the needle no sound was coming out. I did nothing differently. Nothing. I spent the next few days trying to figure out the issue. Checked the speakers, audio input, outlet, etc., and all of those seemed to be working fine. A friend suggested looking at the headshell, which became loose for some reason, so I tightened it and that solved the problem.

Just a few days later, the same thing happened. But this time, adjusting the headshell doesn't do anything. At best, I get a very faint amount of audio that I can only hear when I turn my receiver on all the way up (I have a vintage Pioneer sx780, so you know that **** is LOUD). I tried cleaning the headshell... didn't work. Neither did cleaning the tonearm.

...and now I kinda feel **** outta luck. What are the next steps?? I am assuming the headshell is the issue. I am not very handy, and really only know the bare minimum about how turntables work; I'm not familiar with the really technical stuff. So I would really appreciate some guidance!!! Are there any more steps that are relatively easy that I should try to get this thing going again, or should I take it somewhere to have it fixed? PLEASE help!!! I miss my records :(
 
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Welcome to AK. There should be 4 springy pins in the socket where the headshell connects to the tonearm. Try to clean those with contact cleaner and poke at them with a screw driver, making sure none are stuck mid way.
 
As you say, you dont have too much knowledge about turntables and you not familiar with technical stuf... OK. Easy way to do something but not to damage anything is to find some friend who know basic things on electronics and who have simple multimeter and show him this picture... If he realy know basic on electronic, I`m sure that he can understand this symbol... This is easyest way to resolve problem for first time.

instruments_conticon1.jpg
 
One nice feature of the ATLP120 is that it has an internal phono pre-amp giving 2 options to connect to your SX-780-
1. PHONO OUT - bypasses the internal phono pre-amp - connect to PHONO input on the SX-780
2. LINE OUT - uses the internal phono pre-amp to give a line level output that enables connection to a line level input like "AUX' on your SX-780.

Page 5 of your user manual bottom left heading "Setting the Pre-amp selector switch" tells you how to use or bypass the internal pre-amp.

Which method are you using?

It should be a quick test to try output options 1 and 2, following the instruction on pg. 5 of the user manual. If the problem persists using both methods, your problem is likely where you are currently looking. But if you get the correct volume from one output option then it's something else.
 
One nice feature of the ATLP120 is that it has an internal phono pre-amp giving 2 options to connect to your SX-780-
1. PHONO OUT - bypasses the internal phono pre-amp - connect to PHONO input on the SX-780
2. LINE OUT - uses the internal phono pre-amp to give a line level output that enables connection to a line level input like "AUX' on your SX-780.

Page 5 of your user manual bottom left heading "Setting the Pre-amp selector switch" tells you how to use or bypass the internal pre-amp.

Which method are you using?

It should be a quick test to try output options 1 and 2, following the instruction on pg. 5 of the user manual. If the problem persists using both methods, your problem is likely where you are currently looking. But if you get the correct volume from one output option then it's something else.

It's gotta be something else. I tested all the parts, and they're fine. It's definitely the headshell.
 
Using a DMM continuity test mode, follow the electrical path from the cart pins to the headshell connector, from the tonearm socket to the on-board pre-amp, from the pre-amp to the RCA plugs. Find out where it breaks.
 
There's basically nothing that can go wrong with the headshell. The wires, on the other hand, are another matter. They can become loose or break. These problems occur through age or mishandling. Cartridges can fail too but it's usually only one channel so that's probably not your problem.

Tnsilver's suggestion @ post #2 is a good one so I'd investigate that. It's probable that you have something making intermittent contact. That could be why the turntable began to work after you tightened the headshell and stopped working again sometime later.

Also, check the stylus for accumulated lint or crud. A large amount of this can cause the problem you're experiencing.
 
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@JamVal
AT-LP120 does not have true bypass outputs. After PHONO/LINE switch at the end, right before cable connector on preamp PCB, it have LC filter. L607/C632 for left and L606/C631 for right output. This LC filter is always there in any case Phono or Line.
 
@JamVal
AT-LP120 does not have true bypass outputs. After PHONO/LINE switch at the end, right before cable connector on preamp PCB, it have LC filter. L607/C632 for left and L606/C631 for right output. This LC filter is always there in any case Phono or Line.

Irrelevant to the issue at hand.
 
Irrelevant to the issue at hand.

Of course, just say to be clear with this part on AT-LP120 TT.
Anyway, for isuue, my opinion and what I will first to do with this as to trace connections from headshell to preamp. Two probes and simple multimeter with diode test and beep signal is more then good for this.
 
I have an AT-LP120 that I don't like and hasn't seen much use. While looking for threads on modifications I found this thread that may relate to the OP's problem:
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/at-lp120-problem-with-headshell-connection.822539/

The pins on the back of the headshell can get pushed in to the point where they don't make contact with the spring loaded pins inside the tonearm.
The thread link in this post shows a photo of one of the headshell pins that got pushed in.

Try another headshell if you have one.
 
I have an AT-LP120 that I don't like and hasn't seen much use. While looking for threads on modifications I found this thread that may relate to the OP's problem:
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/at-lp120-problem-with-headshell-connection.822539/

The pins on the back of the headshell can get pushed in to the point where they don't make contact with the spring loaded pins inside the tonearm.
The thread link in this post shows a photo of one of the headshell pins that got pushed in.

Try another headshell if you have one.

I checked for this and all of them are even. Unfortunately, I don't have another headshell :/
 
Of course, just say to be clear with this part on AT-LP120 TT.
Anyway, for isuue, my opinion and what I will first to do with this as to trace connections from headshell to preamp. Two probes and simple multimeter with diode test and beep signal is more then good for this.
Did you do this yet?
If you have something to check continuity, touch one lead to the white pin on the cartridge and the other end to the pin on the white RCA connector. Then do the same for Blue pin on cartridge to white RCA outer ring, red pin to red RCA pin, and green pin to red RCA ring. You should get continuity each time.
 
Did you do this yet?
If you have something to check continuity, touch one lead to the white pin on the cartridge and the other end to the pin on the white RCA connector. Then do the same for Blue pin on cartridge to white RCA outer ring, red pin to red RCA pin, and green pin to red RCA ring. You should get continuity each time.
If your TA-E80ES is mint and un-modified original stock and you want to sell it holler at me I might want to buy it or trade for something I may have that interests you in Sony ES.
 
So this is my first post, and the issue I've been having is actually what drove me to create this account. I have an ATLP120 that I bought in January. . .
Having just purchased the turntable in January, can't you take it to your dealer for help? When you said the headshell became loose, does that mean that the headshell locking ring is somehow unscrewing itself, leaving the headshell loose in its fitting? I haven't had a turntable with a removable headshell for a few years, but that does seem odd behavior.
 
Did you do this yet?
If you have something to check continuity, touch one lead to the white pin on the cartridge and the other end to the pin on the white RCA connector. Then do the same for Blue pin on cartridge to white RCA outer ring, red pin to red RCA pin, and green pin to red RCA ring. You should get continuity each time.

I dd do this. I get continuity each time.
 
Having just purchased the turntable in January, can't you take it to your dealer for help? When you said the headshell became loose, does that mean that the headshell locking ring is somehow unscrewing itself, leaving the headshell loose in its fitting? I haven't had a turntable with a removable headshell for a few years, but that does seem odd behavior.

I purchased it off of Amazon. Yes, I meant that the locking ring somehow became loose. I have removed the headshell previously since I bought it because I had to replace the stylus.
 
I purchased it off of Amazon. Yes, I meant that the locking ring somehow became loose. I have removed the headshell previously since I bought it because I had to replace the stylus.
Is it possible that your turntable was a re-packaged product? The screw which keeps the locking ring in place would only be loose if someone loosened it to set azimuth and that is very difficult to do unless a special Phillips Head Key is used. Also, if the screw is removed instead of just loosened a bit, the screw is even more difficult to get back in place. This makes me think someone screwed something up or partially broke wiring some place and sent the unit back. Also, since you replaced the stylus, did you fully engage it to the cartridge body?
 
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