• Please note that Audiokarma will be offline briefly for updates early on Monday morning, September 28th.

Help I need to talk to a plumber

Mark W.

Mark W.

Nut house of the Universe
I'm trying to install a new sink along with a new popup drain and I can't seam to figure out how to make it stop leaking.

I have a very high quality drain stainless and brass construction. But some how they expect a rubber washer to seal against threads and the underside of the sink. And I constantly get a drip coming through the threads where the locking nut that pushes against the rubber washer/donut thing is. I tried Teflon taping the threads but that didn't work.

I'm about to have a stroke over this damn sink anyone got any helpful suggestions or experience.
 
Register to hide this ad
Did you put plumber's putty under the drain lip to seal it against the sink? It squishes out as you compress the locknut from underneath. Wipe away the excess and let it cure.
 
not a plumber here either, but maybe the putty and then an outer seal w/ a silicone caulk or similar?
 
Don't have a stroke:no: Get the putty its good stuff.We use it at the plant where I work all the time.:yes:
 
Well, I'm not a plumber, but that never stopped me from trying to destroy my house. I had the same problem and the cause in my situation was using the wrong sized washer donut thing. I used the one that came with the drain pipe I bought at Home Depot, but the sink required a smaller one. I had to go to an old fashioned hardware store (Home Depot actually sent me there) to get the correct size to fit accurately into the drain hole in the sink. It only took me 2 months and every conceivable sealant (including plumber's putty) until I wandered back into HD and asked someone who by chance gave me the correct answer. I hope this is your problem, because it is easy to fix.
 
A snake (remember making play-doh snakes in grade school?) of plumbers putty under the metal lip of the pop-up flange, then install the unit with the rubber gasket underneath the sink. Tightening the nut snugly will then cause the putty to squeeze out from under the pop-up's lip leaving a small amount that creates a very long lasting and secure seal.
 
fotno said:
A snake (remember making play-doh snakes in grade school?) of plumbers putty under the metal lip of the pop-up flange, then install the unit with the rubber gasket underneath the sink. Tightening the nut snugly will then cause the putty to squeeze out from under the pop-up's lip leaving a small amount that creates a very long lasting and secure seal.
Click to expand...

That's it.

I've done many sinks and faucet sets. The washer under the sink will not stop water from leaking around the top flange of the pop-up, that is the metal edge that you're looking at when you stand and look down into the sink. You need to take it back out, put a rope of putty underneath the part that sits inside the bottom of the sink. Then, when you tighten the nut and washer from underneath the sink, it pulls the flange down, squishes the putty out, and forms a watertight seal. You simply wipe away the excess, and you're good to go.
 
hakaplan said:
Well, I'm not a plumber, but that never stopped me from trying to destroy my house. I had the same problem and the cause in my situation was using the wrong sized washer donut thing. I used the one that came with the drain pipe I bought at Home Depot, but the sink required a smaller one. I had to go to an old fashioned hardware store (Home Depot actually sent me there) to get the correct size to fit accurately into the drain hole in the sink. It only took me 2 months and every conceivable sealant (including plumber's putty) until I wandered back into HD and asked someone who by chance gave me the correct answer. I hope this is your problem, because it is easy to fix.
Click to expand...

Sorry for the post whore thread, but the first line of your statement had me laughing out loud.

Evan

Plumbers putty for the win!
 
Actually, yes you need plumbers putty inside the sink between it and the flange, but unless the rubber washer/donut is the correct, it will still leak.
 
Mark, if the putty under the lip does not cure this, you may need a slip washer between the rubber seal and the nut.

Sometimes the nut will bind the rubber seal and make it "lift" in a spot or two.

The washer can be a piece of cereal box (find one with a glossy finish) cut just slightly larger than the nut outside, and snug inside. Put the glossy side toward the nut. It will let it slip across the rubber as you tighten it up.

Good Luck!
 
Fisherdude said:
That's it.

I've done many sinks and faucet sets. The washer under the sink will not stop water from leaking around the top flange of the pop-up, that is the metal edge that you're looking at when you stand and look down into the sink. You need to take it back out, put a rope of putty underneath the part that sits inside the bottom of the sink. Then, when you tighten the nut and washer from underneath the sink, it pulls the flange down, squishes the putty out, and forms a watertight seal. You simply wipe away the excess, and you're good to go.
Click to expand...

Actually, wouldn't the rubber seal go on the inside part of the sink? Between the flange of the drain and the inside of the sink?

Sounds like he's got the rubber seal underneath the sink, it won't do any good there.

???

bs
 
bshorey said:
Actually, wouldn't the rubber seal go on the inside part of the sink? Between the flange of the drain and the inside of the sink?

Sounds like he's got the rubber seal underneath the sink, it won't do any good there.

???

bs
Click to expand...

He's got it in the right place. Plumber's putty is the appropriate sealant for the drain flange-to-sink interface. :)
 
The rubber gaskets fit under the sink, not on top. I don't know how many plumbing service calls I've been on ("OMG, there's water everywhere!") where a home owner had installed the rubber gasket on top of the lavatory or kitchen sink. That's what they sell plumber's putty for. The only time you don't want to use putty is when you're installing a drain on marble, the oils from the putty as it cures will stain it.

Oz has a good point about using a paper slip washer. They usually include them with kitchens sink baskets, not so much with pop-ups or chain drains for lavatories.
 
OK an explaination: First I do have Plumbers putty under the little flange in the sink. That is not where it's leaking. This sink has an over flow drain that is a hole in the sink bowl about 2" below the top edge. this then drains into two hole cut into the sides of the Popup drain body inside the two layers of the sink. this is where the water is getting out of the drain tube. And dripping through the threads.

from the bottom I have a brass flanged nut then thin rubber washer then a heavy tapered rubber washer. The tapper washer goes into the hole on the bottom of the sink seemingly Ok but does not seal tight against the threads.

The brass version of this I had yesterday had a nylon washer under the tapered rubber washer. I will try that tomorrow evening. I might also try some plumbers putty on the threads.

I realize sometimes I'm way to smart for my own good but this is about as stupid of a design as any 3rd grader could come up with. I guess I'll have a go at it tomorrow after work.
 
Mark W. said:
The tapper washer goes into the hole on the bottom of the sink seemingly Ok but does not seal tight against the threads.
Click to expand...
Then the Sink and washer are not a good mate - you need a different washer. Plumbers putty on the threads will be a short-term patch.
 
If it is something as simple as the threads leaking then teflon tape or plumber's dope applied generously on the threads should take care of it.
 
pioneervato said:
If it is something as simple as the threads leaking then teflon tape or plumber's dope applied generously on the threads should take care of it.
Click to expand...
The rubber seal should take care of the leaks - the washer is not designed to be water tight.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom