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Help My Capacitor Education

Recapping involves changing all of the electrolytic caps throughout the unit.

Many people choose to heave the original power supply filter caps (the big suckers) in place uness they exhibit problems (as yours do). However, a thorough recap should really involve the replacement of these caps too.

ah, okay. so basically it's exactly opposite of what I was thinking. Damn, that's a lot of capacitors and even more soldering. i guess capacitors aren't too expensive when they're 30uf and 16v.
 
ah, okay. so basically it's exactly opposite of what I was thinking. Damn, that's a lot of capacitors and even more soldering. i guess capacitors aren't too expensive when they're 30uf and 16v.

You can take Elna Silmic II, full RFS series available at Digikey (see page 2), for recapping all 'lytics outside the power supply cap. These are made in the USA, if that would be a concern....

40mm power supply cap: Nichicon KG series. There is a 10.000uF / 63V, 40(d)x80(h), which seems to be a perfect replacement for your amp. Example here.
 

Attachments

The proper caps to use to replace those large power supply jobs are Nichicon KG Gold, 10,000µf 63V, 40mm dia. x 83mm length. About $14 each + shipping and handling from Michael Percy Audio or Parts Connexion.
 
Just FYI: Caps this old physically cannot "leak", because there is no fluid left in them. They can do other bad things, though. And certainly "leak" voltage, which is extremely bad.
 
You can take Elna Silmic II, full RFS series available at Digikey (see page 2), for recapping all 'lytics outside the power supply cap. These are made in the USA, if that would be a concern....

40mm power supply cap: Nichicon KG series. There is a 10.000uF / 63V, 40(d)x80(h), which seems to be a perfect replacement for your amp. Example here.

Thanks for the .pdf! I do foresee a complete recap sometime in the future, but probably not this time around.

I picked up some Rubycon caps rated at 10,000uf and 63V. They are slightly smaller in size, so I'll modify the bracket that holds them in place.
 
Thanks for the .pdf! I do foresee a complete recap sometime in the future, but probably not this time around.

I picked up some Rubycon caps rated at 10,000uf and 63V. They are slightly smaller in size, so I'll modify the bracket that holds them in place.

Well, when you do the recap you can also order the Nichicons and test the difference with the Rubycons (before recapping the rest). That's how get to know about caps :yes:

enjoy the work
 
I take it there is no such thing as NOS capacitors?

Why hasn't anybody tried to make better capacitors than the junk coming out of China? You would think the guitar amp,and professional recording market would be enough to keep such a company in business.
 
I take it there is no such thing as NOS capacitors?
Yes, there is a surprisingly large market for "NOS" caps, fueled by the guitar market you mention, and largely made up of caps that do not age well, thus making it a bit absurd. The thing about the guitar/instrument market, though, is it doesn't really matter in what stupid way you got the sound you wanted, if you got it.
Why hasn't anybody tried to make better capacitors than the junk coming out of China? You would think the guitar amp,and professional recording market would be enough to keep such a company in business.
The best capacitors ever made are being made right now. Some, no doubt, in China. There is absolutely no problem involving a lack of good capacitors.
 
Whereas the unknown stuff from Flung Dong Capacitor Factory #2...not so much.

Someone correct me if I'm off base.

Maybe you meant to say wu flung dung capacitor company...Although there may be a Flung Dong as well....

This is an interesting topic/idea. As our old stuff gets older, we are all going to have to go through this process whether we decide to DIY, or send it out to someone who is better suited. I am curious if there is such a database we can assemble for each unit that we do. i.e. this guy is doing X receiver and has replaced them with this part number purchased from X location. As long as its not Flung Dong company.
 
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Update.

I've replaced original 10,000uf 63v Rubycon power supply caps with Rubycon 10,000uf 63v replacements. They were smaller in diameter, so I shimmed them with cardboard strips (cut from a cereal box) as you can see in the pics.

I also took some soapy water to the faceplate, and created a bit of damage to the input selector labels as you can see. The lettering appears to be decals vs paint, which i did not realize until too late.

Oh well, better whip out the sharpie?

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and the lettering before/after :thumbsdn:
Lettering-1.JPG

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I've still got some work ahead of me before this baby is singing, but progress is moving gradually in the right direction. And most of all, i'm learning and having a good time along the way.
 
Nobody can ever say you don't have your hook in the water, even if it was soapy! Nice job. It wil pay you back every time you listen.

Thanks for the pics.

Enjoy - - -
 
Nobody can ever say you don't have your hook in the water, even if it was soapy! Nice job. It wil pay you back every time you listen.

Thanks for the pics.

Enjoy - - -

HA! thanks Ghazzer! Great pun. Looking forward to the MCS's 2nd life.
 
Nice work on the caps, certainly looks like there was room to go up on the capacitance, even by about 50%, assuming the rectifiers were up to it.

As for the lettering, shame, those decals look goofy in the after shot.

However, consider getting some lettering decals, used to be available at stationery stores, model/hobby shops, and art supply houses, maybe even craft stores like Michaels.

I think they used to be called Letraset or something like that.

http://www.letraset.com/products/91-Lettering/

In some electronics stores like Fry's, and way back when, the lettering sets also came in technical wording with audio being part of it too.

Datamark still has some lettering, this is the only link I found:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...8NCeDQ&usg=AFQjCNE-uU180kSAzQfOEyM25jOH6MK5pg
 
Nice work on the caps, certainly looks like there was room to go up on the capacitance, even by about 50%, assuming the rectifiers were up to it.

As for the lettering, shame, those decals look goofy in the after shot.

However, consider getting some lettering decals, used to be available at stationery stores, model/hobby shops, and art supply houses, maybe even craft stores like Michaels.

I think they used to be called Letraset or something like that.

http://www.letraset.com/products/91-Lettering/

In some electronics stores like Fry's, and way back when, the lettering sets also came in technical wording with audio being part of it too.

Datamark still has some lettering, this is the only link I found:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...8NCeDQ&usg=AFQjCNE-uU180kSAzQfOEyM25jOH6MK5pg

I have to say that the thought of more capacitance did cross my mind more than a few times. Though, being brand new to this, I didn't want to blow anything up just yet. How would I check if the rectifiers can handle the jump in capacitance? Some people have outlined the benefits of increased power supply capacitance earlier in the thread so I have to say my interest is peaked... And It isn't really a big job to swap them out, now that I've done it once.

As far as the lettering is concerned, THANKS! These resources are great! I didn't even think to visit my local hobby shop for lettering options. I was pretty bummed to see only the "M" of "AM", and "N" of "PHONO 1" was all I had left of that.
 
Upon further inspection, I have found a few more caps that look like they need to be replaced asap. The caps are mounted on the bottom, and looks like they leaked all over themselves.

Is there something I should or shouldn't use to clean the leakage off of the boards?

Pics for fun :boink:
I was watching My Cousin Vinnie while goofing around with the MCS. "the two yutes!"

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Glue, not leakage. Those small caps don't really contain enough paste to leak and cause damage. But they do dry out and commonly need replacing.
 
Glue, not leakage. Those small caps don't really contain enough paste to leak and cause damage. But they do dry out and commonly need replacing.

Oh that's glue!!! Not the cleanest glue job I've ever seen, but I'm much happier that it wasn't another capacitor leaking.
 
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