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HELP!! Teac 6010 Pinch Roller Arm Removal

Y

yuraway

New Member
I have that classic problem of a stick/sluggish pinch roller. I want to remove the pinch roller arm and clean it and re-lube it. The photo shows how far I have gotten with the tear down. I have read many other threads about this issue and none of them seem to outline how to remove it. I have:
1. put penetrating oil on it
2. pulled up on it
3. heated it (somewhat)
4. yanked on it (as hard as I dared too)
5. swore at it

What am I missing? Is there more tear down to do? The screw in the center moves with the arm, not independent of it, so I assumed it has nothing to do with its removal (not to mention I already tried to turn it and it doesn't budge. What now? Thanks!!

p.s. IF there is a thread that outlines clearly how to fix this problem, PLEASE post the link!!
 

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I had a neighbor with the 6010. Had a similar problem I repaired for him. After looking at the deck for the entire evening, the mechanism looked too fragile to use force (never use force as parts for these decks will be difficult to source) getting the assembly out to relube. IIRC, two wrenches were needed to remove the Roller assembly.
He had to get a copy of the Service Manual. I would suggest you download the manual as well.
 
Thanks for the quick response! I have the Service Manual and a high resolution exploded parts diagram of it also. The service manual does not reference how to remove the arm. The diagram shows the center screw going through the center of the arm itself, and that's about it. Are you suggesting removing the whole assembly? If so, how does that help? Is there a better way to remove the arm that is only visible on the other side of the assembly? The parts diagram certainly doesn't show it.
 
You're welcome.
Can you post the diagram?
That would be a great help. It's been 29 years since I worked on the 6010.
 
yuraway,
Looking at your diagram and from memory, it appears that the 2 nuts (#8 & #10) are the nuts required to remove the pinch roller assembly along with the spring and associated parts. Please note that removing these nuts will make Pinch Roller adjustment necessary after repair & reassembly.
For roller adjustment you'll need a tension meter with the proper torque scale.
A good idea would be to Google Teac 6010 Pinch Roller adjustment.

BTW. Where are you located?
 
The picture I uploaded shows that I have already removed those parts from the shaft. It is not attached to anything except the darn pivot point!
 
You can always try spraying WD-40 down the roller shaft. That might free the dried grease. Worth a try.:thumbsup:
 
Place deck upright on its feet. Remove screw in the center pivot. Get a BIC or such cig lighter. Dial the flame down and apply heat directl to the center pivot working it fairly slowly back and forth. THIS WILL WORK !! It takes 20-30 seconds depending on how bad it is. It is GOOD you didn't unscrew the linkage - looks like you 'simply' disconnected the coupling link. Smart ! No recalibrating needed !!

Also see: http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/help-with-teac-a-6010-pinch-roller-arm.504983/
 
...or a fireplace or BBQ lighter make it easier... DON'T TOUCH w/fingers use gloves !! or 'something'
 
I should remove the screw on the top of the pivot point? I tried and it is also stuck. I'll give it another try. Thanks!
 
Yes ! It's a Philips right? Fit the screw driver into the screw, while bearing down SLIGHTLY, turn to 'engage' the driver tip; now push down REAL HARD maintaining the twist - do not let driver tip come loose !!! With full strength twist HARD while pressing down HARD. In the unlikely event this doesn't free the screw, tap on it <<<gently>>> with a brass/bronze hammer 40-50 times! Try the screwdriver again. Last resort is to use a pair of pliers of the correct size and jaw type. The jaws should be clean, sharp and not deformed. If you have a screwdriver with a bolster - use it !! Where do you live??
 
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It's not a Philips head. I live in Grand Rapids Michigan. I'm going to try the hammer technique in an hour and I'll get back to you!
 
well, even if it's a slotted screw - use same basic technique: have blade fully 'engaged' before applying total grunt force.
 
Thanks for all the help! After I dared to REALLY reef on the screw it came loose! The arm came right out after that. Now onto the brakes!
 
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