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Help - Thorens TD 165 Cartridge

4HeadGoose

New Member
Hello all!

I'm new to the forum and I just purchased a Thorens TD 165. The cartridge on this unit is an older Shure M75 Type 2. What would be a good cartridge for this unit for around $100? Or should I just keep the cartridge and replace the stylus? The tonearm is the stock TP 11-I. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 

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Exactly, but Ortofon does offer them in a version for mounting from below. Look for the Verso designation.

Alternatively, you can modify the headshell. It doesn’t require permanent changes. Search the forum for the instructions. Or get a reproduction headshell with mounting slots, easily found on eBay.

But really, the Shure is a nice little period-correct cartridge worth getting a new stylus for. Originals are no longer being made but still out there and not too expensive. Generics are also a real option here. For some reason Shure styli are easier to copy than many others. Jico in particular has a great reputation.
 
You could honestly do a lot worse than the M75. I'm running it's sibling the M93E on my TD-160, but its running the stylus your M75 takes.
 
I upped my game on my thorens with a rega arm. Not playing much vinyl these days with lossless streaming and a nice dac tho .
I don’t know y my dang pictures always turn sideways when I upload them ! Annoying!
 

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Op, congrats on the Thorens! I've had mine for 43 yrs. already for good reason. It is a consistent and dependable table, and when set up properly its a keeper. That TP II is considered a heavier arm at 16.5 gr., and as such will allow you to upgrade to low or medium compliance LOMC cartridges if you so choose.

I did the headshell mod with a spare to accommodate top down screw in. It worked out very well. I used the Denon screws that came with the cart as Thorens screws are slightly smaller. I'm pretty sure the Ortofon will require non Thorens sized screws.

From what I can see the previous owner played around with it. They swapped out the RCA plugs and the tone arm platform is askew to one side which may be the result of improper spring adjustments at some point or something else, but it needs to be adjusted and leveled. Then VTA and VTF. It also looks to be missing the anti-skate weights, unless they're just not pictured.

Before diving in I would highly recommend downloading the original Thorens 165 manual which will show you how to properly set up the arm, as well as perform all the required cleaning and oiling. A new, OEM Thorens belt is in order too. Dave from Vinyl Nirvana has a great site https://vinylnirvana.com/
as well as several YouTube set up videos that would be very helpful to you.

Here's an invaluable site to pore over: https://www.theanalogdept.com/thorens_dept_.htm

Treat this bird right and she will fly!
 
Op, congrats on the Thorens! I've had mine for 43 yrs. already for good reason. It is a consistent and dependable table, and when set up properly its a keeper. That TP II is considered a heavier arm at 16.5 gr., and as such will allow you to upgrade to low or medium compliance LOMC cartridges if you so choose.

I did the headshell mod with a spare to accommodate top down screw in. It worked out very well. I used the Denon screws that came with the cart as Thorens screws are slightly smaller. I'm pretty sure the Ortofon will require non Thorens sized screws.

From what I can see the previous owner played around with it. They swapped out the RCA plugs and the tone arm platform is askew to one side which may be the result of improper spring adjustments at some point or something else, but it needs to be adjusted and leveled. Then VTA and VTF. It also looks to be missing the anti-skate weights, unless they're just not pictured.

Before diving in I would highly recommend downloading the original Thorens 165 manual which will show you how to properly set up the arm, as well as perform all the required cleaning and oiling. A new, OEM Thorens belt is in order too. Dave from Vinyl Nirvana has a great site https://vinylnirvana.com/
as well as several YouTube set up videos that would be very helpful to you.

Here's an invaluable site to pore over: https://www.theanalogdept.com/thorens_dept_.htm

Treat this bird right and she will fly!

Thank you so much for the detailed response. Luckily the anti skate weight was there and I bought it as a professionally refurbished unit so belt is new, oiled, etc. There was a mishap when I lowered the Shure cartridge down onto my record after getting it all set up and the cantilever fell out.. sigh. Luckily with the information above I modded it to hold my Empire cartridge from my previous Thorens (TD 280). The seller is graciously sending me a replacement stylus but she sounds great already! Will upgrade to a different cartridge eventually, once I decide which to go for.
 
Happy to help and that's very nice of the seller. I would still look into arm, platform and spring setup as the gap and lean of the platform just doesn't look right.

Enjoy!
 
Happy to help and that's very nice of the seller. I would still look into arm, platform and spring setup as the gap and lean of the platform just doesn't look right.

Enjoy!
Any tips or guides to correct the lean? It doesn’t lean until I put the metal platter on it. I’m fairly new to turntable repair and don’t want to mess something up. Thanks in advance!
 
Any tips or guides to correct the lean? It doesn’t lean until I put the metal platter on it. I’m fairly new to turntable repair and don’t want to mess something up. Thanks in advance!

You need to remove the base board off the plinth and have access to the inner belly of the turntable from below in it's "natural" horizontal position. This either way by having it stand on bases/feet (cans, boxes of even height) or between two tables and working from below.

So as for everything you'll do, before manipulation of your turntable, remove the platter, belt, sub-platter, place a "blocker" in the bearing to save the inner oil, remove the headshell and lock the arm. Now check if the suspension from below is sitting 100% vertical.

If so, start to play with the bolts with the sub-platter and platter back on. The aim is with the turntable leveled (100%) to get the platter leveled (100%) to the top plate with a 5 to 7mm gap all around. The tonearm base should then settle 'right in place' on it's own.
 
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You could honestly do a lot worse than the M75. I'm running it's sibling the M93E on my TD-160, but its running the stylus your M75 takes.

How do you like that M93E on your TD-160? It came on a Pioneer PL12D I bought a few years ago. Still have it.
 
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