PastTechFan
Super Member
There's always GE "motor runs"!
I've recapped both my W60s and W90s with them. Very happy. Cheap & cheerful.
See: http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....blame-gang-twanger.551280/page-4#post-7228649
posts 64 to 70 etc.
Help with some Wharfedale W70s
- Thread starter Fishead
- Start date
There's always GE "motor runs"!
I've recapped both my W60s and W90s with them. Very happy. Cheap & cheerful.
See: http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....blame-gang-twanger.551280/page-4#post-7228649
posts 64 to 70 etc.
Thanks, PasTechFan, will head over there and have a look.....I searched the British thread and my head started to spin since I really know next to nothing about caps stuff. There are so many possibilities but one does need to know what acceptable values are, and that's where I'm not very knowledgeable. My present stock caps are 12uF, 50 VDC and I haven't a clue about what PIO cap values would be a match for my tweeter. The midrange does not appear to have any caps associated with it, but I could be wrong (posts 12 and 17).
Hey,
Your woofer and midrange are running wide open, no caps or coils. I was where you are not too terribly long ago and it can make your head spin so bad you just walk the other direction for a day or two. Any of the modern or vintage oil caps that have been suggested will work great with your speakers. The important thing do to is just order them and be done with that. That right there? That's the tough part. You got this! Go man go!
Biggles
Your woofer and midrange are running wide open, no caps or coils. I was where you are not too terribly long ago and it can make your head spin so bad you just walk the other direction for a day or two. Any of the modern or vintage oil caps that have been suggested will work great with your speakers. The important thing do to is just order them and be done with that. That right there? That's the tough part. You got this! Go man go!
Biggles
The TX pulls in stations very well and is a great cosmetic match for sure. only use it to listen to radio occasionally including some sports talk of course. Where i live has really bad FM signal unfortunately butteh 9100 does fine. I just recently had the SA recapped so she should be good to go for another generation if treated well.
Thanks, I needed that and glad you're an empath!!! Actually, still waiting for GT to chime in.....sent him a "conversation" (new term for PM I guess) but haven't had a reply. I'm sorta getting it though, need something with 4uF and anywhere from 250-1,000 VDC, preferably Russian KGB or US PCB, which I haven't found any of.....the GE motor runs also seem to have their fans (see PastTechFan above) as well. Holy smokes, I'm startin' to talk like I know what the heck I'm talkin' about.....that is definitely dangerous!!!
Seriously, thanks for all the help and I will definitely send progress reports. I'm so jazzed to have these and all the talk about how great they will sound makes me totally delirious! Wonder what amp I should be using with them? The Pioneer SA-9100 would be the most convenient, but I have another, earlier Pioneer as well, the QX-949. Guess I'll figure that one out along the way as well....
Drugolf, I'm in the same situation here in NM as you.....not really a ton of good stations, but a good friend of mine manages one and always asks me if I've been listening. Guess I'll be scopin' out a TX-9100 soon and, you're right, I've always thought that set looks very slick. Thought I had one found a while back but close inspection of the pics revealed far more wear and tear on the cabinet than I'm interested in. My is pristine, so I would want one to match up nicely. I'll just keep my eye out for one as they do turn up from time to time.
A very fine evening to all.....
Pssst, psssst. Hunker in close. I don't want anyone else to know a secret. You could buy any of the capacitors that anyone here has recommended to you and none of them are wrong. I run everything from non-polar electrolytics, metalized film, polypropylene, new motor run oil caps, vintage oil capacitors and much older oil capacitors that are just oozing with PCB's. They all sound great compared to what they replaced and none of them sound poor.
I haven't seen GT posting for a bit, not sure what the scoop is. He may be on vacation or taking a vacation from the internet. If he was perusing AK, he would have stopped by by about the first page or two. If you want to know what GT suggests for vintage Wharfedale capacitors, just read any Wharfedale thread here. He's laid down his recommendations for capacitors hundreds of times already.
Biggles
I haven't seen GT posting for a bit, not sure what the scoop is. He may be on vacation or taking a vacation from the internet. If he was perusing AK, he would have stopped by by about the first page or two. If you want to know what GT suggests for vintage Wharfedale capacitors, just read any Wharfedale thread here. He's laid down his recommendations for capacitors hundreds of times already.
Biggles
However, I notice that many are using the 4uF caps replacing the original 12uF ones. What's up with that? Just still very confusing, and I have read many of GT's posts and he alludes to using 4uF in place of the 12uF caps???
bce22
Active Member
Hi Fishead,
Definitely don't start changing the capacitance values. Keep them the same for sure.
As an example of what's available in 12uF cap value, the gentleman I purchased my capacitors from (8uF PIOs) for my W90s sells them on fleabay. They are NOS Russian caps. His username is alexer1 (no affiliation ). If you search for 12uF PIO you will see them. They cost $7.16 each, but shipping is $18.
Good luck and if you have any questions just keep asking!
Regards,
Brad
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I've got 4uF in my early W70's and 12uF in my earlier W60s (not a super 3). 4uF is the ubiquitous value that was used in early crossovers. I'll be moving over to a 6uF for my W70's once I build the new crossover and install the guts into a 5.3 cubic foot cabinet.
Biggles
Biggles
Brad, that's what I needed, and I will look him up! Thanks!
bce22
Active Member
Cool! Definitely consider the KGB 4uF caps. It'll be slightly more difficult to wire them up and fit them in the W70's but they are better than the first ones I mentioned. They are 5% rather than 10 which is better. This number is the error percentage off of the capacitance value. Either way I think you'll be happy.
Good advice.....I'll definitely keep that in mind. Thanks again, I'm like a "fishead out of water" on this.....
El Cavano
Active Member
I'm chiming in just in the spirit of information sharing. Not intentionally hijacking this thread. Pulled the trigger on 4MF 250V caps this morning from Parts Express - Dayton 1%. Can't wait to hear them
Other W70 observations
-> The isolation box on my speakers is really fused to the baffle. Took out all bolts and the thing would not budge. Gave up before breaking anything
-> Using a flashlight to inspect the tweeter - definitely no purple dome
-> Did spot an odd marking on the Woofer (see attached pic). Any one have any ideas what this means?
Other W70 observations
-> The isolation box on my speakers is really fused to the baffle. Took out all bolts and the thing would not budge. Gave up before breaking anything
-> Using a flashlight to inspect the tweeter - definitely no purple dome
-> Did spot an odd marking on the Woofer (see attached pic). Any one have any ideas what this means?
Attachments
PastTechFan
Super Member
My W60 tweeter box came away easily (after I removed the putty goop at the wiring hole). Had a very thin green felt seal where it was screwed to the baffle.
I've seen that marking on most of my 12" woofers. Assume it refers to the speaker model. Some internal code?