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Homemade Acoustic Panels

thebeez85

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Im in the planning process for building some acoustic panels for recording in my spare bedroom. probably 2' x 4' frames of pine filled with some sort of batting or what-not. What would be a good filler to use for knockin down some echo and room reverb? :scratch2: saw dust? cotton balls? cat hair? got plenty of that laying around..

also, probably gonna cover the front with something similar to grill cloth..
but what about the back? should I cover it with cloth too or something dense? which would offer more versatility? perhaps I could cover the back with cloth and make a detachable plywood back for it...ideas?
 
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There are plenty of threads on this, but an insulation product by the name of Roxul Safe 'n Sound is probably your best bet. Home Depot stocks it, and I think Lowes does now too. The batts of it are about as thick as a 2x4 is tall, so it's perfect. Cut it to fit your frame, then use spray adhesive to hold it in place.

I didn't cover the back of my panels. Why would you? Won't they be against a wall? I used some cheap off-white muslin fabric to cover mine.
 
There is a hole area for this. It is Listening Space. The first thread there is all references. Check it out.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=435269

Killing reflections and echo is easy to do. Killing standing waves in the bass regions take a bit more work.

But, panels made with Safe and Sound or Owens Corning 703 will kill both.

You don't need anything on the back of the panels.
 
No problem. you may want to move your thread to the Listening Space. You might get more responses.
 
egg cartons work
No. I hope to see this idea driven from AK one day. It's false internet wisdom and it's not helping anyone.

Roxul Safe n Sound is mineral wool (rock wool) batting that suits the same purpose as regular old fiberglass batt insulation, but it's nicer to handle (no itchies) and it does have slightly better acoustical properties. That's a good suggestion.

Semi rigid acoustic fiberglass, like OC703, would work better acoustically and holds its shape well, but it's more expensive and a little harder to get.
 
(...)What would be a good filler to use for knockin down some echo and room reverb? :scratch2:

(...) what about the back? should I cover it with cloth too or something dense? which would offer more versatility? perhaps I could cover the back with cloth and make a detachable plywood back for it...ideas?

If all you want to do is absorb frequencies above 4khz, then rock wool or Owens Corning 700 series raw panels/filler are the way to go. And for absorbing frequencies in this range 4khz and above, a closed-back is all you need.

If, OTOH, you want to control bass frequencies, they literally need to be trapped (hence the name "bass traps"). Bass traps need to be open-backed and mounted with space between them and the wall. Bass energy moves through them (diminishing on the way through), they reflect off the wall behind, and get totally (hopefully) absorbed on the second pass.

By far, the best online source for DIY acoustic materials is ATS Acoustics. They will even sell you a big box of rock wool scraps cheap. And they do sell single raw panels, but you've gotta dig for the link; I think it's in the item description for specific products.

http://www.atsacoustics.com/cat--DIY-Acoustic-Materials--102.html
 
Thanks Brett and Revman! I will take everything into consideration..

anyone ever use pegboard for the front of their panels? or is that counter-intuituve?
 
If all you want to do is absorb frequencies above 4khz, then rock wool or Owens Corning 700 series raw panels/filler are the way to go. And for absorbing frequencies in this range 4khz and above, a closed-back is all you need.
What makes you think that these panels are only effective above 4 kHz??? There's plenty of data available that shows a 3.5" panel made with rock wool or batt fiberglass has a very high alpha down through the 250-Hz band.
 
anyone ever use pegboard for the front of their panels? or is that counter-intuituve?
This is not unusual at all. The regular pegboard you buy to hang your tools on probably doesn't have large enough holes to work well in this case, but there are products with larger/more holes that are effectively acoustically transparent.
 
What makes you think that these panels are only effective above 4 kHz??? There's plenty of data available that shows a 3.5" panel made with rock wool or batt fiberglass has a very high alpha down through the 250-Hz band.

so, It'll help with first refelctions from ~250Hz through ~4Hz?...
 
so, It'll help with first refelctions from ~250Hz through ~4Hz?...
And above.

It's also effective below 250 Hz, just not as effective as it is above.

When you're dealing with a pure absorber, like the panels we're talking about, the absorption effectiveness tapers off as you reach lower frequencies because of the relationship between the wavelength and the thickness of the absorber. 4 kHz is a pretty high frequency, anyway. A lot of people can't hear all of the frequencies in the 8 kHz octave band, which has an upper limit above 11 kHz.
 
ah, so that set-up (in panels 2'x4') would help make my room not acoustically dead but ,erm... acoustically not dead yet? lol
 
What makes you think that these panels are only effective above 4 kHz??? There's plenty of data available that shows a 3.5" panel made with rock wool or batt fiberglass has a very high alpha down through the 250-Hz band.
I looked at the PDF that Owens Corning supplies for their 700 series panels and read the coefficients chart.
Doh!

I read the damn chart backwards, sorry. It looks like they absorb about 33% around 250 cps and the effectiveness drops off below that, and drops off again above 7khz.

Here's a useful chart as a token of my humility:

http://www.bobgolds.com/AbsorptionCoefficients.htm
 
ah, so that set-up (in panels 2'x4') would help make my room not acoustically dead but ,erm... acoustically not dead yet? lol
Make sure you don't confuse the concept of absorbing first reflections with the concept of deadening the room.

Stopping a first reflection reduces the confusion your ears have when they can't locate the source (your speaker) easily. You don't really need to worry about doing this in low frequencies because we get most of our information on location in ranges where the wavelengths are smaller than our heads (~1 kHz and up). "First reflections" are sounds that only bounce once before reaching our ears. They get there soon enough that our ear can't separate them from the original sound, so the true direction of the sound's origin becomes unclear. We address this by placing absorbers at the places where a sound can leave a speaker, bounce once, and arrive at your ear.

Any given sound wave will bounce around your room a bunch of times, passing by your ear on some of its trips. This is the "live" or reverberant effect and it can be a good thing, as it can reinforce the original sound, making it sound stronger. But as a sound is "stretched out" in this way you lose clarity, as notes and instruments overlap more.

Absorbers placed around your room reduce the amplitude of sound waves as they bounce, making them die off quicker. Where you put them is important but not critical, as sound travels very quickly and each wave will make a lot of reflections in different places before it dies off. We like to put absorbers meant to attack bass frequencies in corners because bass notes do more of a "sloshing" around the room, as their wavelengths are large with respect to a room's dimensions. Corners are places where 2 (or 3) boundaries meet, meaning you can affect reflections in multiple directions simultaneously.

How live or dead you want your room is a matter of personal preference. Some people like live rooms because they feel surrounded by the music. Others, like me, like dead rooms because of the increased clarity and separation between instruments.
 
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