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How Do They Compare? JBL AR etc

Nucities

Nucities

Active Member
I am currently running my Sony STR 7065 through a pair of Sonab OA-12s. I tried them through a set of Marantz Imperial 5s and wasn't happy with the combo. The base gets muddy, not clear or as tight as I would like. It sounds better with the Sonabs but I still feel like there is a better match for the receiver.

I'm currently looking at a pair of AR 2ax and a pair of JBL Type C56 LE-12s Does anyone have any experience with either of those and or care to comment on how those might match with the Sony? The JBLs would set me back a few hundred bucks more...are they worth it? I've never heard them.

Thanks
 
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I like my 2ax quite a bit. Not on the same level as the 3's etc, but very nice. Of the speakers you have mentioned, the AR's will not have much sparkle on the high end but my guess is that they will be superior in the mids and beautiful imaging. May need work though since they are older.
If you can get them for a good price, I would not hesitate. You can try them and pass them on easily enough if they don't suit you needs.
 
Thanks for the reply...I guess what I'd really like to know is if the AR2ax are more like the Marantz than the Sonab? My hunch is that they are. Same question on the JBL.
 
Probably, but in a different league. I am not familiar with the Sony Receiver so I am speaking solely from my understanding of the AR type sound.
 
I like the AR2ax but a different sound then from a ported speaker. Plus if not done the pots will need cleaning and surrounds. I'd go for the C56's if all OEM.

Now the JBL SUCK! :DBut go ahead and tell me where they are........

Barney
 
This is somewhat of a blanket statement, but generally JBLs will be more forward in the mids and highs than vintage AR's. The AR's have great sound, very clear, not lacking in the high end, and the JBL's will be a bit crisper in the mids and highs, more forward. ARs are known for deep buttery base, in general, the east coast sound, you can listen for hours without fatigue. I'm not familiar with the Sony, so cannot comment on this.
 
This is what I was hoping for ...thank you all

The Sony STR 7065 sounds a lot like the Yamaha 1020 to my ear generally a more crisp clear sound with tight base; this is why the more muddy sound I was getting with the Marantz was a bit strange. It sounds good with the Sonabs great high end and mid but lacking a good punch in base. If I can get the ARs for a good price I may just bite anyway ... I'm sick like that
 
That's not a very good example of a vintage JBL.
I'm certain you can do better and, depending on the asking price, probably MUCH better.
 
Nucities said:
This is what I was hoping for ...thank you all

The Sony STR 7065 sounds a lot like the Yamaha 1020 to my ear generally a more crisp clear sound with tight base; this is why the more muddy sound I was getting with the Marantz was a bit strange. It sounds good with the Sonabs great high end and mid but lacking a good punch in base. If I can get the ARs for a good price I may just bite anyway ... I'm sick like that
Click to expand...

Yeah, you really can't hurt yourself with the AR's, especially if you get them for a good price. It would be a great way to get a feel for that style of sound. The 2ax where my first AR's (teak) and they hooked me on that style. Just make sure all drivers work. It may be hard to get to the drivers depending on how old that set is and how the grilles are attached. (staples/glue) Maybe take a paper towel tube to help listen to each of the 3 drivers. If there is no sound coming from any of them, play with the pots on back and see if they come and go or if you can find a spot where they stay on. If all drivers work, most other things are able to be addressed.

If you do not want a project, and they have scratchy pots etc. Don't buy them. Most are at a point that they need a little work, but it is worth it.

Good detailed info on them can be found over at ClassicSpeakerPages.
 
Drugolf said:
Yeah, you really can't hurt yourself with the AR's, especially if you get them for a good price. It would be a great way to get a feel for that style of sound. The 2ax where my first AR's (teak) and they hooked me on that style. Just make sure all drivers work. It may be hard to get to the drivers depending on how old that set is and how the grilles are attached. (staples/glue) Maybe take a paper towel tube to help listen to each of the 3 drivers. If there is no sound coming from any of them, play with the pots on back and see if they come and go or if you can find a spot where they stay on. If all drivers work, most other things are able to be addressed.

If you do not want a project, and they have scratchy pots etc. Don't buy them. Most are at a point that they need a little work, but it is worth it.

Good detailed info on them can be found over at ClassicSpeakerPages.
Click to expand...


Thanks again....this just got a bit more expensive. The 2ax were really beat but came across a pair of AR 3a on Craigslist yesterday. They are in good shape cosmetically (need refinishing but nothing major just need to be lightly sanded oiled etc.) the surrounds are shot etc. they want $400 for them. More than I was looking to spend but I'm thinking of swallowing hard and buying them. I figure if they don't work for me I could at least get my investment in the restoration back.
 
Cool!
About the right price and if anything low, but check on those same issues as stated above for the 2ax. If there are issues with the pots or drivers, see if you can get them to come down a bit.
I would go into 3a's thinking that once restored I could get at least $600 for them and possibly more depending on location and shipping etc. Other than your time invested in the work, the only thing that gets expensive is if drivers need to be replaced.
 
Going from the 2ax to the 3a is a big jump! That is a good price, and if any work is needed for the pots, caps etc, there's plenty of info and help available here, and over at the classicspeakerspages site including the great AR3 restoration guide.
 
You cannot go wrong with the AR sound - the products that company made are truly exceptional. BUT - any 30+ year old speaker is going to require some TLC - and some work. Pots? Almost certainly gone. Woofer surrounds? Need to be replaced. Crossover caps? You will get a better, brighter, more forward sound with the modern film caps.

The result however is well worth the effort and the cost. The AR will provide many, many hours of exceptional, fatigue free listening - and the bass - even on the 2-ax is nothing short of sensational. Imaging is incredible (AR built wide dispersion drivers). For the 2ax almost all the drivers are available on flea bay - for the 3 (not 3a) the midrange is rebuilt by Vintage AR - and the tweeters are sometimes available on the various websites - and from Vintage AR.

Good luck - don't get the JBL - those things, unless you get the "upper models" have some serious spectral imbalances. Very bright, shouting at you style speaker.
 
Hard to lose on AR or JBL of that generation. Hope you get the AR-3a and if you can swing it grab the C56 too :)

I have AR-3a and similar JBLs, the L55. :trebon:
 
Well...showed up to make an offer on the AR 3a and somebody beat me to them ....sold for $400. Oh well, on the plus side I found a great oginal pressing of Tom Waits Closing Time at the record store.
 
That's about the going rate for AR-3a that need work. I went all the way with caps and used Solen poly; costs ~$140 for all of them. If you go NPE for the big ones you can save some money. The foam kit from Vintage AR is in the 20s (dollars). The pots and cosmetics are more about time and labor than parts/supplies. So you can be into them for ~$600 and have a pair of speakers which, in that fully restored condition, might fetch $800-1200. But you probably won't want to sell them.

If drivers or pots need to be replaced, we're in a different league. The thing is, it can be very tough to tell if the drivers are good if the pots are bad. I pretty much had to move the pots around slowly, quickly, push in, pull out, with my ear right on the driver to get faint signs of life. But you can get creative with fixing the pots. The discs can be built up with solder, as can the tips of the wipers. If the wipers are broken, like the arm is broken/rusted off or the ring is broken, you might be out of luck. Bottom line, if you wind up doing the full L-pad and tweeter upgrade...

...nevermind, just saw that they sold... serves me right for eating dinner and putting the kids to bed in the middle of typing...

All of the above applies to the 2ax, with the exception of the dollar amounts. Much more affordable entry point and caps, surrounds are in the same ballpark. The bass won't be as life-altering as the 3a, but still quite nice. You might even prefer the balance. Looking at $250-300 invested for speakers you'll likely keep. If you've heard that they're a bit laid back, all I can say is that with the pots maxed out, they're brighter than I find tolerable. At the "Normal" position, they're perfect. Don't let those slip through your fingers! Also, tweeters seem less prone to failure than in the 3a, and the pots seem to survive better even though they're the same parts.
 
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