• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

How many WIMA films can you stuff on a Tone Board?

Lavane said:
The two 1060's I restored, I put a few on the back side of the line stage and amp board due to short leads. But there was plenty of space to do so.
Click to expand...
The 1060s and 2230s (as well as 2245 and 2270) I am giving preference to bipolar (nichicon or elna if I can find them) but on top of that I replace ALL ceramics in the signal path (all in the pot tone board and some in the amp board feedback path) with C0G and to my ears it sounds crystal clear without any harshness. I also tend to keep the brown beauties and the large brown mylar in the amp board (2245/2270) unless I have mundorfs or sollens. WIMA or ECWs are not as good, IMO.
 
ocdecio said:
The 1060s and 2230s (as well as 2245 and 2270) I am giving preference to bipolar (nichicon or elna if I can find them) but on top of that I replace ALL ceramics in the signal path (all in the pot tone board and some in the amp board feedback path) with C0G and to my ears it sounds crystal clear without any harshness. I also tend to keep the brown beauties and the large brown mylar in the amp board (2245/2270) unless I have mundorfs or sollens. WIMA or ECWs are not as good, IMO.
Click to expand...
The C0G's are a great sub for the ceramics. I tried some Mundorf and Solen caps in the 1060, but to my ears it changed the house sound that I liked in the first place. With the two 1060's I had, I replaced the diodes in the power supply with low noise super fast switching types and upped the cap values in some of the caps in the power supply along with the main filter cap and coupling caps also. I also replaced every single 1/2 watt carbon film with .1% and 1% tolerance metal films in one of them. I copied everything with the second 1060 except for the resistor swap.
There was a bit more clarity and definition in the one with the metal films, but really not enough to make it worth all the effort.
 
Is it absolutely necessary to order film caps in either "reel" or "ammo pack"? Is that the only way to receive them with long leads? I have a few that are only available as "bulk" from Mouser and want to ensure I have enough lead length to install correctly.

- MKS2C043301K00JSSD (only bulk in stock)
- MKS2C041501H00JSSD (only bulk in stock)
- MKS2C041001F00JSSD (available in all types, in cart as "bulk")
- MKS2C034701CJSSD (available in all types, in cart as "bulk")
 
pioneervibes said:
Is it absolutely necessary to order film caps in either "reel" or "ammo pack"? Is that the only way to receive them with long leads? I have a few that are only available as "bulk" from Mouser and want to ensure I have enough lead length to install correctly.
Click to expand...
In my experience that is correct. Bulk will give you the "SD" short leads (6mm or so)
 
Yes, that has been my experience as well. The short leads usually are still usable in vintage gear though. It’s not that bad.
 
EastPoint said:
Yes, that has been my experience as well. The short leads usually are still usable in vintage gear though. It’s not that bad.
Click to expand...
That's all I've used really. The short leads have worked in almost every case.
If not, I can usually mount them on the back side if the board. And if not, I can always solder a couple snipped off lead ends to them to make them work. But I've only had to do that once or twice.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom