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How to tell if a Nakamichi 300 BX is gear or idler tire version

kcollins4

Rocking somewhere
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Somewhere along line, Nakamichi changed this model from idler tire to gear drive.
Update kits were even available for awhile to do it yourself or hire a tech to make the change. Is there a way to tell which factory version you have by serial number or other visual clues. I don't have access to the deck I am interested in. I know the seller has no clue in helping find out. Serial number is written as A126.7 listed over the number 28442. This machine was purchased in UK and eventually ended up in the US. The gear drive version seems much more desirable by what I've read.
Thanks for any help.
 
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If you remove the cover from the back of the cassette well you can see the idler/gear between the two reels. Removing the cover requires removing only two screws from the top two corners of the cover.
 
AFAIK. You cant tell by S#. You have to pull off that plate. And seller probably wont do that.
Gear drive has higher W&F numbers and is noisier.
I assume the BX300 says bx300. No A or E behind the 300 usually means its a dual voltage or 4 voltage.
Idler tire model wouldn't stop me from buying it.
 
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thanks zedex. I would take either type but would prefer a gear drive. Just trying to learn some things.
 
thanks zedex. I would take either type but would prefer a gear drive. Just trying to learn some things.

Gear drive is not better than a well maintained idler tyre. There's a site I cannot link to which measured both gear and idler.
 
If it runs, it is easy to tell by trying to stop the take up reel with your finger in FF. If it stops easily, it is tire.
 
I recently converted one of my BX-300s to gear drive. The flutter was measurably lower with the tire. Wow was the same. But that doesn’t mean it is always that way. I converted my CR-7 to gear drive as well, and it’s W&F stayed exactly the same. Tire is definitely quieter in FF & REW, and I’m sure the gear is also harder on the motor than a tire, but in play it is basically just as quiet.

They made the tire so dang thin and the whole arm assembly is rather fragile, and that POS translucent washer that keeps the tire hub in place? Total PITA, so worth it for me to convert them. I just have too many decks to play them all often enough to have to deal with a tire like that when I decide to use it. If the W&F increases from 0.03% to 0.04%, I’m not going to give it a second thought.
 
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Any of you folks know if the Japanese ZX-5 used a specific version, or some of both? Just curious.
 
AFAIK, the ZX-5 was simply the Japanese version of the BX-300 with fixed 100VAC transformer (so hard to use in the US). I can tell you my latest Serial number BX-300 is over 51000 and a 1st quarter 1987 build and it was a tire. So if a BX-300 is factory gear, it has to be a very high SN.
 
I had probably 4 bx300s and i wish i would have recorded the SN# on them. But all had tire.
 
Here's a list of some of the BX-300s I have owned showing the reel drive mechanisms as received by me. This doesn't mean someone else hadn't been into them previously, so take this with a grain of salt. I sold all of them so have none today.

01165 - A127000204 - tire idler
02387 - A127001337 - gear idler
23330 - A127022353 - gear idler
34570 - A127033596 - gear idler
48121 - A127047660 - gear idler
 
I believe a lot of gear conversions were done gratis or very inexpensively early on, when new. There were a lot of complaints of high pitched whine in the BX-300 (and also CR-5/7) from when new, and dealers simply replaced the entire transport, already calibrated, under warranty, which came with a gear drive. All the ones listed were certainly converted or warranty replacements.
 
AFAIK. You cant tell by S#. You have to pull off that plate. And seller probably wont do that.
Gear drive has higher W&F numbers and is noisier.
I assume the BX300 says bx300. No A or E behind the 300 usually means its a dual voltage or 4 voltage.
Idler tire model wouldn't stop me from buying it.
Not necessarily on the W&F. I have several of them from bx-125, 150 and bx-300. some of the idler gear drive has lower and if any of the two mas discrepancy, its still under tolerable numbers. But the biggest pro is, the gear drive will outrun the idler tire drive with consistency and stability in the test of time. But then again its all a personal preference. Both are great and I have no problem of using any of them.
I found myself using the idler gear more. I playback and record beyond the average.
Cant tell from serial number or to know visually on picture what drive it is. Unless you run it.
 
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I recently converted one of my BX-300s to gear drive. The flutter was measurably lower with the tire. Wow was the same. But that doesn’t mean it is always that way. I converted my CR-7 to gear drive as well, and it’s W&F stayed exactly the same. Tire is definitely quieter in FF & REW, and I’m sure the gear is also harder on the motor than a tire, but in play it is basically just as quiet.

They made the tire so dang thin and the whole arm assembly is rather fragile, and that POS translucent washer that keeps the tire hub in place? Total PITA, so worth it for me to convert them. I just have too many decks to play them all often enough to have to deal with a tire like that when I decide to use it. If the W&F increases from 0.03% to 0.04%, I’m not going to give it a second thought.
Absolutely. Did you acquire a whole transport?
 
No, since I work on Naks all the time, and have for a while, I was buying CR-1s for anywhere from $5-25 before anyone was interested in a lowly CR-1 & the latest insane price jumps. On most, the motor is dead spotted, so I replace the motor and install the necessary gear tidbits. Same on my CR-7.
 
No, since I work on Naks all the time, and have for a while, I was buying CR-1s for anywhere from $5-25 before anyone was interested in a lowly CR-1 & the latest insane price jumps. On most, the motor is dead spotted, so I replace the motor and install the necessary gear tidbits. Same on my CR-7.
I wanted to buy some of the auto azimuth nakamichi machines. I'm not sure how difficult it is to maintain.
 
I’m not sure what you mean. Nakamichi had a few auto azimuth decks, but some are for record head azimuth and others are for play head azimuth. It has to be one or the other, it can not be both. Any deck with “ZX” in the model number is record head azimuth adjust. All are automatic except the ZX-7 & ZX-9, which allow full manual adjustment of dolby level, bias, and optimum record head azimuth via built in tones and an external knob with direction & peak leds. The auto reverse dual direct drive Dragon is the only auto azimuth for the play head in both directions. The CR-7, Casette Deck One and DR-1 both have manual play head azimuth adjustment with a centering light or indicator. The CR-7 actually is an auto calibration deck that adjusts the play head automatically in record to match the fixed record head. .

Once a Nakamichi has been serviced PROPERLY they will go many years before needing anything further besides keeping the tape path clean. Proper service is not cheap. These decks are 30-45 years old. The grease has gone hard or sticky, motors wear or dead spot, certain capacitors have to be replaced, the correct belts and tires installed, etc etc. Most of the unused decks have sat many (10-20) years in a closet or unpowered so corrosion, cold flow, and drying out etc, have compromised parts. They were put away without the tape path cleaned, so the tape oxide, escaped binders and lubricants from the tapes that coats everything it touches has corroded in to the pressure rollers, tape guides, capstans and heads. The best decks are used and cleaned regularly, but not to the point of excessive physical wear.

Nakamichi made a couple of hundred thousand tape decks. Heck, they made over 30,000 Dragons alone, over an 11 years period. And probably twice as many RX-202s & BX-300s. Most/many can be restored to new or even better than original specs but others are too far gone and there is no way to tell unless $$ are spent or you know it’s history, which is fairly rare. There are no Nakamichi parts left, so donor decks are required and a bad play head can set you back $250, or may even be unobtainable like for a Dragon play head.

Most people do not want to pay todays stupid high asking online prices for an unknown condition unserviced or poorly serviced Nakamichi, only to have to shell out another $350-500 to have it serviced again. I don’t blame them. So for the average enthusiast it makes sense to stick to the most common models, like the BX-300, get it overhauled by someone that knows what they are doing and enjoy the nostalgia.

Some are inherently more reliable than others, like anything else, but most issues are well known and usually have solutions. I have customers who’s decks I serviced over 10 years ago, and still occasionally drop me a note that they still work perfectly.
 
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My MR1 sat for some time and the idler tire became an issue again, my tech converted it to gear drive a few months ago, works great
 
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