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I had to re-re-cap

linuxslate

Well-Known Member
A couple evenings ago my Harman Kardon a224 suddenly started buzzing/humming.

I pulled the bottom, and found that one of the caps that I installed when I first got the amp, was leaking.

rerecap_1_ed.jpg

Note also liquid on the tie wrap and the other end of the capacitor (right near the (-) mark).

The main can cap was replaced with a good, German 50 + 50 can capacitor, but this capacitor (original 40+40+ lowvoltage100+100) was discovered to be bad after I ordered the other capacitor.

In my haste to get the thing up and running (and to see if it had any other problems) I bought the shown capacitors at a local surplus place.

They were new (full leads), but of unknown age or previous storage/handling.

Note also value -- They are 80µF caps replacing each 40µF element. the low voltage caps that replace the 100µF sections can just be seen behind the HV caps. I was anxious to get this running, and these capacitors are far enough down the divider chain that I figured 80µF wouldn't hurt the rectifier tube.

I now replaced the shown leaking capacitor and the one next to it with new 47µF/450V parts from a local tube supplier. I have much more trust in what he sells than what I find on the floor (literally) at the surplus place. I've also never heard of Belmoor.

I also replaced that cardboard covered thing with a more modern 50µF 50V part. The replacement is surplus, too, but it's a real Sprague, and given the application of that capacitor, I'm sure it will be fine for quite a while.

I still have not changed the ceramic disc coupling caps or the shown 0.1/400 coupling caps. Just sitting here as I type this, I guess I should have replaced them. I have a bag of new 0.1/630V Chiclets.

I ran the amp for at least 2 hours last night, and it seems fine. It's dead silent in idle, and again sounds as good as it ever has.

I can't see that anything external would cause that cap to fail like that. I'm assuming it failed just be cause it was another old electrolytic. I guess I'm lucky that it didn't fail in a worse way. I could have been cleaning up a real mess. Note the corrosion it caused.
 
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Not sure if that has an easily deciphered date code, but they look old to me. Also never heard of Belmoor capacitors.
 
Be sure to measure the voltage and make sure it doesn't exceed the cap specs.

Well, you're right that I really should check that, but I find it really hard to believe that the voltage could be that far out of spec on the high side.

The schematic shows 170V on one of those caps, and I rough calculate 235V on the other. The original capacitors are spec'ed at 300V, These (the one that failed and the replacement) are 450V parts.

I'd have to take it apart to really check, but I'm pretty sure that it was the one on the "down" side of that 10K resistor that failed (170V -- looking at picture above seems to confirm).

Some capacitors can survive much more than their rated voltage for a time, but having the amp work basically normally, and having the last cap in the chain fail from over voltage is almost a statistical impossibility.

All of the tubes in this amp (including rectifier) seem to be really old, possibly original. There's no bleeder or divider resistor downstream that could be failed open. Even with a bit higher line voltage, it is likely that the HV is low, not high.

I did run it with the top off and all of the lights off -- just to check for red plates, light shows, etc. It seems to be perfectly happy.
 
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