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I recapped my M-65 and have a few questions.

FriedChicken said:
It's possible there are multiple guys on eBay.
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Ya there are and the guy from canada has much nicer components in his kit.

I was happy with what I bought. I ordered it a couple of years ago and just never got around to putting them in until it became apparent that something was wrong. Now that I know quite a bit more this stuff I would use the service manual and order straight from mouser .
 
nodak said:
Ya there are and the guy from canada has much nicer components in his kit.

I was happy with what I bought. I ordered it a couple of years ago and just never got around to putting them in until it became apparent that something was wrong. Now that I know quite a bit more this stuff I would use the service manual and order straight from mouser .
Click to expand...

What's his seller ID?
 
The search bar is on the work bench. Just remove the amps top cover & roll up your sleeves. And observe polarity

FriedChicken said:
I understand, however it's possible not all capacitors are available, and I don't want to start a separate thread just for my M-65. It would also be nice to order the parts ahead of time and not have to pull the unit apart twice.
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Sorry if I sounded snarky. You're right, there was an M-60 or M-65 thread a few years back where a dude itemized every cap replacement in list form.
 
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Soundscape said:
The search bar is on the work bench. Just remove the amps top cover & roll up your sleeves. And observe polarity

Sorry if I sounded snarky. You're right, there was an M-60 or M-65 thread a few years back where a dude itemized every cap replacement in list form.
Click to expand...

That's what I'm looking or, since I think I have to make a larger mouser order anyway
 
When ordering from Mouser use the Customer number feature as you put parts in your cart by refrencing
the location in the amp for the part. So if you need a 10uf 100v cap for C112 put C112 in the customer reference box. then mouser prints it on the packaging of the part so you know where it goes. it makes things way easier when installing many parts that might be close in value and could go in the wrong location.
 
My order came in but it'll be a bit before I can get to it, have other things on my plate right now.
 
I wanted to share something about C100 on this amp. I haven't seen this discussed here on the M-60/65 because it's more of an issue on the M-80/85's. It's a polarized 100uF, 25 Volt on the print and that's what the old cap was. I asked the good cap seller (we've been talking about) about this because C100 is a bipolar in his kit, vice polarized.
He says Yamaha put out a tech service bulletin making that cap location bi-polar to standardize the 60's with the 80's. The values are different on the 80's so don't compare 60's & 80's. I have not read that TSB but I have used both type caps and they sound nice, and aren't on fire. Lol
It's a green Nichicon Muse if you choose bi-polar. Part# UES1V101MPM1TD
 
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Soundscape said:
I wanted to share something about C100 on this amp. I haven't seen this discussed here on the M-60/65 because it's more of an issue on the M-80/85's. It's a polarized 100uF, 25 Volt on the print and that's what the old cap was. I asked the good cap seller (we've been talking about) about this because C100 is a bipolar in his kit, vice polarized.
He says Yamaha put out a tech service bulletin making that cap location bi-polar to standardize the 60's with the 80's. The values are different on the 80's so don't compare 60's & 80's. I have not read that TSB but I have used both type caps and they sound nice, and aren't on fire. Lol
It's a green Nichicon Muse if you choose bi-polar. Part# UES1V101MPM1TD
Click to expand...

That it the odd one that doesn't have an equivalent on the other channel. It would be nice what any of this stuff actually did, lol.
 
FriedChicken said:
That's what I'm looking or, since I think I have to make a larger mouser order anyway
Click to expand...
The 5 black gate caps near the sonybond glue are in the audio path. It's good to be fussy when choosing those replacements & spend the extra $ on those 5. If there's any discontinued elna rfs silmic II's left, grab em.
C100, 103,104,117,118
 
Well I screwed up. When I pulled the big caps I did mark them but now Im not sure if I marked them correctly because they dont agree with the markings on the board. The two caps already installed are correct but I am not sure of the polarity on the next two.

@avionic could you give me a helping hand here?





yamaha2.jpg yamahe1.jpg
 
So I know how I screwed up. I didnt take a picture when I marked them. I got pulled away for something else and I forgot if I went

12
34

or

12
43

I could have sworn I did it the first way but when I double checked the board before I put them in the polarity didnt match the marking on the board, so here I am.
 
So, 1 more question. Is unplugging the auto class a switch from the main board an acceptable way of disabling it?
 
Asmodeus2112 said:
Sure, but why? Sorry, I have not read your whole thread, is there a problem?
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Well, class A is hard on the amp, and in the 35 years I that I've been around these amps nobody has ever been able to tell the difference. If I disable it, I wont ever be able to accidentally run it.
 
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