Ideal Solder Temperature

[Yamaha5000]

I recently purchased Troubleshooting & Repair Audio Equipment by Homer Davidson (3rd edition), in the Section Soldering Techniques he explains that the temperature of the iron should be under 400 degree F. I have tried experimenting with this lower temp and it seems rather marginal. I use Cardias Silver Solder on all new solder joints. This low temp seems to the most difficult when removing old solder from the PCB. Any thoughts on this topic?

 

[eiraved]

The melting point depends upon the solder alloy composition along with its percentage. The higher the percentage of silver, the higher the temperature will be.
https://www.technic.com/sites/default/files/resources/Solder Alloy Melting Temperature.pdf

That being said, if you must increase the temperature to remove old solder, the job must be accomplished quickly so as not to cause lifting of the traces or damaging the components. Using flux will assist greatly in solder removal.

 

[spark1]

Seems very low to me.

 

[spicer]

I recently purchased Troubleshooting & Repair Audio Equipment by Homer Davidson (3rd edition), in the Section Soldering Techniques he explains that the temperature of the iron should be under 400 degree F. I have tried experimenting with this lower temp and it seems rather marginal. I use Cardias Silver Solder on all new solder joints. This low temp seems to the most difficult when removing old solder from the PCB. Any thoughts on this topic?

It feel marginal because it is marginal. A higher temperature allows one to get the intended area hot enough quickly so one can solder the area and remove the iron with as little conduction as possible to more sensitive areas... that is with any solder though the silver requires a higher temperature to flow. Same applies to removing old solder, as in component removal. This has been my experience after years of soldering.

 

[avionic]

My irons are set to approx. 700°F. And I work very quickly at both de-soldering and soldering. I am using Kester "44" 60/40 solder.

 

[AudioGMan]

There really isn’t an ideal temperature. It just depends on the type of solder you use, the size/style of the iron tip, if you also use flux paste, and how fast you work. I mostly set my Weller at 720°F and use 60/40 rosin core solder. That’s what works best for the speed at which I solder.

 

[avionic]

Homer Davidson

Homer was a character.. He past away in 2003. I last spoke to him in 2000 when I moved back to Fort Dodge. He was sure pissed at me when I told him I had enlisted back in 1977. At that time I was doing all the field service calls. I think he was hoping I would take over the small RCA TV & Radio dealership.

 

[Yamaha5000]

 

[Yamaha5000]

I seem to get the best results from:

 

[HPMguy]

I'm running my soldering station at 350C or so, seems to work fine. No idea what the solder sucker runs, standard 45 watt iron, so probably similar to a bit hotter.

60/40 or 63/37 solder.

 

[exwhyzed]

I'm running at 405C, or 700-750F, which is hot enough. I was having some trouble recently when the iron (Hakko FX-888) started giving me a lower temperature...i could not get old solder joints to liquify. Anyhow, a recalibration solved the issue. Sounds like a typo in the book you have, where the F needs to be a C.

 

[YY1]

I agree.

Hard for me to get anything together under about 700F.

Hotter and shorter time on joint is much better than cooler and more time on joint.

 

[Skywatcher]

I recently purchased Troubleshooting & Repair Audio Equipment by Homer Davidson (3rd edition), in the Section Soldering Techniques he explains that the temperature of the iron should be under 400 degree F. I have tried experimenting with this lower temp and it seems rather marginal. I use Cardias Silver Solder on all new solder joints. This low temp seems to the most difficult when removing old solder from the PCB. Any thoughts on this topic?

Are you sure it isn't 400C? I run about 650F on average depending on component/trace size, but with Kester "44" 60/40 for quick in and out and minimal dwell time. No need for exotic boutique solder. Some argue the esoteric word put on a product means "magic sound".. Is it nice solder? For sure, but it's not magical. On these old vintage boards and traces, the lower the melting point, the better. Do one channel with "esoteric", and the other with Kester "44" 60/40, and I guarantee you'll never hear any difference.

 

[Hyperion]

No need for exotic boutique solder.

QFT.

 

[Semanon]

The melting point depends upon the solder alloy composition along with its percentage. The higher the percentage of silver, the higher the temperature will be.
https://www.technic.com/sites/default/files/resources/Solder Alloy Melting Temperature.pdf

That being said, if you must increase the temperature to remove old solder, the job must be accomplished quickly so as not to cause lifting of the traces or damaging the components. Using flux will assist greatly in solder removal.

Seems very low to me.

My irons are set to approx. 700°F. And I work very quickly at both de-soldering and soldering. I am using Kester "44" 60/40 solder.

Melting point is not the best working point. Lower heat for a longer time can do more damage to traces and components than faster, precise work. Worried about damage to a component? Use a clip on soldering heat sink.

View attachment 2243041

Would not use the stuff. Playing spooky audiophile secret formula games isn’t a good idea. The formulation matters. I use Ersin Multicore 60/40 for rework and SN62 for new boards and cabling.

It’s astounding that they are actually proud of being detrimental to their customer’s knowledge.

 

[Skywatcher]

Melting point is not the best working point. Lower heat for a longer time can do more damage to traces and components than faster, precise work. Worried about damage to a component? Use a clip on soldering heat sink.
View attachment 2243239


Would not use the stuff. Playing spooky audiophile secret formula games isn’t a good idea. The formulation matters. I use Ersin Multicore 60/40 for rework and SN62 for new boards and cabling.

It’s astounding that they are actually proud of being detrimental to their customer’s knowledge.
View attachment 2243209

Clip on heat sinks aren't always going to fit in many places. But yes, for certain things they are a must. Polystyrene capacitors for one.

 

[Semanon]

BTW, most solder for electronics is Eutectic. It simply means that by combining multiple substances into a fixed compound with to create a uniform melting point that is lower than the melting points of the individual substances. That is kinda the definition of solder....

Edit: Correction - Most solder for electronics is eutectic. @HPMguy corrected my thinking. Thanks!

 

[Semanon]

Clip on heat sinks aren't always going to fit in many places. But yes, for certain things they are a must. Polystyrene capacitors for one.

Then work fast and be good. If you are not good or fast, practice on BPC until you are. I only use them for big solder blobs where I have to use a lot of heat and I want to protect the insulation on wires...and the aforementioned caps. And you can almost always wrap a few wraps of copper wire around a lead.

A hotter iron (within reason) is faster.

 

[Skywatcher]

BTW, all solder is Eutectic. Is simply means that by combining multiple substances into a fixed compound with to create a uniform melting point that is lower than the melting points of the individual metals. That is kinda the definition of solder....

Yeah, but it's not "quad eutectic", nor "quad" the price for very little, if any difference. But to each his own. In the end it's all about the music. No matter how you get there.

 

[Skywatcher]

Then work fast and be good. If you are not good or fast, practice on BPC until you are. I only use them for big solder blobs where I have to use a lot of heat and I want to protect the insulation on wires.

A hotter iron (within reason) is faster.

That's precisely why I use a "hotter" iron. Been at this for years Brother music lover.