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If I Can Do It - You Can Do It! Veneering A PL-530 TT

Ren, Nice work on the veneer and that looks like an outstanding cabinet. Do you have some type of different surface on the top?
Also, how many hole saws/drill bits did you go through cutting all those holes in the bottom interior panel?:D
 
Wow, definately beautiful work there. Makes me wish that I could attempt this, and replace the veneer on my tower system! That sat in a Public Storage for about a year, after my divorce. When I finally got it out, I found that there was a leak in the roof and the tower took the brunt of the damage, to the right side, along with a pair of accoustic response towers. Didn't care much for those speakers anyway. my RTR's were ok so I was happy, lol. Oh, well. looks ok from a few feet away, and I'm planning on building a new cabinet with hardwood. I figure I can dissassemble the old one to use as a template.
 
Sorry, I have to bump this with a comp!

Amazzzzzing work! I really struggle with whether to do this or not. I love the real walnut, but my vinyl veneer is in amazing shape right now.
 
MAXZ28 said:
Pioneer PL-530 TT in walnut with Watco's Danish Oil Natural finish



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1. Words can't describe what you did. I am in awe. Better than it left the factory is an understatement.

2. You are a BIG Depeche Mode fan., which is cool. I saw that Blue German label and the colored wax, and instantly knew what it was. :D
 
AndyD421 said:
1. Words can't describe what you did. I am in awe. Better than it left the factory is an understatement.

2. You are a BIG Depeche Mode fan., which is cool. I saw that Blue German label and the colored wax, and instantly knew what it was. :D
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Thanks! I just ordered some more walnut veneer this weekend. I have a PL-550, a PL-570, and a couple PL-530's of my own that will be getting the same treatment this summer/fall.

Big DM fan indeed - some 100+ pieces in my DM collection - mainly singles stuff all the way back from day 1. :thmbsp:
 
Excellent work !!
And a beautiful table. wow
Thanks for the tutorial, giving me ideas....
Got a recently purchased Nikko integrated that has vinyl disease.
bob
 
Don't ever sell yourself short Brothe, this sort of thing takes skill and it looks like you got it!! This is ART!! Beautiful!
 
Man, if you manage to get the PL530 you got from me, working again, and you make it look THIS good... I'd definitely like to see the end result!

Regards,
Gordon.
 
GordonW said:
Man, if you manage to get the PL530 you got from me, working again, and you make it look THIS good... I'd definitely like to see the end result!

Regards,
Gordon.
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I'll be sure to post a pic, Gordon. I got that PL-530 working 100% - repaired the control board, recapped everything and now I'm just waiting on the veneer to finish the cosmetics.
 
GordonW said:
Man, if you manage to get the PL530 you got from me, working again, and you make it look THIS good... I'd definitely like to see the end result!

Regards,
Gordon.
Click to expand...

Started the veneer project last night. Rough cut and ready for finessing and finish.

079xc.jpg


080lc.jpg
 
Looks seamless, nice work.
Glad to see you're moving up to the "Easy-ups", too, that brings back some memories.:D
 
This looks like a great project and one that I 'm going to attempt on my newly acquired Pioneer PL-560. However, one area of concern I have with any pre-glued product is that it will slowly start to come loose over time. I found a website that addresses this concern and I thought I'd submit it here for others who may have similar concerns.

The following can be found at: http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/1102-Pre-glued-real-wood-veneers:

For years we have had pre-glued edging tape (both plastic and real wood.) With large veneers you added your own glue. Now you can find large sheets of pre-glued heat-activated real wood veneers called CEDAN Tenderized Wood Veneer Sheets. Do they work? Yes, but not as easily as you might like.

Actually they suffer from the same problem as the edge tapes. When the glue on these is heated onto a bare wood surface, much of it just gets lost into the surface of the wood and the wood may not heat up enough to grab this glue. Also if the surface is not absolutely smooth, the gluing area is not as large as it could be. So, often, the edge trim comes loose with time. You get the same problem with the large veneers. In addition, they tend to pop up if you apply a water-based stain or finish because the wood swells up, creating more stress than the glue can take.

The solution is the same for both the edge trim and the large sheets. Prime the surface with contact cement. When I say ?prime,? I mean, sand the surface smooth to 120 grit paper, apply a coat of either water-based or solvent-based contact cement and let it dry for a day or more -- totally dry, not tacky at all. Keep in mind that all contact cement can be reactivated with heat. So when you use heat to apply the new veneer, the new glue will now bond with the old primed glue which has really soaked into the wood. Now you have a bond that will stay put.

The manufacturers want to make it just one step too easy by telling you to just add heat. Once you?ve primed the surface with contact cement, you can then ?just add heat? and you will have no problems later on.
 
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