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Improving A Vintage Phono Stage For Less Than $2.00!

... So for the cost of 6 resistors, 2 capacitors and 1 op amp (a total cost of about $1.50), you can have a much improved phono stage!
That is very interesting work you have done. Thank you for sharing. I am curious about one thing. Is the op-amp output voltage really 2.3V as shown in both the before and after schematic? Also, on the schematic shown there is only a -14V power supply. Is there a +14V power supply shown in the other channel or?
 
I believe I measured the voltage across the op amp. It's getting positive and negative 14V. I think it's a dual op amp so one for each channel...

I'm not sure about the output voltage about after because I haven't measured it. But it is louder with less volume knob needed...

-Tom
 
... Is the op-amp output voltage really 2.3V as shown in both the before and after schematic?

The 2.3V shown is the DC offset for the op amp, this will vary depending on the op amp used. I did not measure the DC offset of the replacement op amp. Its not a problem due to the high pass filter (C09/R09) at the output.

Also, on the schematic shown there is only a -14V power supply. Is there a +14V power supply shown in the other channel or?
The op amps used are DIP8 dual channel types and the -V is on pin 4 and the +V is on pin 8. Here is a link to the 4580 datasheet: http://www.njr.com/semicon/PDF/NJM4580_E.pdf
 
The 2.3V shown is the DC offset for the op amp, this will vary depending on the op amp used. I did not measure the DC offset of the replacement op amp. Its not a problem due to the high pass filter (C09/R09) at the output.


The op amps used are DIP8 dual channel types and the -V is on pin 4 and the +V is on pin 8. Here is a link to the 4580 datasheet: http://www.njr.com/semicon/PDF/NJM4580_E.pdf

Hmm, yes I just measured since I'm still working on it. It's at around 0.04V when nothing is playing. When playing it's AC so I would have to pull out my old scope. I don't think it ever hits above 2V though. I'm pretty sure I used the same op amps as shown in this mod...

-Tom
 
The 2.3V shown is the DC offset for the op amp, this will vary depending on the op amp used. I did not measure the DC offset of the replacement op amp. Its not a problem due to the high pass filter (C09/R09) at the output. ...
One of the changes you made, according to your revised schematic, was the removal of R63. Without R63, I would expect that the op-amp output to be at or close to 0V DC. If that is true and depending on the magnitude of the audio output signal, C09 could become reversed biased during the negative swing of the audio signal. If so, that may not be such a great thing. It may be that the original designer purposely created an offset at the output to prevent C09 from becoming reversed biased. Just a thought.
 
The resistor R63 is in the feedback loop and in the stock schematic, it indicates 0V DC at pin 2 (- input); I really think that the 2.3V DC offset is a worse case scenario that is inherent to the 4558 op amp.
 
The resistor R63 is in the feedback loop and in the stock schematic, it indicates 0V DC at pin 2 (- input); I really think that the 2.3V DC offset is a worse case scenario that is inherent to the 4558 op amp.
I find it really odd that Toshiba would specify a worst case scenario on the schematic. It would be desirable to have a positive voltage on the output in order to bias the electrolytic capacitor. Is it possible that the purpose of R63 was to create a positive bias on the output?
 
A couple of weeks ago did mentioned modification, and just to confirm for anyone interested in doing it, the results are satisfcatory - it does sound better.
 
I find it really odd that Toshiba would specify a worst case scenario on the schematic. It would be desirable to have a positive voltage on the output in order to bias the electrolytic capacitor. Is it possible that the purpose of R63 was to create a positive bias on the output?
That's a good point. Thanks. I think that the best solution is to replace all electrolytic capacitors in the phono stage (except the ones connected to +14 VDC and -14 VDC) with film capacitors even though the 10uF and 4.7uF film are much bigger than the original electrolytics but they can fit. So capacitor polarity won't be a problem.
 
Sorry to revive an old thread and hijack it but great findings on the 4580 @Leestereo ! I was also in the territory of finding a drop in alternative to the 4558 in my Sony TA-F222ESA (F570ES).

Currently i am running an OPA2134 in it and it sounds very good. I modified nothing in the circuit and it seems to be working fine. A significant improvement over the 4558. A good phono stage that is wider and cleaner than the 4558. I do have my doubts as I get the feeling it's driven my amplifier hotter than usual especially when I'm on phono.

I want to try out the NJM2068 as it seems to be a drop in replacement which Sony uses in their higher end ES amps also. But then I stumbled upon your thread, so I wanted to know:
1. Is the NJM2068DD a drop in replacement to a RC4558 and a circuit built around that?
2. Is the NJM4580 a suitable drop in replacement in the same circuit?
3. Is there anything i can or am supposed to do to maximize the performance of the phono/eq circuit of the said amp around the 2068 or the 4580 (whichever is better)?

Here's a file of the schematic, I hope I'm not being a brat for having you spoon feed me but I do seek advice of experts like you. I hope you can help me :(
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cpHwH30UVTwhekj4luV8eizhsFxZjw51/view?usp=drivesdk
 
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