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Inside the Minimus 7: repair and restore

hpsenicka said:
Unless you plan on monkeying around with crossover design, just replace the original cap with a good quality cap of the same value.
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Bah. :thumbsdn:

A group of us did the heavy lifting, comparing the actual performance of 10 mods developed over 30 years.

gmcjetpilot said:
That is an even longer thread. I went through a 25% of the thread. I saw about 4 cross-overs, some schematics, some store bought and some home grown DIY showing with pictures and some expensive component parts.

Could you break it down. I don't necessarily want the BEST just upgrade it a little, most bang (sound) for the bucks. I assume the old cap in the cross over is tired..... Thanks
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http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=2980246#post2980246
 
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an you please advise as to how to change those awful spring loaded speaker connections to bunding posts. would value any help.

thanks

hris
 
I'm bumping with a tweak. An audio buddy was here this weekend. He wanted to sling solder. We dug out 4 of my Kommie Kap PIO 2.2uF caps and put them in the crossover. I know that this value isn't right, but the stock cap is +/- 10% so we are within the stock tolerance.

The midrange opened up, the bass was less congested (this makes no sense) and the highs were much clearer. I'm burning in a set for my work room stereo that has Minimus 7s in it.
 
I'm installing the capacitors today. I'm going to get rid of the fiberglass for some fiberfill. But I noticed that the black cabinets were a little scuffed in the last 30 years. So I touched them up with a black Sharpie. I just colored them then blotted it after about 10 seconds. That leaves a nice flat black finish. If I had more energy I would sand and spray them. But I don't.

Does anyone know the way to identify the original drivers? These are white woofers. I just wondered if these are the first iteration of the Minimus 7s.

Looks like I killed another thread.
 
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Grainger49 said:
I'm installing the capacitors today. I'm going to get rid of the fiberglass for some fiberfill. But I noticed that the black cabinets were a little scuffed in the last 30 years. So I touched them up with a black Sharpie. I just colored them then blotted it after about 10 seconds. That leaves a nice flat black finish. If I had more energy I would sand and spray them. But I don't.

Does anyone know the way to identify the original drivers? These are white woofers. I just wondered if these are the first iteration of the Minimus 7s.

Looks like I killed another thread.
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The woofers may be white because they faded. :D
 
Just found a pair for $4. They are very clean and undented. Will have to see what I can do with the crossover. John
 
Minimus 7 simple improvement

For each of a pair I replaced the 4.7mfd 50wvdc bipolar electrolytic with a non-electrolytic, and was pleased with the improved sound (and pleased not to have to wonder ever again when the cap will go bad).
I also put a little damping material against the metal walls inside to reduce reflections.
The classical music coming through those speakers (if not overdriven), positioned about 2 feet from me as computer monitors--but via my Dynaco St-35 amplifier--is special in its imaging and, especially, timbral accuracy. (No, the st-35 is not for sale!) I am a classical violinist.
 
hey all, first post here. joined after reading aboot the indignias in the PE flyer. grand looking design and plan to build one this summer. anywho...

the in-laws picked me up a pair a few years back and i didn't use them for quite a while. hooked them up to a cheap-o technics sa-ex100 (?) and one of the woofers was blown, the spyder was ripped all around where the cone is. picked up a pair of the GRS replacements from PE just for some quick sound as these turned into the bedroom speakers. horrible, horrible replacement. i'vre read through this thread and the other fairly long thread by zilch and decided that i would like to do the pz-2.1 crossover design.

however, as i mentioned i've a blown original woofer and the GRS isn't suitable. i read that Pete B. recommend the MCM woofer as a more matched replacement, does that still hold true?

also, i've noticed people mention their original woofers so i took a look at my sole survivor and i noticed that it is stamped as 6ohms, normal? any feedback is appreciated.
 
Buy a used woofer on eBay. I wouldnt go with another woofer.

As far as I know most Minimus 7 woofers are 8 ohm
 
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I have 2 sets of these little gems. Just out of curiosty many years ago I put a pair of them up between the rafters in my 26 x 34' cement block basement and angled them down with their brackets. I connected them to my 45 wpc STA 90 reciever, turned up the bass about 6 db, backed off the treble about 4, and low and behold, at lower volumes they made darn good, enjoyable sound in an 885 sq. ft. room. Pretty darn good for a speaker I can hold in the palm of my hand.
 
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mikeybc said:
Buy a used woofer on eBay. I wouldnt go with another woofer.

As far as I know most Minimus 7 woofers are 8 ohm
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well mine didn't seem to be altered at all when i first had a look see. if i go with a single in that case then the woofers most definitely wouldn't match.

at the current time on the Bay, a single woofer is $20+shipping, for that price i can get a whole other set. although, that would not necessarily be a bad thing now. :scratch2:

the pricing for those mcm woofers with shipping is ~$40 anyways, so i do suppose i may as well just get another set.
 
Yeah. Probably your best bet...lots of them in mint condition for around 50 bucks a pair and then you'll have spare tweeters
 
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