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Installing power cord. What's your method?

da_kube

Well-Known Member
Hi HKers. I'm installing a power cord on a Marantz 1030 and it seems fairly straightforward. But I've never done one before. Any tips or tricks? I watched a few YouTube videos that likely burned the creator's house down, so I figure it might be best to ask a reliable source. I know you need to remove it from the tug preventer but after that some videos had people sucking solder for days to free up the leads. Is it best to just heat the lead and tug or what's the best way in general? Thanks!
 
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If I'm replacing a soldered in power cord generally I'll just snip off the cord close to the lug and as much of the solder as possible. Then, use the soldering iron and pick or forceps or whatever to work the remain bits out of the lug.

But, of course, you have to be mindful to not bake the terminal strip or board or pry much and break something or lift traces.
 
If I'm replacing a soldered in power cord generally I'll just snip off the cord and as much as the solder as possible. Then, use a pick or whatever to work the remain bits out of the lugs.

But, of course, you have to be mindful to not bake the terminal strip or board or pry much and break something or lift traces.
Thanks. I do have a desoldering gun. My plan was to use the flat bit in the soldering iron to help pry the wire from the lead. Of course, I'll be gentle.
 
In addition to above, a pair of strain relief pliers will make the job a lot easier, but kind of an expense if you're only ever going to change out one cord.
Is that for installing a new strain relief? Can I use the old one or is getting new preferred?
 
I've found that anything other than proper strain relief pliers bugger up the strain relief, no whether it's new or used. Which of course looks crappy and unprofessional. If you dig around the 'bay, you can probably find a set pretty reasonable.
 
I've found that anything other than proper strain relief pliers bugger up the strain relief, no whether it's new or used. Which of course looks crappy and unprofessional. If you dig around the 'bay, you can probably find a set pretty reasonable.
OK, I've never actually installed one. It's a clamp that you open and close around the wires and the pliers do the crimpin' (which ain't easy, whomp whomp)? I found a set for $10.
 
These should do the trick. No affiliation. When you get serious about repair, you can spring for a Heyco No. 29.
or amazon if one has prime or a $35 order to get free shipping.


those heyco 29s look pretty stout.

i'm sticking to my philmores. well worth the price even if you only do 1 grommet imo.
 
or amazon if one has prime or a $35 order to get free shipping.


those heyco 29s look pretty stout.

i'm sticking to my philmores. well worth the price even if you only do 1 grommet imo.
I sprung for a Heyco 29 about 15 years ago. Totally worth the $$. In this case, I think the Philmores will do just fine, and are probably the least expensive ones I would recommend.
 
I bought a small pair of needle nose plyers with a long nose for picking out bits of wire after using a solder sucker. I also have a very long thin pair of forceps, or vascular clamps. They're great for getting into deeper areas.
 
depends on if you use the same gauge cord as what came out of it. i match my new cord to what was already there and reuse the grommet.
I did order a bipolar cord from a dude on eBay who is probably on HK. He sells the LEDs and recap kits. But someone else fixed this cord externally with a polarized one they just electrical taped. Ugh.
 
I did order a bipolar cord from a dude on eBay who is probably on HK. He sells the LEDs and recap kits. But someone else fixed this cord externally with a polarized one they just electrical taped. Ugh.
if you are replacing a non polarized cord with a polarized one then you do need to pay attention to one thing.

2 conductor cords have a ridge on one conductor. that is the neutral wire.

make sure you connect that conductor to the same place inside the unit as the old one was.
 
If the original was non-polarized cord how would one ascertain the most correct way to install a polarized cord?

I know what I'd do, but curious the group think on that.
 
if you are replacing a non polarized cord with a polarized one then you do need to pay attention to one thing.

2 conductor cords have a ridge on one conductor. that is the neutral wire.

make sure you connect that conductor to the same place inside the unit as the old one was.
Will do but I'm thinking this wasn't a pro job. I think it goes from bipolar and then a polarized plug was added externally where the bipolar plug was torn.
 
I think it goes from bipolar and then a polarized plug was added externally where the bipolar plug was torn.
that's even better for you. that means you have the original factory connection intact on the inside where you are making your new connection. :thumbsup:
 
If the original was non-polarized cord how would one ascertain the most correct way to install a polarized cord?

I know what I'd do, but curious the group think on that.
I did see a good thread on that that's older. But Echowars is still ticking around on here, I see.

 
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