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Installing power cord. What's your method?

Just did this on a Sansui AU 517. I like to use Polarized wire (see picture). The black cable is connected to the terminal that is connected to the switch. Replaced the suppression with a proper X2 0.47uf 300V suppression cap. Works perfectly.
What does the suppression cap do? I assume thats what the tantalum caps were for?
 
usually those are not going to be tantalum. Ceramic or film, or sometimes even paper if its one of those RIFA caps that are prone to blowing up.
 
usually those are not going to be tantalum. Ceramic or film, or sometimes even paper if its one of those RIFA caps that are prone to blowing up.
I think these are tantalums but I’m still pretty green on this stuff.
 

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here is an example of a tantalum that has you confused. note the polarity.

tantalum-capacitor-500x500.jpg

they also come in other shapes and sizes and some with color codes and no writing but i think this is what you thought you had
 
Those kits are a ripoff and a joke. I don't recommend them to anybody.
they are more expensive but for guys like me who don't know my tants from my ceramics they make sense. Full disclosure, I've never used one. I've always purchased my own stuff from Mouser and it takes me forever to figure out signal path and substitutions. The ones sold by a well known HKer also solve the main filter cap fitment issues. Seems nice for people who can't read electronics like you pros can.
 
they are more expensive but for guys like me who don't know my tants from my ceramics they make sense. Full disclosure, I've never used one. I've always purchased my own stuff from Mouser and it takes me forever to figure out signal path and substitutions. The ones sold by a well known HKer also solve the main filter cap fitment issues. Seems nice for people who can't read electronics like you pros can.
I don't like the component choices in them, especially the capacitors, and they tend to leave things out like trimmers and crucial semiconductors.
 
Just did this on a Sansui AU 517. I like to use Polarized wire (see picture). The black cable is connected to the terminal that is connected to the switch. Replaced the suppression with a proper X2 0.47uf 300V suppression cap. Works perfectly.
Can you share the part # for that strain relief thingy?
 
We always called a strain relief a "heyco" after the company that made/makes them. They even used to say "Heyco" on them.

Doug
 
The hot side of the power cord always goes to the fuse/switch.

Doug
Not a reliable indicator. Maybe if I was designing something it should be that way. If you do the chassis to house ground voltage test, the power switch could be on either side. But you could rewire the switch to the hot side if you want. Just don't count on that being a reliable indicator.
And sometimes the fuse and switch are on opposite sides.
 
Can you share the part # for that strain relief thingy?
Sweet, that looks way easier than the squeeze type, especially for fatter cords.

I change cords to polarized on most of my overhauls. I normally use an SP2 type cord which usually involves filing the chassis to allow for a bigger grommet.

I looked on digikey for a similar power cord since I'm in Canada. This one looks good, you just waste the female plug. I've left original cords on bigger units that have thicker cords than my replacement and just marked the hot side. But this type will be good for those units.
401P1086F071A(R)
Now to see if they have that type of grommet, the one you linked is $10USD on amazon.com but $40 CND on amazon.ca...
 
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