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Is a amp capable of delivering both delicate detail and body to sound ?

Modified one of these old fellows for a friend years ago. A good amp from the start but it became a real keeper after some simple modifications. 2x50W class A or 2x200W class A/B. 70lbs.

http://audio-database.com/Accuphase-kensonic/amp/P-400-e.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Accuphase-P...690846?hash=item3d30db699e:g:4OYAAOSw241YfthF

http://www.subito.it/audio-video/accuphase-p400-barletta-andria-trani-189367249.htm

They look good. I really think that I need more A classish power.

I don't like the A/B amp sound unless it's pop music/R&B which I don't generally listen to.
 
Simple answer,yes it's possible,at least to some of us,but one person's POV cant possibly account for everone else's POV,so it'll always be open for debate.


Lots of things come into play in terms of background "noise",but it really helps to have a quiet signal chain,as all it takes is one "noisey" component and it can contaminate everything else after that,and any noise will probably just become more & more noticable as it passes down the signal chain.

Besides THD one may wanna look @ the signal-2-noise ratio and the crosstalk/channel seperation specs and the like.


I from the "more power the better" camp,but one can still acheive this sorta goal with relatively modest wpc as well.

And it does'nt hafta cost big bucks to get there either,just a well rounded knowledge of audio gear and a smidge of dumb luck,LOL.

I have a low power Sansui system that's well rounded (AU-217 / TU-217 / SE-80 / JBL LX-22 ~ LXE-330) and it sounds really nice in all respects.
Have a couple of systems at/around 50wpc that do too (Adcom pre/tuners & amps w/EQ's and similar speakers) and they sound well rounded too.

And the headphone/nearfield system I'm listening to right now tops ^^^ those ^^^ three systems by a good margin.

That system is:
Desktop PC w/SB ZX optical outs > Monoprice optical splitter > Parasound D/AC-1000 > NAD 106 preamp XLR outs > EV-7100 amp > Canton GL-260 speakers w/a Canton AS85-SC subwoofer.

Now that HP/NF system has amazing SQ,it's probably my best sounding rig right now.
And talk about quiet,,,this one is like a bottomless pit of "blackness"...
IMO that might have something to do with the XLR between the preamp & amp,but I cant swear to that being the case.
Also suspect the Parasound D/AC-1000 may be playing into that situation as well,as that unit has a pretty strong ouput as well.
And that EV-7100 amp is still only 100wpc > 4ohms (those GL-260 are 4 ohms speakers).
But it's a stout amp,dual mono design with a pair of short yet really big 'ol transformers,it's very heavy for an amp that's 1.75" tall (1ru).

A step (or two/three) up from there and it usually just gets better.

My friends system's have all this in spades.
The amps he has are a Sunfire 300/2 and a pair of Bryston mono-blocks (7bst IIRC).
But of course the "buy in" for gear like that is higher than my gear,so yeah if what one is after is the "best of the best",then yeah it can get a bit spendy.

Anyhow JMO ~ FWIW ~ YMMV.

Bret P.

Thanks for the long message! I'm using nordost and chord cabling.
I agree lower power amps can sound quieter with nice sound separation especially for the bids and highs in high efficiency speakers but not very accurate in the bass. (Know sealed boxes can work well for accuracy but I do like my speakers more lol - it's subjective) The speakers I have drive 38cm bass cones. They need a bit of power to come alive along with the other 8 speakers in the cabinet.
 
They look good. I really think that I need more A classish power.

I don't like the A/B amp sound unless it's pop music/R&B which I don't generally listen to.

Get ready for a lot of heat and power usage. What do you find wrong with class AB? I'll point out that so far I have not seen a class A amp suggested in this thread. I had a class A Krell here and I found it too hot and too analytical for my taste. An amp ought do nothing but amplify the signal; however, a lot of people like amps that actually do play with the signal. Personally, I think your effort should be more focused on speakers to get the results you seek. Speakers have a much greater variance on sound reproduction than well designed amplifiers. Good luck.
 
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Looks really interesting!
How does it sound?
My speakers are onkyo scepter 300
I don't know their impedance curve but are listed at 6ohms. I have a feeling they may dip below 4 because I had a tube amp playing them and rotated between 4 and 8 ohm taps and the 4ohm sounds better (however this may also be because there are 9 speakers in this cabinet with 150w to 1500w peak). I was considering amps way above the 100w per Chanel but I could bi wire but the cabinets selection of terminals (1 pair for bass, mid and tweeter on face of cabinet and then the other terminal is for the 6 mid/high radiators on toconstruction doesn't allow me to feed the bass separately) perhaps the B1 haha haven't looked into the sony's yet
How would you describe the sound of the b2 vs mx2000 or mx10000?

A good match would be one of these IMG_0969.JPG or the 588 from Onkyo. The 5099 would be a nice choice too.
 
amps should only pass without any coloration, distortion, or any other effect to the signal put into them. G-I-G-O.
Just make the speakers move, whiich distroys the sound more than any other piece of audio equipment there is.
 
You might want to look into a White Oak Phase Linear 1000. Detailed, warm, high damping factor, almost zero distortion and not analytical in the least. If OP is local, your more then welcome to come and spend a few hours with my amps. Puts out about 514wpc at 8ohms and around 800+ at 4ohms

Lastly, preamp choice is just as important

Here is one of mine based on a 700B (there is nothing Phase Linear left except the chassis and tranny, everything else is TOTL White Oak Audio components)

About $1800-2000 if you have a donor chassis (depending on builder used). Usually if you choose a Phoenix Forum member, they come with a lifetime guarantee

PQ2kIh9.jpg
 
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Looks really interesting!
How does it sound?
My speakers are onkyo scepter 300
I don't know their impedance curve but are listed at 6ohms. I have a feeling they may dip below 4 because I had a tube amp playing them and rotated between 4 and 8 ohm taps and the 4ohm sounds better (however this may also be because there are 9 speakers in this cabinet with 150w to 1500w peak). I was considering amps way above the 100w per Chanel but I could bi wire but the cabinets selection of terminals (1 pair for bass, mid and tweeter on face of cabinet and then the other terminal is for the 6 mid/high radiators on toconstruction doesn't allow me to feed the bass separately) perhaps the B1 haha haven't looked into the sony's yet
How would you describe the sound of the b2 vs mx2000 or mx10000?

I don't know about the Sony's but the Yamaha B-2 is rated at 140W into 4 ohms and the B-1 is rated at 150W into 4 or 8 ohms. Would definitely not run anything rated or a configuration that runs for an extended period under 4 ohms as you risk damage to the VFETs, which are increasingly difficult if not close to impossible to replace. You pretty much have to get replacement VFETs from another amp. The B-2's are much more common than the B-1's. You'll also find many more techs willing to work on the B-2 Vs a B-1.

I haven't heard how it compares to the MX2000 or MX10000, but if you do a search on this site the B-1 and B-2's are highly regarded. Here's a link about a comparison between B-2 and MX-2000:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/which-is-best-yamaha-b-2-or-mx-2000.320102/
 
The op can be answered with an objective 'absolutely'. Why not? Who wants an amp that does nothing but play loud? Which ones are designed to do only that? Public address systems?

Yamaha and Technics? You've got a lot to look forward to:)
 
Have you heard this amp?
Yes, a friend has 4 of them powering a pair of Infinity Quantum 3's. They're a fine sounding amp. The power supply of so overbuilt the amp could probably play into a dead short.
 
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Assuming that an amp is not bad these are speakers and crossovers which determine the quality of sound in any room (forget about room acoustics for the moment). The best sound quality one can get from active crossovers as good active crossovers (say Bessel 4th order) will always introduce much less distortion than passive ones and there is nothing between the amp and the driver so the amp controls its driver directly.

cheers,
 
I've had two high power amps through here that both sounded great. One was a McIntosh MC2255, the other a Yamaha MX-1000, each with 250 WPC. Both of them sounded much better to me in terms of sound quality than the 60-90 WPC receivers and integrated amps from Yamaha, Kenwood and Pioneer that I've had. I'm a fan of vintage SS Sansui and Marantz sound so you know where I'm coming from.

That said, both of those amps are no longer here. I didn't need the power and sold them for pretty good money. The SS power amps that I'll likely keep are a Mac MC2505 and a Phase Linear 400. Otherwise I'm pretty much a tube guy now.
 
Taking it up a notch, directly driven full range ESLs would be the ultimate with distortion at the level of the amps as my Acoustat Monitor 3 will testify. They are much better than my Citation XX driving my Kappa 9s. Completely different playing field.
 
Someone correctly pointed out that a lot depends upon the recording. It must also be said that the Source component will make or break any system with great aspirations to the highest sound quality. Play crap recordings on a compromised Source and no matter which amp one is using, there will be no high class sound issuing from even the best amps and speakers.
 
Granted, could have been me, referring to dynamic speakers. But the directly driven Monitor 3s render all recordings otherwise driven to better then direct to disc with a serious cart if you will. Sounds nuts but it truly is like elevating the weakest link to preeminent stature.
 
Get ready for a lot of heat and power usage. What do you find wrong with class AB? I'll point out that so far I have not seen a class A amp suggested in this thread. I had a class A Krell here and I found it too hot and too analytical for my taste. An amp ought do nothing but amplify the signal; however, a lot of people like amps that actually do play with the signal. Personally, I think your effort should be more focused on speakers to get the results you seek. Speakers have a much greater variance on sound reproduction than well designed amplifiers. Good luck.
Hi,
I agree the heat is a problem!
A just like the quietness and space of class A and don't like the puffiness of AB.
But on the other hand I need the power as my speakers have 9 drivers in them. So was going for a pseudo Class A like amp with low distortion, flat, quiet, fast, accurate character.
Love my speakers.
 
your thread title reminds me of the many statements I've read online regarding the praise of nelson pass/pass labs power amplifiers. full bodied sound even at low wattage unlike many other amplifiers. superb timbre and resolution.

his "first watt" series which is only a handful of watts in pure class A has found universal praise

a pass labs 30.5xa is a killer on the used market, as are the pure class A thresholds, that have been recapped brought up to spec. If you need higher power his pass labs class a/b are also excellent.

his first watt series also offers great value
 
amps should only pass without any coloration, distortion, or any other effect to the signal put into them. G-I-G-O.
Just make the speakers move, whiich distroys the sound more than any other piece of audio equipment there is.
I'm just exploring this at the moment. I do like tube sound in mids and highs and ideally (depending on music type) and also like the accuracy of ss.
objectively you are right but I'm still on the fence as to which sound I prefer. I need more eyperience
 
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