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Is high power a waste at low to medium volume?

Some folks believe that having more power than is needed to achieve desired SPL without clipping still provides some benefit(s).

I am not of that belief. Seems to me that if the amp is not clipping, then any remaining capability is only potential power. Stated another way, it is unused...and therefore does not exist (other than as a capability).

However, given the complex real-world variables involved with calculating precisely how much power is required to hit desired SPL w/o clipping, I tend to err on the side of "too much" rather than too little.
Precisely. If your chosen speaker is just a little hard to drive at certain frequencies, all bets are off. You will need a much more capable amplifier to maintain sound quality. Even my 60 and 70 watt amplifiers tend to run around 40 lbs.
 
I didn't realize there are power amps with volume controls?
Spark you seem to be trying to be sarcastic. It's fairly obvious to everyone that I'm referring to volume control with the output gain which every power amplifier has.
 
No, not at all. I've just not seen a power amp with volume controls.
All power amplifiers to my knowledge have gain controls which for individual channels so it works as an output volume control.

The bias that is available by varying preamp output and power amplifier output relative to each other in a way that overcomes any of the possible issues that big powerful amplifiers have at lower volume levels.
 
No not directly, it's an analogy..

you have 100w amp driving a pair of nice speakers about 100db efficient(high gear ratio)
But then you find your dream speakers and swap em out.. but they're only 89db efficient(great for burning tires)
Good effort lol !
 
Power rating is a poor indicator of sound quality, and a poor indicator of how well an amp will actually handle the complex impedance challenges of a given speaker. All watts are not created equal, and they sound different on a high res system. Regardless of the power rating, how the amp sounds is a variable, and is subjective. I've gone from 55wpc Technics receiver, to 70wpc Yamaha A-500 integrated, to 255wpc Hafler amp, to 150 wpc NYAL Moscode amp, to 100 wpc to Distech LS-2 amp, to 35 wpc Dynaco, to 17 wpc Dynaco/VTA in triode, and each progression was an improvement IMO.

The current 17 wpc can't play as loud as the Hafler did, but it is so much clearer and more pleasant to listen to at all but party volumes.
 
What it really comes down to is what works for you. To say that you don't really need a powerful amp or your low power amp isn't adequate is just a reason to dismiss what works for someone else because it's not the way you do it. If it's working it doesn't matter what anyone else says.
 
(...) I am not of that belief. Seems to me that if the amp is not clipping, then any remaining capability is only potential power. Stated another way, it is unused...and therefore does not exist (other than as a capability). It would follow that if it doesn't exist, it can't have any benefit on performance (until, of course, it is called into play and converts from potential to actual). (...)

Output impedance may be (even) lower, which can have audible benefits - foremost tighter/better controlled bass.

Greetings from Munich!

Manfred / lini
 
All power amplifiers to my knowledge have gain controls which for individual channels so it works as an output volume control.

The bias that is available by varying preamp output and power amplifier output relative to each other in a way that overcomes any of the possible issues that big powerful amplifiers have at lower volume levels.
It's quite common for power amplifiers aimed at the pro market to feature a control for each channel, but strictly speaking they're input trim controls, ie they're just a pot at the input. They don't actually alter the voltage gain of the power amp.
Power amps aimed at the domestic market rarely have any controls on them.
 
It's quite common for power amplifiers aimed at the pro market to feature a control for each channel, but strictly speaking they're input trim controls, ie they're just a pot at the input. They don't actually alter the voltage gain of the power amp.
Power amps aimed at the domestic market rarely have any controls on them.
That is what my JBL/Urei 6290 amp has. 2 power switches and 2 knobs (since it's dual mono) marked Db attenuation on the face. I just leave them turned to just under max and use the preamp for volume control. I bought this amp because I needed something that can handle occasional 1.1 Ohm loads from my Acoustats, and would be able to drive pretty much any speaker since I am still holding out hope for a set of Kappa 9s to pop up for cheap near me. I went with the doubling of power when impedance is halved theory, (from 8 Ohms at 300W to 600W at 4 Ohms). It sounds good on all my speakers, even if it's just idling along while pushing my 102 Db efficient ones. It's no Krell, and definitely won't win any beauty contests, but it specs and sounds very good, and is the definition of overbuilt. The outputs are only run at about 25-35% of rated power, for reliability. However I think if I didn't need the bigger amp for the hard to drive electrostats, I would have been perfectly happy with the 32W my Sansui 771 puts out into my more efficient speakers. I look at more power for me as opening up more speaker options and extra safety margin with headroom, but needs vary from person to person
 
No, not at all. I've just not seen a power amp with volume controls.
On a pure power amp, they're not volume controls, per se, but rather level controls, setting how much input power is needed to drive the amp to its full capability. They're mostly a feature of pro amps, but my Soundcraftsmen A2502 has both level controls and LED meters, like a pro amp, but RCA inputs, and 5-way binding posts for speakers, like a home audio model.
 
Power rating is a poor indicator of sound quality, and a poor indicator of how well an amp will actually handle the complex impedance challenges of a given speaker. All watts are not created equal, and they sound different on a high res system. Regardless of the power rating, how the amp sounds is a variable, and is subjective. I've gone from 55wpc Technics receiver, to 70wpc Yamaha A-500 integrated, to 255wpc Hafler amp, to 150 wpc NYAL Moscode amp, to 100 wpc to Distech LS-2 amp, to 35 wpc Dynaco, to 17 wpc Dynaco/VTA in triode, and each progression was an improvement IMO.

The current 17 wpc can't play as loud as the Hafler did, but it is so much clearer and more pleasant to listen to at all but party volumes.
Interesting.

I'm
It's quite common for power amplifiers aimed at the pro market to feature a control for each channel, but strictly speaking they're input trim controls, ie they're just a pot at the input. They don't actually alter the voltage gain of the power amp.
Power amps aimed at the domestic market rarely have any controls on them.
True.
 
One thing to note is the design differences between low and high powered amplifiers. In most cases they are not the same. Power supply aside. Higher powered amps because being more expensive the designers and bean counters can afford to use better circuit designs and components. Technically there is no reason the circuit designs can’t be the same apart from power supply voltages, capacity etc. This also applies the line level circuit designs in receivers and integrated amplifiers as well.
 
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Back in prehistoric times when I was working at my dads station all these older well to do older women would come in with these 7-8 ltr big v8s in caddy’s, Lincoln and Buicks that’ would be so carboned up from going 35 -55 mph they would run rough and idle rough ! The solution usually a 10 min 75 mph run then they would run like new ! So no over sizing an engine capable of 120 mph + in a 3 speed vehicle to be driven at slower speeds is not a good idea ! The reason I mention 3 speed is because bigger tourqe v8s were often teamed with a higher gear ratio say a 243 rear end so to allow for greater top end speed a typical v8 with a three speed and a say 373 or 411 rear end great for tire burning but will top out at 100 mph why this is relevant is at 35 -55 mph the engine would always be running low rpms and would carbon up the valves ! So yes the car analogy does not apply directly to audio !

Funny - I remember my father having a conversation about that with some other guys when I was a kid :)
 
Many forget or ignore that most well-designed amplifiers are rated at continuous power. Most amplifiers are able to provide substantially more power for the typical length of time of a peak (fractions of a second).

Doug

True. The issue seems to come when even well designed amps are tested in ways to game the system and produce ratings that may not always translate to real life situations
 
I have 2 that do. 1 Class A and a Class D.
I have 7 at the moment. Three class A/B and 4 class D; 6 of them are mono blocks, 2 professional amps with balanced bridgeable mono and the class D offer balanced mono, but not bridged.
 
Back in prehistoric times when I was working at my dads station all these older well to do older women would come in with these 7-8 ltr big v8s in caddy’s, Lincoln and Buicks that’ would be so carboned up from going 35 -55 mph they would run rough and idle rough ! The solution usually a 10 min 75 mph run then they would run like new ! So no over sizing an engine capable of 120 mph + in a 3 speed vehicle to be driven at slower speeds is not a good idea ! The reason I mention 3 speed is because bigger tourqe v8s were often teamed with a higher gear ratio say a 243 rear end so to allow for greater top end speed a typical v8 with a three speed and a say 373 or 411 rear end great for tire burning but will top out at 100 mph why this is relevant is at 35 -55 mph the engine would always be running low rpms and would carbon up the valves ! So yes the car analogy does not apply directly to audio !
In my case that analogy does work for explaining, to my wife, why it's good to crank up the volume, occasionally. We've been together so long that she remembers a number of our carbureted V8's that needed some gear-winding after extended city driving. Now I'll tell her the KT-120's plates are getting carboned-up and the amp needs to spend some time at high volume.
 
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