Issue with Pioneer SX 1280 on AFCI circuit

[markthefixer]

Check the C3, C16 timing cap for being installed backwards AND try a new timing cap

1. ground Q2 collector. Relay engages and stays engaged.
2 remove Q1. Relay continues to cycle, no change.
3. Ground PA3004 Pin 4 momentarily, relay continues to cycle, no change.

1 means relay is capable of pulling in
2 means no external current sense input is causing the pa3004 chip to drop the relay out
3 grounding pin 4 means no DC voltage input from the amps is causing the pa3004 chip to drop the relay out

That leaves watching the voltages at these pins as the relay merrily cycles in and out:

pin 1 at 12.7v stable?
pins 4 and 5 grounded and stable?
pin 6 at -7v stable?
pin 7 at xx ac volts stable?

and watch pin 3 go from near 0v when the relay is dropped out to 0.7v when relay is supposed to be pulling in.

 

[micaiahm]

Check the C3, C16 timing cap for being installed backwards AND try a new timing cap



1 means relay is capable of pulling in
2 means no external current sense input is causing the pa3004 chip to drop the relay out
3 grounding pin 4 means no DC voltage input from the amps is causing the pa3004 chip to drop the relay out

That leaves watching the voltages at these pins as the relay merrily cycles in and out:

pin 1 at 12.7v stable?
pins 4 and 5 grounded and stable?
pin 6 at -7v stable?
pin 7 at xx ac volts stable?

and watch pin 3 go from near 0v when the relay is dropped out to 0.7v when relay is supposed to be pulling in.

Thanks Mark. I will do this and post results.

 

[larryderouin]

micaiahm; On most meters when you switch to amps or ma's, you have to move the input of the RED PROBE to the amp/ma socket, or else you'll get a bogus reading or worst a short circuit and either blow the meter fuse, or something else. Check your meter for a ma/amp socket, and if it has one, move the RED PROBE to that socket and perform the AC AMPS test on i believe it's pin 7 (double check) and repost the results for Mark.

 

[micaiahm]

Check the C3, C16 timing cap for being installed backwards AND try a new timing cap

1 means relay is capable of pulling in
2 means no external current sense input is causing the pa3004 chip to drop the relay out
3 grounding pin 4 means no DC voltage input from the amps is causing the pa3004 chip to drop the relay out

That leaves watching the voltages at these pins as the relay merrily cycles in and out:

pin 1 at 12.7v stable?
pins 4 and 5 grounded and stable?
pin 6 at -7v stable?
pin 7 at xx ac volts stable?

and watch pin 3 go from near 0v when the relay is dropped out to 0.7v when relay is supposed to be pulling in.

Checked C3 and C16, both are installed correctly based upon power flow. Getting a new timing cap.

Ok so I haven't touched this thing for the past 5 weeks. So tonite I just took measurements of PA3004 and observed. I held on each Pin to verify whether stable or not. (Q1 is still out for these)
Pin1 12.8v jumps to 12.85v when relay engages.
Pin3 0v jumps to .4 when relay engages.
Pin4 0v jumps to .10v when relay engages.
Pin5 0v steady
Pin6 -7.4v steady
Pin7 .4vac
Pin8 gets close to 6v the drops to around 2v when relay engages.

Just noticed this symptom is now the meters jump each time the relay engages. Sigh!

 

[micaiahm]

micaiahm; On most meters when you switch to amps or ma's, you have to move the input of the RED PROBE to the amp/ma socket, or else you'll get a bogus reading or worst a short circuit and either blow the meter fuse, or something else. Check your meter for a ma/amp socket, and if it has one, move the RED PROBE to that socket and perform the AC AMPS test on i believe it's pin 7 (double check) and repost the results for Mark.

Thanks Larry. I decided to use a different meter tonite. It's a cheaper one but has worked pretty well in the past. My Fluke was borrowed and hasn't come back.

 

[petehall347]

first thoughts are is relay delay same timing as before ?
was the power switch looked at ? its been a while now .

 

[micaiahm]

So, this thread has been hanging out there awhile and I thought I would post an update.

I was not making any headway so in the beginning of August I took both 1280’s to John Wargo.

Multi-volt: It took two rounds and a total of 7 weeks to fix all the issues. Evidently there was more wrong with it and done to it by the previous tech than I had found. It took going through the receiver by John from top to bottom. Now, I have a solid working 1280 that has been playing for over a month. Thanks John.

Other: Still with John being worked on. Previous tech made a mess of this one also.

Lesson learned, just because they advertise and talk a good game doesn’t mean they know what they are doing. $800 lesson. Life is expensive!

There is still something wrong with the building power, for every so often it will trip my Panamax, causing it to disconnect and shut off all electronics. At least my equipment is protected. Still working with the building managements electrician to figure out the issue.

Thanks again to all who chimed into this thread to help. I appreciate it.