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I've got a Bogen "Challenge"

RUmad

Super Member
So, I don't won't to be too long winded, but I feel this deserves a little backstory. Honestly, I can't remember exactly where I even picked this thing up. Had to've been a swap meet or a tag sale, and it had to've been cheap, because I've had it for many years and hadn't even looked at it. I dug it out of storage about five years ago while looking for something else. It is a Bogen Challenger CH-18. Got it on the bench, inspected it for obvious signs of....well....things that might blow up. Looked pretty dang good, except that some knucklehead had spray painted the entire unit silver, including speaker terminals, inputs, the pilot light jewel etc. So, bringing it to life with the variac, immediately the first cap can committed suicide. Right in front of me, I was scarred for life. Put it back on n storage. Fast forward to about a month ago. I decided I wanted to put together a mono rig/guitar amp. Nothing crazy, not necessarily 'hifi', just something to do really. Replaced the can with two flying lead 20uf caps (incorrect) and the first resistor between the sections because it looked pretty fried as well. Attached to the variac and an Ampeg speaker cab, and she came right to life. No hum, just music. Ok, I'm happy, I figure I'll put it together correctly now. I had to order the right size psu caps, somehow I didn't have the right sizes on hand, two 8's and 4 5's @ 500/450. While I waited for them I replaced all the signal caps and any out of spec resistors. Tidied up, tested tubes, and researched. Now, after the 'resto' I'm playing an iPod into the amp (through a blending circuit I borrowed from je labs) to an 8" Tannoy studio monitor and it sounds fantastic. Here's where the "challenge" comes in. I can't stand that the signal is forced through a four way selector switched tone stack. No way to play it clean. On 'deep bass' it sounds great at low volume, bass is tight and hits hard, but, obviously, all the sparkle is filtered out. On 'crisp' it sounds fantastic, especially at higher volume, but a lot of the bass is filtered out. The other two are complete rubbish. (Mellow and brilliant)
I've been banging my head on this for over a week. Do I figure out a way to bypass? Or a way to send the signal through one of the bad settings but remove the circuit, effectively another way to bypass I suppose
Here's what I would like to do, after MUCH agony trying to decide. Considering I can't actually play the guitar, although I do have a couple, I want to omit the guitar input. Run the audio signal through BOTH preamp tubes (6sf5's) with a two pot tone stack between stages, before the phase splitter (6sl7). Completely gut the selector circuit and add a bass and treble tone stack that I can use as needed. I can read schematics, I can solder and very much do any mechanical work but I'm having trouble designing a circuit, or finding one similar enough to try online.
I'll attach the schematic I found, which is ALMOST identical to the circuitry that was there when I started. I've made some small changes; the blend circuit, biasing the first tube for instrument, and lowering b+ and properly biasing the 6v6 outputs.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I haven't been a member long but have been reading for years. And since I signed up already ran into some very nice and unbelievably helpful folks. So thanks for make my me feel at home! "Challenge" accepted?

Alan
 
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I'm not one to engineer circuits much, but I bet you could transplant this tone circuit. Just the center part between the 12AU7 stages. It's not fancy, but would give more control than the original. It's really straightforward and simple passive tone control, fairly high impedance. Can be built right on the back of the control pots with probably one terminal strip.

RC23CU.jpg
 
I had the chassis, switches/pots and tube sockets for a CH18, and rebuilt it to specs, but didn't have the correct txs, so I made do... could never get it to run right, specially thru the tone controls, which I attribute to using a universal replacement OPT... I finally scrapped the 6V6s and converted the output stage to 6L6s, from a Bogen C25 schematic, (thanks again Tinkerbelle!),,, which worked out very well as Challenger was running the 6V6s at 420Vp... its a nice sounding PA amp, and doubles as a guitar head by redoing a mic jack, and using the 1st stage...
CH18 originally had a dual PS, 120VAC/6VDC, and had a phono built in the cover, on top of the amp... Does yours have those parts? It also had 2 vibrators, one for the 6V amp supply and one for the phono motor, neither of which I have...
 
Repair_guy, thanks for jumping in. That looks like the type of circuit I'm looking for, but imagine the values would be drastically different in this case because the 6sf5, I understand, is almost identical to one half a 12ax7. Also I would think I need to rebias both pre tubes so I don't end up with TOO much gain. Good start though. Thank you.
Knockbill, after I rebuilt mine it was running the 6v6's at about 485 volts and both the output and the power transformer were EXTREMELY hot. I played around with the cathode resistor and power resistor between the first two caps and got it down to about 425 and plate dissipation at 13.3, which I like so I do go through tubes. Once I get the tone stack sorted I'll buy some NOS tubes, and probably last a lifetime. This amp sounds way better than I anticipated, which is why I'm taking it a little further. I DID convert the stock mic input to 1/4" jack and it sounded fantastic with guitars hooked up. No vibrators on mine. Thanks for the input.
 
I replaced the stock sylvania 6sf5's with NOS RCA's, the phase splitter is now a Philips JAN 6sl7 and, the only tubes I haven't replaced yet, the outputs are one RCA and one Sylvania 6v6gt's. After I biased, the trannies barely get warm, and I mean after hours of fairly high volume. I don't want to drop a hundred or two hundred bucks until I've got the tone section figured out. I really dig the sound this thing makes. And, quite by accident, I just picked up a late 50's Fisher mono fm tuner. Things are coming together.

Edit; forgot about the rectifier! I switched a few different 5y3's from the parts bin. Had a Ken Rad that sounded good until I realized; it's only a 5 tube amp, I can try that 5w4g I've been saving for something special. Perfect!! And it draws a half amp less filament current which contributes to the cool running ptx. Sounds awesome.
 
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Forgot to mention,,, i used the DPDT phono motor switch to bypass the original tone stack,,, I think it sounds better without it and isn't needed with the tone control on the Strat...
Challengers and Bogens are classic guitar amp stock...
 
That's for sure. Personally, I think octals make all the difference in tone, as well as the higher voltage. Pretty decent opt's too.
 
The dpdt bypass was my first idea. Looking at the schematic it would seem extremely easy to do. But looking in the amp, capacitors from the tone switch terminating all over the place, confused the heck out of me. I did remove the resistor that goes to the wiper of the switch, thinking it would work as a temporary bypass, but it didn't sound right. Either I misunderstand how it works, or it does need some kind of compensation. That's why I want to remove all the components and add the pot style. That and I want both preamp tubes to amplify the audio signal.
 
I'm playing around with converting a Challenger CH-18 to guitar. I started out with that lighthouse schematic too, but the tone stack is not even close to on in a stock unit.
Here is a closer to stock version. Mine didn't have any of the vibrator parts either, only a mic and phono input. I just replaced my switch with a tweed era single control, I moved the tone circuit out of the neg. feedback loop, and placed it between the second pre. and the phase inverter.
 

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I was also thinking "just bypass it". Thats a goofy tone control circuit. Monkeying with the feedback loop to alter the tone just seems like a bad idea.
 
Changing it to guitar amp is very easy, and they sound fantastic. As little as replacing the mic input with a 1/4" jack, or as much as whatever. That's an interesting schematic, I assume they varied models, and I got lucky that the first schematic I found was almost exactly what my amp is. Mine doesn't use NFB, and the tone is between the second preamp and the phase splitter. That's what I'd like to change. I want to find a 12ax7 schematic before I start changing things. It sounds too good now to mess it up with trial and error. Thanks peeps!
 
Yes sir. I'm out of the house at the moment but I'm sure I shot a shot in this phone.
 

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Thanks for the pic. It's a little hard to tell how similar they are from that shot, but from what I can make out they are pretty close.
It appears that challenger varied knob style, finish, etc. from year to year.
Here is an old thread from another site that might give you some additional ideas. Mine looks more like the second unit in the thread, with burgundy lower, and gray knobs.

http://www.vintageamps.com/plexiboard/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=106887
 
Yes sir, I've seen that one many times. It's almost identical to mine except, as I said, some knucklehead spray painted mine silver from top to bottom. Which is fine for me, I plan to hide iron a cabinet anyway. Was there any shot in particular you wanted to see? I'll gladly accommodate, provided you don't mind how rather sloppily I put this one together. Wasn't planning on showing the world. But be happy to.
 
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Here is mine.
I didn't plan on putting it out there for display either, but It might help someone down the road.

I was more interested in the "Guts" than the cosmetics. :) IMG_3430.JPG IMG_3431.JPG
 
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