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JBL 1200hz crossover for 2225/2425

elitopus said:
The ferrite LE14 don’t seem to get much love.
elitopus said:
So what gives? From what I’ve read, the H versions are a better woofer. Unless you’re an AlNiCo purist…
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From the JBL specs, the Ferrite has a much bigger X-max. and To me makes them better!
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Along with the fact that according to many including" Greg timbers" stating ;
the older Alnico motors loose a significant amount of energy when overpowered,
over heated, or Dropped. And I'm one of those Alnico purists!

elitopus said:
as better
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I don’t mean to say AlNiCo purist like it’s a bad thing. I have some AlNiCo drivers. My main speakers are all AlNiCo.

I prefer ferrite drivers now because I worry less about abusing them with lots of power/listening loud. I’m slowly making the switch over to an all ferrite setup.
 
Testing out the fitment. I still need to make grills.

I kinda did the opposite of Zonker with my baffle color. His were light blue and he painted them black. I painted mine light blue. It’s flooring paint I had leftover from a job

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bowtie427ss said:
That's probably the highest quality driver load an Aztec cabinet has ever seen.

Nice marriage! :thumbsup:
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Thanks!

Those Aztec cabs aren’t bad. 3/4” plywood, and some guy before me was nice enough to add a brace on the back panel ;)

They don’t smell like Altec cabs though

We’ll find out what the boss thinks of them when she gets home. I swapped out the speakers while she’s at work. Better to ask for forgiveness…

I also swapped out the Ashly amp for a bigger one. I was using a FET-1000 before, and I swapped in a FTX-2001. I think the Aztec-o-waves can handle 250wpc probably. We’ll find out.
 
The speakers these are taking the place of consist of Altec 414-16b woofers, Altec 32b horns, Emilar EA-175-16 HF drivers, with custom crossovers in Altec 879a cabs. Compared to those speakers these have more top and bottom end. I have the l-pads turned about halfway up.

The speakers get loud and are clean sounding. It’s impressive such an inexpensive HF driver can sound so good. And they don’t sound harsh either.

My one complaint is the woofers have some audible distortion when pushed hard with heavy bass music. Like EDM. It could be that I’ve found out where the limit is, or it might be something in the cabinets that need to be tightened up. I’ll have to mess around and see.

The thing I appreciate about these speakers the most is they’re made of parts that can pretty easily be replaced. I want something I can listen to loud and not worry about unobtainium parts.
 
elitopus said:
My one complaint is the woofers have some audible distortion when pushed hard with heavy bass music. Like EDM. It could be that I’ve found out where the limit is, or it might be something in the cabinets that need to be tightened up. I’ll have to mess around and see
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The Le14H has the same amount of Xmax as the 2225H ( which isn't terribly much ).

Hi-Passing the signal almost immediately a few hz below the box tuning is a safety feature.

OTOH, Did you clean out the internal foam filter ( that by now has disintegrated ) and will eventually get into the Voice-Coil gap ( creating a rubbing//grinding sound ) ??

That internal filter is removable from the woofers back vent ( "blow-hole" ) after you remove the foil-cal ( heat with an iron over baking-pan paper or use a paint gun to soften the glue bond of the foil-cal ).

I use a vacuum that has a computer-keyboard wand attachment ( for reducing the available suction so as not to collapse the dust-cap ).

:)
 
With a 2225/2226 I’ve not had any trouble of running out of woofer with 250 watts. I can run the amp just short of clipping and never get any distress signs. I let the amp meters be my guide and just keep out of the red.

I need to look closer at the foam situation. When I replaced the surrounds I glanced through the screens and didn’t see any foam. I assumed someone had already removed it but that was probably foolish on my part. I should remove the foilcals and take a closer look.

I had good luck with removing the foilcals on a pair or E140 recently. With those I could see the jagged edge of the foam still in there. I use a heat gun also.

Speaking of the E140, it’s tempting to throw 2235 kits in those. I know it’s a slightly different motor than the 2225/2235, but I’ve read that people have had good results with a 2235 kit in the E140 frame. I would use MWA kits.
Maybe for the next project…
 
Today I gently removed the foilcals and checked out the foam situation. About half the foam was not where it should be. I vacuumed out everything I could see from the magnet vent. If I have any trouble in the future I’ll remove the dustcaps and look from that side.


I really like the way these speakers sound. They do drums well. I’m a drummer and that’s important to me. I don’t speaker fluent audiophool, so I don’t have the proper vocabulary.
I will say that the drums have all the proper tone they should. The tom toms especially. The speakers can accurately reproduce an acoustic drumset with all the subtle nuances that it should have.

I was even listening to some Van Halen the other day and was impressed. Typically I don’t like the way that VH was recorded. The bottom end is missing. With these speakers that’s still the case, but they seem to give what’s there some new life and character


I need to crank them up and see if the foam I vacuumed out has cleared up the high volume distortion I was getting before. I’ll report back.
 
My phone is so used to autocorrecting speak to speaker that it did it in the above post and I didn’t even notice until now. Kinda fits, so I’ll just leave that

It also corrects audiophile to audiophool. lol
 
I’m thinking about building some nicer 4507 cabs (the ones I have won’t pass the WAF test) and loading them with the JBL waveguides with D220ti drivers, and 2226G woofers. I’m wondering if I have enough efficiency in the horns to keep up with the 2226G with the present crossovers.

The LE14H is 91db sensitivity. The 2226 is 97db. The D220ti is 109db on a horn (I forget which one).

I’m wondering if I use the same crossover (changing the woofer section with values for the 4 ohm driver of course), if I’ll have enough adjustment in the L-pad to keep up with the woofer. Ideally the L-pad could be removed and it would be the perfect HF level without it :)
If I needed to, R2 would be the value to adjust correct?

I’m using this crossover right now
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I come from the belief that 12 inch and larger woofers experience cone breakup and the cones are to heavy to be used above 300 HZ neighborhood. So that means a big horn and the proper drivers and crossover to make the combo work correctly together. I know about TIM and FM distortion that Paul thought wisely so were big compromises in the sound of music and agree. But unless you have the room for the mighty Jubilee speaker I would say 3 way speakers are a better solution with a low cross over point to the woofer and with midrange and tweeter drivers time aligned with the woofer to prevent imaging and staging errors. Now that you can get La Scala and Kipschorns with electronic crossovers and both being changed to use 12 inch cones and shorter horns with different dispersion patterns and capable of time alignment. These latest versions of the Corner horn and La Scala speakers should be really improved in every way.
 
I just got a pair of LE14H-3 for these cabinets. The foam under the dustcaps is still intact. Should I try to remove it before I swap the LE14H for the LE14H-3?

I’ll post some pics and Dats graphs shortly
 
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elitopus said:
I just got a pair of LE14H-3 for these cabinets. The foam under the dustcaps is still intact. Should I try to remove it before I swap the LE14H-1 for the LE14H-3?

I’ll post some pics and Dats graphs shortly
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I would remove the foam before using the speaker ( considering the woofers are still easy to access ).

:)
 
Thanks Earl. I’ve been looking out for a pair of LE14H-3 for the while now. I’m excited to see how they compare to the LE14H. From what I’ve read they are a little less efficient. I’m fine with that.
 
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