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JBL 4311's = system complete... for now.

About to tackle this on my 4311B's. Has anyone considered putting t-nuts or something similar in the baffle before reinstalling the foil badge, then using shorter screws from the inside of the cabinet? I'm considering doing this. While unscrewing the crossover from inside the cabinet won't be any fun, at least you won't have to remove the foil badge again to remove the crossover.
 
Well, I went ahead and did the t-nuts and socket head cap screws so I can remove the crossovers in the future without having to pull the foil badges again. It's a little awkward reaching inside to screw / unscrew, but it's way better than risking damaging the badges. I wish I would have done this before painting, but the foil badge covers it all.

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I finished my rebuild - thanks to all in this thread who contributed.

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Kind of an older post, but as far as the crossover's are concerned, is it safe to say that the setup in the 4311's is the same as the 4312C's? I just got a pair of the 4312c's for free. Very nice condition externally. I need to plug them in and see how they do, but with the condition of the cabinets and fabric, I think I scored.
 
just finished recapping the 3112 crossover on my jbl 4311's and i'm very pleased with the results. i did the improved sound with one dayton audio 3.0uf 027-220 and two dayton audio 4.0uf 027-226 to verify a improvement in one speaker leaving the other stock. it brought the tweeter and midrange back to life. then i did the same to the other speaker with the addition of two dayton audio .01uf bypass capacitors. the bypass capacitors made a marked difference in the quality of sound becoming realistic without the harshness and sssss of the other speaker without it. the audiocap thetas are $19.29 ea compared to $1.29 ea for the dayton audio. very happy with the results with all dayton audio caps. HTH
 
I haven't read this entire thread yet but I am bookmarking it so I can. So much great info!

I have a pair of 4311 (well...one is a 4311 WX and one is a WX-A) that seem to have impedance issues. When I put a meter on the binding posts they both fluctuate between 3.7 and 6 ohms. I assume that is wrong? I am guessing the crossover network needs recapping but I will test the drivers while I'm at it.

If I come across any new info or resources for caps, I will be sure to add. Wish me luck!
 
Hello all!
Planning to rebuild the networks in my JBL 4311 WX-A speakers. Almost everything is clear what to buy for rebuild, except the L-pads. I found some put the 1" shaft, some the 3/8". Which is the right one?
 
3/8" sounds about right for the L-pad shaft (the slotted part that sticks out and has the knob on it). The total height, for everything above the L-pad body can very well be about 1".

Have a look at the images on this page (no affiliation).

www.midwestspeakerrepair.com

JBL L100, 4310, 4311 Crossover Upgrade Kit – 1 Pair | Midwest Speaker Repair

www.midwestspeakerrepair.com www.midwestspeakerrepair.com

My 4311's were renovated over a decade ago - but I am almost sure I got the L-pads from parts express.
 
tnsilver said:
3/8" sounds about right for the L-pad shaft (the slotted part that sticks out and has the knob on it). The total height, for everything above the L-pad body can very well be about 1".

Have a look at the images on this page (no affiliation).

www.midwestspeakerrepair.com

JBL L100, 4310, 4311 Crossover Upgrade Kit – 1 Pair | Midwest Speaker Repair

www.midwestspeakerrepair.com www.midwestspeakerrepair.com

My 4311's were renovated over a decade ago - but I am almost sure I got the L-pads from parts express.
Click to expand...
Thanks! Acoording to pictures it should be the 1" variant, the 3/8" looks too short. I don't disassembled the speakers yet, just want to order the right parts.
 
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I think it's best if you inserted a thin putty knife under the foilcall, carefully remove it (while moderately heating with a hair dryer), take the LPads assembly out and see what comes out.
 
Please could someone recommend speaker wire terminals suitable for 4311's? I'm thinking about replacing the originals too for better.
 
Bumping this up as I’m about to embark on recapping my 4312s with Dayton caps. It’s ok to use one single 8uf cap instead of 2 4uf caps in parallel right?
 
The original capacitors are sand filled damped film caps, very rare and very high quality. Unless you measure some discrepancies with a good LCR meter, I wouldn't recommend a recap at all. On the other hand, if you have any issue with the original capacitors the Dayton's are an excellent choice. Capacitance wise you can replace two 4uF parallel caps with one 8uF cap.
 
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