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JBL 4410 vs 4412 vs 4410a vs 4412a

ToneAlive

ToneAlive

Active Member
Hey, this is a slight continuation of a thread I started the other day, sorry if I'm kinda double dipping here..

What are the SONIC differences? I know the 10 and 12 part refer to the woofer size. And I notice that the non "a" versions have controls for high and mid attenuation. And I notice that the 4410a is a smaller speaker than the 4410.

I am looking for a hifi speaker for use as soffit mounted "mains" in my 12' X 20' control room. Want a big dynamic accurate and clear sound, using a crown ps-400.. So are the 4412's really a bigger sounding speaker than the 4410's? I notice they are 150 watts as opposed to the 4410's being 100.

thing is, I think I really want the bigger 4412 but I have a friend who has a pair of 4410a's for sale for $200.
 
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I can't directly compare them, but I recently picked up a set of 4412's and a pair of L110's from a fellow AK'er. The L110's are a slightly earlier rendition of the 3 way/ 10" woofer arrangement in a 4412/ L100 size box. I'd say both are suitable to your needs, the 10" delivers deep tight bass, doesn't go quite as low as the 4412 but retains all the dynamics and slam. I gave the L110's to my son, I was visiting him at college this past weekend and he is using them as midfield monitors in his bedroom studio. Quite impressive sounding and have improved the quality of his mixes a lot! I do like having the L-pads.

Bird in the hand, you could pick up the 4410A's and if an upgrade opportunity comes along, use 'em as playback monitors in your live room. Keep all those sweaty dirty musicians away from your gear! I'd go listen to them. They often need to be refoamed.
 
Rapidan said:
Bird in the hand, you could pick up the 4410A's and if an upgrade opportunity comes along, use 'em as playback monitors in your live room. Keep all those sweaty dirty musicians away from your gear! I'd go listen to them. They often need to be refoamed.
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This :thmbsp:

I have a set of 4412s and love them - just deadly accurate and they really like power. the 4410s, in my experience, have faster bass but not quite as deep. What's your preference? :scratch2:

Edit - Fixed to remove the "a" from 4412 due to fat fingers...
 
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I would look for the non-A's. Real wood veener better XO's w/level controls.

I myself prefer the 10" models. I think they are more accurate for studio monitors.

I really like the L110 and the L96 but the 4313b would be my first choice!:yes:
 
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I have 4410's, and 4311B's in my stable, the 4311's have more booming bass and harsher mids. The 4410's are without a doubt the most accurate smooth sounding speaker I have ever heard.
 
I gotta go with the 4410's as well. While I haven't compared them to the 4412's (somebody wanna loan me a pair?), I do have a pair of 4408's. The 4410's just offer that little bit of 'something' that other speakers don't.

I'm more in tune for accuracy, bright sound and more tight bass (versus a thump).

I'd recommend going for that pair of 4410a's for $200. Chances are you won't use the tone controls anyway and unless you have a pair of 4410's to do an A/B comparison, you're going to like them - a lot!
 
Thanks everyone. I went and got the 4410a's. Haven't given them a real test yet, but so far they sound great.

If I was to get a subwoofer or subwoofers to go along with them, what would you recommend? And one for each side, or just one?
 
Interesting questions. I generally listen to music with one of the speakers in my sig. More often it's the 4410's or the 4408's together with an Altec Lansing sub. I don't have the sub turned up too loud - just enough to reinforce the low end. It makes for a full, well-rounded sound.

There's plenty of choices of subs on Craigslist. Polk Audio, JBL, KLH and so forth are often available. Look for a self-powered model with line inputs (if you can feed those) otherwise you'll have to have the ability to drive at least two pairs of speakers at the same time by using speaker-level inputs.

...and I'll confess - I've been thinking about adding a second sub. Just to see how it would sound. Yeah, that's the reason - just out of curiosity! :yes:
 
Go for two subs, ideally with 10" drivers that can dig down to the mid 20s and cross over at around 50 Hz. All you need is to augment the bass, not supersede it.

Enjoy them - you'll find yourself pulling out music that you haven't listened to in years just to hear what you didn't hear before. :)
 
juniorJBL said:
I would look for the non-A's. Real wood veener better XO's w/level controls.

I myself prefer the 10" models. I think they are more accurate for studio monitors.

I really like the L110 and the L96 but the 4313b would be my first choice!:yes:
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In what way do you feel the 4410 is more accurate as a studio monitor than would be the case with the 4412? As far as a comparison between the 4313 and the 4412, there is none. The latter has more accurate response, especially in the treble, better bass response and greater dynamic range. The 4313 does cost more, though, ostensibly because of greater collectibility. The L110 is not in the same league as the 4400 series. It is a (relatively) pleasant home speaker, albeit with a very bright top end, but nothing more.
 
I am just a big fan of the LE series driver. I really am not a big fan of the 128X. Now the 1200Fe is quite different!:thmbsp:

I like the attack of the 10 quite a bit as well as it's low distortion design.

Just my opinion as that is the only one I know!!:yes:
 
juniorJBL said:
I am just a big fan of the LE series driver. I really am not a big fan of the 128X. Now the 1200Fe is quite different!:thmbsp:

I like the attack of the 10 quite a bit as well as it's low distortion design.

Just my opinion as that is the only one I know!!:yes:
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Attack is the right word. With enough power, this line of speakers can realistically produce bass lines, cymbal crashes and snare drum snaps. My 4412s amazed me the first time I fed them 200 high quality watts per channel. You ought to hear "Breathe" from Pink Floyd's Dark Side of the Moon. When the alarm clocks went off, it was incredibly realistic.
 
sealy said:
Attack is the right word. With enough power, this line of speakers can realistically produce bass lines, cymbal crashes and snare drum snaps. My 4412s amazed me the first time I fed them 200 high quality watts per channel. You ought to hear "Breathe" from Pink Floyd's Dark Side of the Moon. When the alarm clocks went off, it was incredibly realistic.
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That is a good passage!:yes:
 
bakes said:
Go for two subs, ideally with 10" drivers that can dig down to the mid 20s and cross over at around 50 Hz. All you need is to augment the bass, not supersede it.
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OK. clear something up then.. you said, augment, which makes me think you might mean that just adding a sub and low passing it while leaving the 4410A's alone is what you meant. Or do you mean a true crossover for both where the 4410A's would be high passed at 50hz and the subs would be low passed at 50hz?
 
I would run the 4410's wide open, then you could turn off the sub if need be and not have to mess with your setup!:yes:
 
juniorJBL said:
I would run the 4410's wide open, then you could turn off the sub if need be and not have to mess with your setup!:yes:
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Could go either way; the difficult part (maybe not so difficult?) is finding a sub with both a crossover that goes down to 50 Hz and a bypass for when the sub's not being used. Best of both worlds in that case.
 
I guess I never saw what was upstream as far as pre/amp outputs so that is a very valid point.

Most times I put down about 3 outa 5 words that I ment and on top of that I can't type.:thumbsdn:
 
I like the idea of running the subs wide open. And as far as being able to bypass the subs when I want to, that would just be a matter of turning their amp off, because they would be running off their own amp. Yeah, the part that is going to require an additional step here though is the fact that the signal will be coming out of a two channel output and will need to be made into 4 channels to accommodate the subs. If I am running the 4410A's wide open, a traditional crossover won't work because it seems like they would all only high pass the highs and low passed lows. So what would be a great choice for a piece of gear that just duplicates the signals? -For the scenario where I get subs with a frequency adjustable low pass knob. ..or a piece of gear that can let the whole signal through to the 4410A's while applying a low pass for the lows?
 
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