JBL B460 Subwoofer QUESTION

[vannozzi]

Can someone please tell me what amplifier was commonly used with the JBL
B460 subwoofer?

What would be a good amplifier to use with the JBL B460, which I can locate and buy currently?

 

[wiredbecker]

I've been doing research for a pair of B380 subs lately and from what I've read, the best possible solution is to find the accompanying JBL BX63 or BX63A in order to properly control the output, crossover point and boost required for these subs. Without that device, you'll have a difficult time modeling the correct response and running this sub at its best.

Check it: http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?25554-Jbl-B460-Bx63a

and

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?6193-How-should-I-hook-up-my-B380

 

[jhal]

This is my grail sub, though i've never even seen one in person. I would probably say at least 800 watts RMS of clean power. A bridged high quality pro amp would probably do it real well.

 

[vannozzi]

Thanks wiredbecker,
Regarding the BX63 and Bx63A, were these required because the B460 sub had no internal passive crossover network, ( Basically an 18 inch low frequency speaker in a vented-tuned base reflex box)?

I have been considering the Dayton SA1000 sub amp with a built in subsonic crossover network.

My Denon AVR-3805 also has Sub-out outputs which may already seperate out the low frequency signal.

Were the the BX63 or Bx63A required back then because crossover frequencies were not built into the receivers/amps like they are today?

 

[vannozzi]

Thanks jhal,

The subject 18 inch driver is a JBL 2240H, 8 ohm, rated at 600w continuous.

The Dayton SA1000 sub amp with a built in subsonic crossover network puts out 497 watts into 8 ohms.

The Tech guy at Parts Express said he thought the Dayton SA1000 was over kill. What do you guys think?

 

[whoaru99]

IMO, since you're going to use the bass management from the Denon, I'd just get a straight power amp of the size you want rather than one of the packaged amps like that Dayton unit.

Probably could find a used (or maybe even new) pro amp for a couple hundred bucks, buy a MiniDSP and advanced software package for another $135, and still be money ahead plus have more power and more flexibility. Then, you could use Room EQ wizard to measure the room (free software with minimal hardware requirements), it will provide the necessary values for you to paste into the advanced MiniDSP plugin for room tuning.

 

[Jeffery]

The only problem with that is the BX63/63A had a boost contour that I'm not sure the Denon could replicate. We just had a thread about it, it was +6dB boost centered on 26Hz and falling off at 12dB/octave on either side. Not being familiar with the Denon, I can't say for sure that it can replicate this.

But I agree about just getting a good pro amp and using that.

 

[whoaru99]

You're right, the Denon can't duplicate that, but there are any number of other things that'll do a whole bunch more than BX63 that don't cost too much (IMO).

 

[grey]

I would look for a big, older Crown amp. that hasn't been beaten. It's just my preference. It should do fine with any big pro amp that's preferred by the pro crowd.

Macro-Tech
Possibly a K2 (No fan)

 

[whoaru99]

Behringer EP2500/EP4000 has quite a loyal following and good reputation for some VERY serious DIY sub folks.

 

[juniorJBL]

Thanks jhal,

The subject 18 inch driver is a JBL 2240H, 8 ohm, rated at 600w continuous.

The Dayton SA1000 sub amp with a built in subsonic crossover network puts out 497 watts into 8 ohms.

The Tech guy at Parts Express said he thought the Dayton SA1000 was over kill. What do you guys think?

That sub should NOT have a 2240H! It should be a 2245H.
Depending on what amp you get ( I would not use a plate amp with this driver) and what pre you have then it is a matter of using balanced or unbalanced signal.
The BX63 has done it for you already but is mono and unbalanced. If you want L and R subs then you will need 2 of these.

I have found that using a good 18db electronic XO and a good parametric eq, you can do very well and adjust for anomalies around the xo point.

As was said above get a good pro amp and you should be golden!:thmbsp:

 

[mech986]

Agree, the 18" driver in the B460 is the 2245H with foam surround. Other 224x drivers will fit, and some are higher power rated but will not work well in this cabinet, they'll roll off higher due to their stiffer surrounds (rolled cloth).

As for the amp, a Bridged Yamaha PC2002/2002M or PC2602M would be a very nice combo for this application. No fan on the 2002's, quiet fans on the PC2602. There are a couple of higher power Yamaha pro amps like the PC4002 or PC5002, bridged, wow, that would be overkill. But who doesn't like overkill???

Vanozzi, where are you located, this will provide some ideas as to what may be available locally to you (shipping these pro amps can get expensive).

 

[vannozzi]

I live in VEGAS.

 

[jhal]

If I ever get one (B460), my PC2602M will be allocated for powering it. Bridged, it puts out 800 watts RMS into 8 ohms.

Another M-2 will take it's place driving the woofers in my XPL-200A's.

I also have a Crown CE-2000 on the shelf, but I am torn on what to use it on. I may sell it to finance this sub endeavor, or it would be a good candidate for sub duty. I am just too much of a Yamaha fan when it comes to amps. The Crown was a score that was too good to pass up.

Since the B460's are rare and expensive, I am thinking about building a clone.

 

[gcarlberg]

My 2245 is driven with a JBL 6260, strapped putting out 600 watts.

I have used this amp with my 2235 ewaves in stereo mode.

I have experimented with Altecs, Crowns and Pioneers. Nothing makes those LF JBL's sing like a JBL amp. They are fairly frequent on the auction site for a cnote.

George

 

[scombridae]

I just built a B460 replica and I'm powering with the Dayton SA1000. I have it playing with a pair of JBL L220s through Mcintosh C2200 and a MC275. This combo plays so loud one can hear it down the street, though I tend not to upset others with my musical taste. It's sounds quite amazing and more musical than my friend's Wilson 15" $16,000 subwoofer. It plays very loud and suprisingly tight. The dayton allows me to adjust the crossover point, slope, phase and gain. It's more than enough amp in my opinion.

 

[scombridae]

I vote yes for the Dayton SA1000

 

[mech986]

I just built a B460 replica and I'm powering with the Dayton SA1000. I have it playing with a pair of JBL L220s through Mcintosh C2200 and a MC275. This combo plays so loud one can hear it down the street, though I tend not to upset others with my musical taste. It's sounds quite amazing and more musical than my friend's Wilson 15" $16,000 subwoofer. It plays very loud and suprisingly tight. The dayton allows me to adjust the crossover point, slope, phase and gain. It's more than enough amp in my opinion.

Wow, looks great! Was there a reason not to try to do the curved slope to the top front edge? What does yours look like with the grille?

 

[vannozzi]

Hi scombridae, You did a very nice job on your subwoofer! You should be proud! Kind regards, Mike Vannozzi

 

[Jon_Logan]

I just built a B460 replica and I'm powering with the Dayton SA1000. I have it playing with a pair of JBL L220s through Mcintosh C2200 and a MC275. This combo plays so loud one can hear it down the street, though I tend not to upset others with my musical taste. It's sounds quite amazing and more musical than my friend's Wilson 15" $16,000 subwoofer. It plays very loud and suprisingly tight. The dayton allows me to adjust the crossover point, slope, phase and gain. It's more than enough amp in my opinion.

It's funny you mention the Wilson sub. I used to work for a dealer of Wilson and I always thought their sub sucked. I was not enamored with their Watt Puppies either.