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JBL Decade L26

No need for pics, I just cracked these open and the woofers are cheap Realistic radio shack replacements. It looks like the crossover may have been worked on or replaced too, but I can't be sure yet. The woofers are crap.

The boxes are in great shape, though, and the tweeters are original. This could become a fun project nonetheless, at least I only gave the guy $25. Man, I really am a dolt. That's what you get buying some speakers that you know nothing about, on the fly...

If the cabs, grilles, and tweeters are in good shape, you still did OK. The 125A/127A woofers are out there and still relatively cheap.
The L26 is probably my favorite vintage two-way speaker, and IMO worth a little effort.
 
If the cabs, grilles, and tweeters are in good shape, you still did OK. The 125A/127A woofers are out there and still relatively cheap.
The L26 is probably my favorite vintage two-way speaker, and IMO worth a little effort.

That's what I'm thinking. So let the search for 125A's begin...unless anyone has any other ideas...
 
I believe there's three categories:

1) "Decade 26" came first. They'll say Los Angeles, CA at the bottom of the foilcal with LE25-2 tweets.

2) Early "A" models have LE25-4, but continued using "Decade 26" labels with an "A" added to the end of the serial number.

3) Later "A" models began using "Model L26" labels that say Northridge, CA....

Note JBL did offer replacement foilcals, so there might be exceptions that don't fit these categories.

Just to throw you a curve ball: Mine are a mismatched set. One of them has an "A" after the serial number and one doesn't. They both have the same tweeters and woofers and the foilcals both say "Northridge."

Without removing the drivers, I can see only one difference beside that "A," viz., the printed scales for the L pad indexes.

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Has anyone here replaced the woofer surrounds and used shims to keep the voice coil centered?

If so, how did you remove/reinstall the dust cap?
I like using the shim method when I replace surrounds, but these woofers do not have the usual convex shaped dust caps.

On normal shaped dust caps, I usually cut around 95% of the circumference, flip it up to install the shims, then re-glue it when all done.

Any help?
 
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