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JBL Driver for "Low End"

D

Dr.db

New Member
Hey folks,



im looking for some decent JBL Chassis for my home-audio set up.



Important is very dynamik and accurate bass reproduction.
They should be able to play 40hz with ease.....

Right now I got the JBL K-140's..... very nice speakers!!! But below 60hz there ain't anything serious.....



So my next speakers should add a little more to the low end.

But I do not want to miss the awesome dynamik attack which my JBL K-140's deliever.




Prevered are ALNICO Drivers!!

I reackon somethin between 12" - 15"....
The will run on a Harman/Kardon 930 Twin Powered with bout 40watts rms....

They won't be used as a PA, thats for shure.....

But some nice soundlevel should be possible ;-))



Ahhh, nearly forgot.... I could build the cabinet up to approx. 200liters big of netto volume...






All righty, thank you guys so much!!!

Olaf


PS.
What about the JBL 123a......?!?

Or rather JBL D123!?
 
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We're missing key information here. How high does it have to play?

K140 is a musical instrument woofer.

D123, more a midbass driver, is a "No."

123A(-1,3)/2212/13 is a "Yes."

LE14A is a "Yes."

LE15A is a "Yes," up to ~500 Hz.

LE15B is a "Yes."

2226 is not Alnico.
 
"If alnico isn't an absolute prerequisite"

He could recone the K140 with 2235 kits if he wanted or go with another pair of K frames.

Rob:)
 
Wow, I just got myself something to drink and I allready see 4 replies here :)

Great!!!



First of all to the major facts;

Im straight looking for Alnico-Woofers!
No Ferrit, Neodym etc....


The woofers will have to play up to around ~ 400hz.....





2226h is Ferrit if I remember right....!?


How bout the 2235 or 2245/2242?






So far the following speakers seem interesting;

123A(-1,3)/2212/13

LE14A

LE15A

LE15B


Could you be so nice and tell me a little about these speakers?
Because all I know is there are Alnico....


But how the differ in sound.....!??

How loud can they play?

And which enclosure's do they need for best performance?





Best Greetings from Germany,
Olaf
 
"First of all to the major facts;

Im straight looking for Alnico-Woofers!
No Ferrit, Neodym etc...."

Why?? You are limiting yourself by doing so. If you must have alnico you could drop 2235 kits into an alnico frame. The 2235/2245/2442 are all ferrite. The best and most easily obtainable JBL drivers for sub 40hz are all ferrite's.

The older alnico bass drivers like the Le-14A and the Le-15's have issues with X-Max compared to the newer drivers. The LE-15's are 40hz woofers like a 2226. Either an LE-14 or a 2235 would be a better choice.

LE-14A can work as subs but they need careful set-up. You have to watch the X-max and it helps if you can cross them over at or close too their X-max peak frequency.

Rob:)
 
bowtie427ss said:
If alnico isn't an absolute prerequisite, the 2235 would rank as my favorite JBL choice.
Click to expand...
Rob's suggesting build 2235s in Alnico frames. The info is on the Lansing Heritage Forum.

OP wants "punch." Leave out the mass rings for 2234. :thmbsp:

@Olaf: For the specifics, you're going to have to do your own research over on the Lansing Heritage website.... :yes:
 
Hi Rob,



well all Alnico Woofers I listened to so far had unbelievable dynamic.

They sound soo accurate and precise.....


Not that there are no good Ferrit or Neo's on the market.

Actually I can't put my statement to some facts.... i somehow like the old chassis... cant tell you why. Oldtimer's.... :yes:
 
powerman said:
136A or 2231A also 2205A or B reconed with C8R2235 All are Alnico
Click to expand...
Thanks, Powerman! Those also. :yes:

@Olaf: Go to the Lansing Heritage Forum and PM member "Guido" there.

He is a JBL reconer in Germany, and you will very likely recognize him.

Tell him your desires and our suggestons; he will fix you up.... :thmbsp:
 
Mhhhhh, I might should think about Ferrit Woofers as you all telling me.

I think you guys convinced me, Ferrit is the way to go when its supposed to handle deep bass.



The 2235 is no longer available and the 2226 is listed with around 450$ here in Germany....
Are there any reason to take the 2235 instead of the 2226?

2235 has 50% heavier cone, and less efficienty..... or is it better suited for low frequencies than the 2226?



Which enclosure size is best for the 2226 eg. 2235!? Something around the 200litres netto?



Maybe this is a little too big for me.....

Does the 2206 (12") work well as a low frequencie transducer??
In bout ~110litres netto.....



Thanks again and have a nice Tuesday!!
Olaf
 
2235H wants ~5 cuft.

Talk to Guido, like I said. He can make them out of 2225s.

2206 has less bass than 2226.

Run your box modeling software on these stock drivers to see what they'll do and the suggested volumes.

Look also to what JBL built with them, and how those products perform.... :yes:
 
I have a pair of 120ti drivers that can be reconed to be a 2214H. Any opinions of it's use as a subwoofer in a 4-way. I was thinking, 12" JBL, 5 1/4" Vifa (the one that is super flat forget the model) and Yamaha BE mids and tweeters.
 
I should mention however, that I have 4 subwoofers from an AR TSW-910 system I can use as subs instead. Unfortunately, that requires a pretty big cabinet.
 
I misspoke. The woofers are T120 car Subwoofers. I have the original box dimensions. Problem is, getting a recone kit for them, as the cones are way trashed from years of autosound abuse and texas heat.

They are identical to the 2214H from what I can tell when looking side-by-side. Only difference is the impedance.

And I am wondering, would that be better than pairings of AR9 woofers. Certainly a smaller box.
 
You'll have to run the box models and compare, and also verify that the baskets and motors are the same.

I don't think of 2214H as a particularly extended-bass woofer, but maybe.... :dunno:
 
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