JBL L100 capacitor suggestions
- Thread starter Thocom
- Start date
Thocom
Super Member
Hello, thanks for all the input. I’ll check out those caps. I did place a Sonicaps order this morning though.
which inductors? I don’t see any in this crossover?
You may have the later version.
I can’t see what the schematic values show as its not that great of a pix. Looks like 1.3mH and maybe a 2.mH. If your XO does not have inductors disregard
JBL is known to have used crappy quality inductors, super low gauge wore and usually glued together. All bad.
I’m hoping you JBL fans can help me. Yesterday, I picked up what was listed on CL as JBL-L26’s for $50 from a nice older couple. The 26’s are in great condition, but what I failed to realize was that there wasn’t a single label on either speaker. When I double-checked online to compare the look of my speaker to the L26’s, it didn’t match up. Can you all please help me identify this speaker? (dimensions are 18 x 11.5 x 10.5). The lady sent me a picture of the Brochure of her speakers (attached) Many many thanks!
Attachments
Thocom
Super Member
View attachment 1778540
You may have the later version.
I can’t see what the schematic values show as its not that great of a pix. Looks like 1.3mH and maybe a 2.mH. If your XO does not have inductors disregard
JBL is known to have used crappy quality inductors, super low gauge wore and usually glued together. All bad.
Yes, I think I have the later version, I think that’s a very early version of the L100, not many of them were made. I don’t think most of them have coils.
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Thocom
Super Member
Yeah, they certainly aren’t L26’s. Not even close.the L26’s driver has a concave dustcap as in this photo, and a port.
I would pull the driver and look at the label on it. Post a pic of it as well.
Natertots
Well-Known Member
I am no expert, but my guess is they are not JBL’s. I don’t recall ever seeing a JBL speaker with a label that size on the back. Your best bet is to make a separate post in the Speaker forum asking to help identify them.
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Thocom
Super Member
So, I think I’m going try this combination. Since I ordered the Sonicap (from AK sponsor, Sonicraft mind you) I grabbed the Audio cap Theta.
And.
this just in...
I am a moron. I only ordered two of them. So I am still going to use the Auricap on the bass. I’m going use the bypass on the high on one speaker and leave it off the other temp to see if I hear any artifacts that were suggested.
What do most people use on securing the caps from vibration/rattle? I used to use a hot glue gun, or tack-pack. (Can you tell I don’t do a lot of crossover work?)
thanks all.
And.
this just in...
I am a moron. I only ordered two of them. So I am still going to use the Auricap on the bass. I’m going use the bypass on the high on one speaker and leave it off the other temp to see if I hear any artifacts that were suggested.
What do most people use on securing the caps from vibration/rattle? I used to use a hot glue gun, or tack-pack. (Can you tell I don’t do a lot of crossover work?)
thanks all.
Thocom
Super Member
Not soldered yet.
I have mono amps. (MC30’s), mono recordings, etc.. a sound room and enough equipment for a comparison. A/B testing shouldn’t be too difficult.
Thocom
Super Member
after the crossover removal than re-install. I used a small amount of Weldwood contact cement in the corner than put some weight on it. Cannot tell the corner was lifted.
R Swerdlow
Active Member
In the L100A, there were no inductors. Here's an easier to read version of it's crossover.
The woofer runs unfiltered, and rolls off above ~3 kHz, without much noise or resonance.
The mid-range has a single cap and variable L-pad. Without a low pass filter, at least an inductor, it is a large source of unwanted noise. Here's it's unfiltered frequency response curve.
The tweeter in the L100A, isn't bad considering it's a cone tweeter from the early 1970s. Here's it's unfiltered frequency response curve.
Thocom
Super Member
Welp, I made new frames out of Walnut and cut some MDO inserts for grill cloth.
I picked blue. I’m kind of meh..
The blue is a little more transparent than I thought. Think I should have painted the frames blue.
I think I may make another set of frames from 1/2” MDO and cover with black or brown, maybe do one in orange to piss off my wife.
I picked blue. I’m kind of meh..
The blue is a little more transparent than I thought. Think I should have painted the frames blue.
I think I may make another set of frames from 1/2” MDO and cover with black or brown, maybe do one in orange to piss off my wife.
Brad1234
Active Member
View attachment 1778540
You may have the later version.
I can’t see what the schematic values show as its not that great of a pix. Looks like 1.3mH and maybe a 2.mH. If your XO does not have inductors disregard
JBL is known to have used crappy quality inductors, super low gauge wore and usually glued together. All bad.
I am struggling to figure out how to recap the JBL L100 Century(gen 1, inline) speakers. I have the crossover out and it just has a cardboard tube filled with epoxy and 6 wires coming out, blue white and green pairs. I have also tried to find a clear version of the tech schematic in this thread and it is not exactly legible on values of caps and how to wire them? I am not wanting to build a whole new crossover and just want to swap caps for now. Please help! I cant find any good info online for this recap job on the gen 1 L100's.
Attachments
R Swerdlow
Active Member
Is this easier to read?
Brad1234
Active Member
Ah yes, that is better. And I found another pdf of it in another forum that was clear. Thank you for sending! I finally figured out the crossover riddle for all of those wires sunk in that glob of glue. The thin green wired one is the 4uF cap and the yellow cap soldered to the connection rail is the 1uF cap. The blue and white wires are actually sleeves around the inductor wires, that clued me in on how to find the caps when I pulled back the wire sleeves a little to expose the solid inductor wire. I plan to just leave the inductors alone and replace the 2 caps and 2 resistors. It should be a piece of cake. Feel so relieved now. The caps both tested within 10%, surprising for 50 yr old caps!
Brad1234
Active Member
I know this is an old post, but I am in the process of experimenting with a gen 1 JBL L-100 crossover rebuild and wanting to keep it as close to original spec, so not wanting to do any of the crossover rebuild kits (eg Murphy). I restored a set of rough looking, sequential serial number L-100's and "extracted" the crossover from within the cabinet with a 1" hole saw to avoid removing the foilcals. It worked great! I replaced the caps but left the inductors buried in the glue tube in the xover, and the sound is now way too harsh and loud from mid and tweeter. It's clearer, just loud. I have decided to go back in and replace the 1 mH and .3 mH inductors with some Jantzen inductors to match the Jantzen cross caps I put in. I'm using the xover schematic from this post and elsewhere online for the gen 1 L-100. Does anybody have any experience with inductor replacement, specially with vintage JBL's? See pics of my restore...
View attachment 1778540
You may have the later version.
I can’t see what the schematic values show as its not that great of a pix. Looks like 1.3mH and maybe a 2.mH. If your XO does not have inductors disregard
JBL is known to have used crappy quality inductors, super low gauge wore and usually glued together. All bad.
View attachment 1778540
You may have the later version.
I can’t see what the schematic values show as its not that great of a pix. Looks like 1.3mH and maybe a 2.mH. If your XO does not have inductors disregard
JBL is known to have used crappy quality inductors, super low gauge wore and usually glued together. All bad.