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JBL Speaker Refoaming

I was a bit worried that the plastic ring woulden't come off......you made it look easy !!!

Done right there's hardly any glue on the side, it's mostly just glued to the foam, so when the foam goes it's pretty easy. Looked like the factory glue too,.
 
Still considering it here. Read a bit more on the web. Read over Rick Cobb's installation notes again.......

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Had my ohmmeter out at this point. The slightest touch of the cone sent it moving so I knew there wasn't a whole lot of clearance in there. I also couldn't adjust the cone up or down and have it stay in place for the gluing of the foams. My hearing is also screwed up from too many rock concerts so I was worried about not hearing that "slight" scrape. Shims it is.

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Me too! I've love to see a detailed walk-though of a complete restore of a Pioneer SX-1250 receiver. But that's for a different forum.
 
Still considering it here. Read a bit more on the web. Read over Rick Cobb's installation notes again.......

If you have the proper black glue, go for it. Leave a little bit of the cap un-cut and just fold it back to put the shims in. Paper strips work well or even a complete tube of paper. <EDIT> I see you did just that...<END>

IMO, the best way is what works. I've gone as far as putting the glue on the basket and then found the cone would not center. If you hurry, you can un-stick the surround from the frame and shim. On one set of JBL 122A's I had to take the cone completely out of the frame to repair the voice coils. They had one turn that was loose from being run with no foam...

On another, the magnet had shifted on the basket, so I had to loosen the screws and re-center it. From the pics, it looks like the surround fits good, so the CD should work.:thmbsp:

BTW, the ohmmeter moves because the voice coil is actually generating current when you move the cone. Some meters don't much like voltage applied to the Ohms scale inputs...
 
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I like how the cone stays where I want it to with shims. This helps with the gluing process, especially if you want to hit the basket and the foam with a thin layer of glue. Absolutely no chance of voice coil scraping or having to move things while the glue is setting up. I know that many people have used the 30 hz cd successfully. I was more comfortable with this method. Absolutely the hardest dust cap I have ever cut into. It's as thick as a brick! Took three passes, steady nerves and a sharp knife to make it happen. EBay's GeoAli provided the shims from a previous job. The dust cap flap idea was from his instructions also. Keep the knife parallel to the cone and cut just above the original glue.

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Inside edge of the foam. Foams are behind the cones on these ones.

Shims are allowing me to keep the cone clear of the foam until I have all the glue on.

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Rick Cobb said to wait 4 hours after gluing the inside edge before moving to the outside edge. His glue tacks up and sets much faster than other glue that I have used. Depending on the weather it tacks up in just a few minutes. I used the end of my glue brush to put pressure all around the outside edge.

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Steady hand here. One bead all the way around to seal the cone to the foam.

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Another bead on the very outside edge for the black plastic ring. Make sure it's clean before you set into the glue. I put some on the basket here too. Also a bit of glue for the ends of the ring.

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Look at the thickness of that cap! It's a monster. A thin bead on both edges. Let it tac up and press them together. Make sure the internals are spotless with no pieces of anything left behind. I used a small vacuum.

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