JICO SAS Discontinued

[boreas]

Thanks! Two-piece cantilever with a blue dot and apparently no tie wire, very suggestive of what an EVG would look like. I wonder whether JICO makes them.

And pretty sure it ain't Swiss.

By the way, it looks as if you're about to lose one of the pivot caps. It might be fun to take it all the way off and inspect the pivot for any sort of damping fluid.

John

 

[boreas]

Thanks! I noticed the cap but i couldn't tighten it. No time to play with it right now. Back to mudding cracks in old plaster walls.

Make sure you carve them out first. Gotta get that mud in the crack, not just on it.

 

[kaplang]

Finally got off my butt and ordered the SAS for the V15VMR from turntableneedles.com (still in stock as of my typing this.) Thanks for the heads-up, noisemodule.

My crystal ball tells me the prices are going up. Way up!

 

[skandl]

order a backup VN5MR SAS when I found out just to be on the safe side.

 

[ETI_5000]

The hyperbolic stylus shape was Shure’s first line contact tip, and was only ever used on one cartridge, their CD-4 quadraphonic cartridge, the M24H.

As part of their research into the V15 Type IV, they produced a much better line contact stylus, the hyperelliptical, and so never used the hyperbolic stylus tip shape ever again. The hyperbolic can be thought of as being between the 0.2 x 0.7mil elliptical and the HE in performance, but much closer to the elliptical.

 

[empirelvr]

Do the caps just pry off with a jeweler's screwdriver? Not that I'm going to have time any time soon . . .

They are VERY easy to pry off, on either OEM or JICO's version of the damper. Way easier than I expected. I am able to do it with a fingernail!

 

[GrampaDave]

Another good tool to pry off the caps is an Xacto knife. I also employed a magnifier headband.

 

[boreas]

I wonder why I can't pop the "loose" one back on. It's not loose. It's just crooked.

Try popping it off first. It's probably wedged tightly as a result of being crooked. I recommend doing it on a bath towel.

 

[WaynerN]

Try popping it off first. It's probably wedged tightly as a result of being crooked. I recommend doing it on a bath towel.

Only if your on the couch...........or carpet.

 

[boreas]

Yes, 4773 is for the V15V "non-x" but that isn't what the seller's photo appears to be. It looks like a stylus in the Pfanstiehl's 4771 group which is for a brushless aftermarket version of the Era IV M97, not the xE. If this is true, then it won't fit the V15/V because the shank would be too big. As far as I know, there never was a Pfanstiehl number for the V15Vx or M97x, with or without brush.

If you want to talk to the seller again, I'd suggest showing him this and ask him what's different about the stylus he's selling.

John

 

[noisemodule]

Here we go!

View attachment 701349 View attachment 701347 View attachment 701348

Just to offer my two cents: I can't confirm or deny (not to be coy, I just don't have enough info) that the stylus in the photos is made by JICO, but I will say that it looks a LOT like a JICO VN45HE. Like, exactly...to me anyway, for what it's worth. I will try to compare more thoroughly and post pictures when I have a chance.

 

[GrampaDave]

A couple years ago I set up a microscope and compared my old VN45SAS to a newer aftermarket N97xE that matches needlestein's photos that noisemodule refers to in post #367 above. The two grips were identical, right down to tiny molding blemishes. Noisemodule, does that prove that my aftermarket part is JICO, or do others have access to the same grips or molds?

 

[GrampaDave]

No, I tested an aftermarket N97xE, not genuine Shure. It looked just like your pictures. I don't recall the seller.

 

[boreas]

A couple years ago I set up a microscope and compared my old VN45SAS to a newer aftermarket N97xE that matches needlestein's photos that noisemodule refers to in post #367 above. The two grips were identical, right down to tiny molding blemishes. Noisemodule, does that prove that my aftermarket part is JICO, or do others have access to the same grips or molds?

It could mean that the mold was pulled off of an original or it could just mean that the "sprue" on the replacement and the original both emanate from the same places. It's usually the spot where the sprue is nipped off that leaves the blemish.

John

 

[GrampaDave]

I'm not talking about sprues. (But thanks for the link.) The blemishes I am talking about are only visible under a microscope. A tiny pit here, a little crease there. And it's like this everywhere. The "fingerprints" match. The two parts came out of the exact same mold.

 

[boreas]

I'm not talking about sprues. (But thanks for the link.) The blemishes I am talking about are only visible under a microscope. A tiny pit here, a little crease there. And it's like this everywhere. The "fingerprints" match. The two parts came out of the exact same mold.

Certainly possible and even likely but, again, it's still possible that they were one was made using a mold made using actual parts from the other as a pattern.

John

 

[GrampaDave]

Hmm, I hadn't thought of that. Could be, I guess. I wouldn't know how to tell the difference between the same mold, and a mold copied from a part. Would all features be exactly the same? And I mean exactly.

 

[boreas]

Hmm, I hadn't thought of that. Could be, I guess. I wouldn't know how to tell the difference between the same mold, and a mold copied from a part. Would all features be exactly the same? And I mean exactly.

Exactly? Probably not.

John

 

[GrampaDave]

They were the same down to the last detail. I could not detect any generation loss.

 

[wualta]

Now you can custom-tune your brush to hit that 1-3 sec fall rate by putting in some 50k or 80k or 100k cSt silicone diff oil.