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JOLIDA JD9 Shenda vs Maryland + Review

Another Difference!

Hello All,

Just got back in town and had to read this thread. From looking at Brett's and Mine they seem to be the same except that my wiring is twisted and my serial number is like the other two, but mine is an older pre breakup Maryland version.

Here are a couple of shots.

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If you will notice the Maryland's have a little board next to the transformer. Ignore the little white box as I added that because it was sitting around. :D
 

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Found it!

...If you will notice the Maryland's have a little board next to the transformer. Ignore the little white box as I added that because it was sitting around. :D

Yes it looks like it's just a jumper. On the Shenda units they saved the labor and parts and simply terminated the wires together at the switch. Good idea, I wonder why they even had the jumper before....:scratch2:



Well, two 14.5 Hr work days down and one more to go tomorrow but I managed to get a look at the output board circuit. (Wow, disclaimer, I just had to retype that last line 4 times... I'm so tired)

The High/Low Output board was not easy to remove. It's actually soldiered on to the the RCA's after they were mounted into the chassis. I was hoping I could remove the RCA's out of the chassis to get a look at the board but I had to de-soldier them from the board to look at the back side. I'm not too upset because I wanted to reflow the soldier connections anyway.

Here's what I found!!! To my extreme surprise the caps are installed as a low signal high pass filter. This is a real head scratcher because I worked out the high pass frequency using a trim pot value of 50% and it gave me a high pass frequency of 25 Khz. (high pass frequency) HPF = 1 /(2 X 3.14 X R in ohms X C in farrads) Hmm..... High, Pass... meaning it only passes frequencies above 25 Khz????

Yes, to a certain degree. In actual practice what these caps are doing is accenting the highs above that mark. All the frequencies are equal between the high outputs and the low outputs until it reaches the HPF from there it passes more high frequencies compared to the high output signal giving the low outputs a different frequency curve compared to the high outputs.:boring:

What this means to us? Well because the HPF is dependent on the trim pot setting, it's not a consistent HPF. Furthermore, my particular JD9 had two different values of capacitance. The 4 capacitors are actually oriented in parallel two per side thus adding their values. I read 100pF in parallel with a 27pF on the left channel and 100pF in parallel with a 20pF on the Right. This difference is very minor and I doubt anyone could hear the difference between left and right on my JD9 but it still shows the quality issues that the Shenda Jolidas may have.

So, it looks like the Shenda JD9's will have a slightly brighter sound on the low outputs as compared to the high outputs. The JD9s with the capacitors removed will not have any difference in sound between the high and low output RCA from the JD9. Perhaps everyones system down the link will sound different due to the different gain coming from the JD9 but it's my opinion that the frequency response between the high outputs and low outputs of the JD9s without caps on the output boards are identical. This can be proven mathematically.

This whole circuit is very unorthodox and poses many holes by which the frequency response could be uneven between the Right and Left channels. I can post or PM if anyone wants to see a schematic.

I'll be removing my capacitors from the output board to match the Maryland units displayed here. Thanks again fellas for the participation as it's led me to find this little quirk and repair it. I'm left to wonder what the designer was thinking and I can only come up with one answer, I believe the two positions currently occupied by capacitors per channel on my JD9 was originally placed there for the option to place output loading caps to compensate for various RCA cables, perhaps another dip switch bank.... (It's a stretch) How the Shenda factory decided to put caps in there and select the values they did is beyond me. I wonder if they selected different caps on one channel to compensate for a slightly varied trim pot postion.... Just thinking out loud... I'm going to bed now.:boring:
 
Your' sketch looks like something I would expect to see on the input side for cartridge loading. Are you sure you're looking at the output?
 
Can't you test the values of the trimpot in circuit since it is a resistor?

Very nice write up by the way, this just gets more interesting all the time.

Do you think the jumper might be something for 110 or 220 as mine says 110V on the jumper itself they might have a transformer they can plug in to step the 220 down to 110 without changing the rest. Otherwise I would see no reason for it either.

Your' sketch looks like something I would expect to see on the input side for cartridge loading. Are you sure you're looking at the output?

Yes that is the output, no question.
 
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Can't you test the values of the trimpot in circuit since it is a resistor?....

Funny, I just did this and came online to post and saw your suggestion. I found my pots set roughly 13.1 Kohms and 12.4 Kohms. Because of the discrepancy I checked the waves with an 1 KHz sine wave in and noticed both left and right channels amplitude were right on with each other. No adjustments required.

The 13.1 Kohms gives us a high pass frequency of 103.3 KHz so it's not likely that we will hear that. So, I can't really explain why those caps are there or even why the output board has those placements that are labeled for caps. None the less, I still removed them from the circuit. I didn't hear a difference but that's not surprising as a good deal of time went by while I did the work and got it hooked back up.
 
Thanks for the great in depth write up MuthaFunk! I too have a "Maryland" JD9 and have had it for almost a year now and truly love it. I have changed the original tubes to Baldwin greenies and am going to change the output caps to Clarity`s here shortly. I also added some resonance damping material on the bottom. I will try to take and post some pic`s before I do the cap change.
 
Completely based on the opinions on this forum, I just ordered myself a Jolida JD9.
It is supposed to be a 'genuine' (whatever that means) one and will arrive next week.
It should be a huge step up from my cambridge 540p...:D
 
Completely based on the opinions on this forum, I just ordered myself a Jolida JD9.
It is supposed to be a 'genuine' (whatever that means) one and will arrive next week.

all JD9's are "genuine" just some are made by one company, and others are made by another. where did you order from? and how much did you pay?

personally i feel that if you plan on upgrading anyway, the $320 price from china is a much better deal. the $450 "maryland" will just get you a few better solder joints, and a few less caps. which you can fix anyway. not worth the extra $130.

im sure you will be addicted to it either way when it arrives, its a great box for the price! congrats.
 
Well I went for the safe route and bought from a 'local' dealer, Tubophile. They have a workshop in France (I live in Belgium) so if in case something goes wrong...
I paid 380 euro, which included shipping.
I would indeed pay less shipping it from china, but I'd like to have some kind of warranty, and customs in Belgium are often a PITA and overcharge...
Nevertheless, there is no way back now. I wired the money :)
 
Great thread! IMO--- It would be a good idea to merge this one into this one

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=344317

For the record... my JD9 has the the 4 little caps on the output board but my solder looks good. However, it is possible that my unit may have been re-soldered because it had gone through a 'professional' upgrade before I bought it

I think I'll leave my little caps on the board. Is there a SIMPLY way to check the output level from the "Low Output" to check the balance and perhaps adjust the trim pods? Or if it 'sounds' okay dont worry about it :)
 
I already put a link in that thread to this one on the first page I think...

I would suggest if it sounds balanced and centered when playing music that is mixed in the center i.e. vocals, I'd leave it well alone. The only real way to make sure you are getting a perfect balance between channels is to use a scope and a frequency generator. Run a full frequency spectrum through the preamp and overlay the waves from Channel R and L on top of each other... From there, you can observe any variance and make adjustments accordingly.

A multimeter will give you a RMS voltage reading and won't be accurate enough IMO to calibrate the outputs. I suppose if you had a record with a mono 1KHz track as many test records do you could use that as your signal source but I think you'll still want to scope to match the waves via the adjustment pots.
 
Were to buy my cd player

I buying a new cd player and the reviews on the Jolida 100 i've seen are great.
do i buy it from jolidia.net or at jolidia.com or do i just stay away for jolida stuff.
i have a jd9 and love it.
 
Jolida.net was responsive and I had my jd-9 in a timely fashion. I did receive a few e-mails with Chinese characters, but I was able make sense of everything.
 
I buying a new cd player and the reviews on the Jolida 100 i've seen are great.
do i buy it from jolidia.net or at jolidia.com or do i just stay away for jolida stuff.
i have a jd9 and love it.

i think this thread has proven the designs are in fact the same. as jolida.net states on their site and that they are not lying.

personally it would be a no-brainer for me - for 300$ less...i would go for jolida.net

i've ordered direct from jolida.net and had very good communication, fast shipping and insanely well packed product.
 
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