JOLIDA JD9 Shenda vs Maryland + Review

[Brett a]

Brett-
You really have a beutiful setup. I like it very much!

I'm a subscriber to the "official threat as well."

I created the guide as a way somebody could easily complete those 4 mods. I found instructions scattered, here and there, but it was often times difficult to piece together. Also, some of the close up pictures were not always adequate,.. ie solder points, etc. Hopefully people looking to mod their JD9 will find this helpful.

Thanks for the kind words.

I think you can consider your efforts a success! I probably used the same sub-optimal pictures you're referring to. And when i was heading in, I really needed someone to point me to exactly where to new solder points should be. You've done a lot of people a service w/that one.

:thmbsp:

 

[demarco]

Hey guys,

I thought I would toss my pictures into the ring. Recently I ordered a demo model off of musicdirect.com. It seems to have arrived from the Maryland company as the manual that came with it listed the jolida.com site. Note a few different things in recent times. I'm sorry if this is public knowledge now, I thought I would share my noticeable differences between other pictures on this thread.

First, it seems they have dropped the "high output" and "low output" on the rear of the unit. I looked at the manual to find out which was which at first.

Second, I noticed the unit to have some very clean soldered points. Even the wiring seems less hectic compared to the Shenda models. In the photo's below you'll a 100nj 400v capacitor on the other side of the board. Is this new? I don't really have an eye for schematics or know wether a capacitor should be in a certain spot or not, but this seems different to me. Correct me if im wrong!

3rd, Tung Sol's. I feel I saw these on other units. No Jolida brand, no EH.

and finally the output capacitors seem to be different from the eye. I've noticed on other units they are blue and shaped differently, mine is black 250v 1uf and seem to have the jolida logo on them.

Let me know if you see any other updates in the pictures below! Sorry if they are big!

 

[Frank Sol]

demarco

what do they say about Output 1 & 2 ? The same ?

 

[]eep]

In the photo's below you'll a 100nj 400v capacitor on the other side of the board. Is this new?

Yes it is. The JD9F2.PCB is a new revision. My original JD9 has a JD9F1.PCB and has no C204. I can't see the traces so I can't tell either but my guess is it is to do with power since it's only one. It's soldered on the wrong side too for some strange reason. Probably not done in the Chinese factory.
The new 1µF generic film coupling capacitor looks like a poor excuse for an upgrade too. Not really a selling point, and only half the value. Why not put something nice in there straight away? So you can sell expensive upgrades?

Small remark about the photo's: try to take them in daylight instead of using flash and make a pan of the whole PCB head-on, or more of it anyway. Like you did of the K1 PCB. This will make it a bit more informative. I know making a clear picture of a PCB isn't always easy.

 

[mackat]

But is there a high and a low output?

 

[]eep]

I wouldn't expect this to change. It's a sales argument. And in my experience delivering 27V max to the input of your amp is way, way, way too much for some. Like my spare Muse DT-50 T-amp that has a PT2314 input processor which acts quite allergic.

Some more tips I remembered after some further reading on vinyl-engine:
- on the input board, fiddle around with different values till you are satisfied. And then take it out aaltogether like I did and replace it with 1 discrete good quality carbon composite resistor like Allen-Bradley or Takman. Cap likewise.
- the swith for MM-MC acts likewise only it is IIRC not in the signalpath. If you take it out R=inf (or >1MOhm) and you get the lowest but finest amplification.

MC low= 95-db gain = resistor value of 33 ohms
MC High= 85-db gain = resistor value of 100 ohms
MM= 70-db gain = resistor value of 1k or 1000 ohms
+trafo=+/-55-dB gain = no dipsw=>1MOhm

The lower the resistor the higher the amplification of the opamps. As you can calculate there is not really any point in combining switches. You will get 25, 90 or 24 Ohms combining 2 or 3 switches so hardly any difference with MC-high or overloading.

You can however tune to your own liking by trying a 510 Ohm (aprx 75dB), 62 Ohm (aprx 90dB) or anything inbetween so as to be able to avoid the slightly lesser quality low-output. The resistor won't cost $0.25 but needs to be close torerated (brown 1% or red 2% stripe, not silver or gold). This way the lesser gain you can get away with using the high-output the better the sound.

 

[demarco]

Oh yeah guys, output 1 is low and 2 is high.

Thanks for the tips jeep, a bit of your info in the last post is very much out of my league. Although one day I will replace the output caps, opamp and tubes, but removing the input board doesn't sound like something I want to do in case I grab a new tt. I'll try and get around to taking more pics of the pcb!

 

[stereo70bees]

jolida jd 9 and jd 200 cd player

I am looking to buy from china or hong kong a jd 200 6 tube cd player whats the safest way to buy one of these players to guarantee getting it I also just ordered a jd9 in black from maryland I love my modified jd 5t with its passive output jacks direct Have 2 jd 100 cd players one 8 years old and one 3 years old Also the rare jd 50 remote volume control its eaiser to reach me at stereo70bees@HOTMAIL.COM

 

[skandl]

Hey guys,

I thought I would toss my pictures into the ring. Recently I ordered a demo model off of musicdirect.com. It seems to have arrived from the Maryland company as the manual that came with it listed the jolida.com site. Note a few different things in recent times. I'm sorry if this is public knowledge now, I thought I would share my noticeable differences between other pictures on this thread.

First, it seems they have dropped the "high output" and "low output" on the rear of the unit. I looked at the manual to find out which was which at first.

Second, I noticed the unit to have some very clean soldered points. Even the wiring seems less hectic compared to the Shenda models. In the photo's below you'll a 100nj 400v capacitor on the other side of the board. Is this new? I don't really have an eye for schematics or know wether a capacitor should be in a certain spot or not, but this seems different to me. Correct me if im wrong!

3rd, Tung Sol's. I feel I saw these on other units. No Jolida brand, no EH.

and finally the output capacitors seem to be different from the eye. I've noticed on other units they are blue and shaped differently, mine is black 250v 1uf and seem to have the jolida logo on them.

Let me know if you see any other updates in the pictures below! Sorry if they are big!

A few months ago I received a JD 5T from Maryland and it has the same 1uf 250v caps in it. From popular opinion here is it worth the trouble to replace them, and if so can I wire them to the back of the board like others had done in their modifications of the JD9? I will be ordering a JD9 soon and would like to know a work around to removing the whole board, thanks in advance.