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Just another Rek-O-Kut Rondine Jr L34 restoration thread

Davisonxmp

New Member
Hopefully this thread will provide some future person a point of reference the way that I have used other threads on this site for my own reference.

I'm going to put my questions in bold as I come across them. Hopefully there are a few people who can help me out. I recently picked up a Rek-O-Kut Rondine Jr L34 from an auction. I paid around $200 for it which I feel is on par for what it is. I'm looking for any and all advice on restoration. I've spent some time reading through other's threads on similar tables but I'm not versed enough to follow along with all of it.

I started by plugging it in and low and behold, it worked. It was spinning slower than expected which I'm guessing is because of the condition of the idlers. The motor itself seems to be working properly. Then I moved on to disassembling everything and kind of taking stock on what all I had.

I believe the tonearm is an ESL S-1000 from Ortofon. I have the original head shell as well. This tonearm has the rotated diamond pattern instead of the standard square one. The head shell is not in great shape. It's missing the lift lever and the wiring needs help. I have a soldering iron on the way but I have never soldered anything before so that will be interesting. I'm guessing that I'll have to attach new leads into the head shell because the old ones are not great.

The wiring that comes out of the tonearm is also in very bad shape. Does anyone have experience with this tonearm specifically and rewiring? I'm hoping it's a relatively simple task that I can do with not much experience.

My plan is to get an Ortofon bronze or blue, still up in the air.

Unfortunately the tonearm is missing the counterweight so if anyone has a line on where I can pick one up (whether oem or a generic that is compatible), please let me know. I spent a few minutes searching online and wasn't able to find much information.

The board it all runs to is stored inside, along with the power cord, and it runs out of the bottom through a square hole cut in the corner. So my plan is to wire a new plug coming out of the back of the box, but I'm looking for recommendations on a female RCA board to mount to the back instead of having it hardwired. If you have suggestions on a decent one that looks nice, please send it my way.

My plan is to also hard wire a nice looking on/off switch on the top rather than just relying on sliding the knob from 33 to 45. Will there be negatives to this if it's left on 33 and turned off via a switch instead?

I have read plenty about replacing the isolating washers so I will be ordering a set of those asap. I'm still unsure about replacing vs refinishing the idler wheels.

I am very new to working on small motors like this. If anyone has advice on things that are critical to do, please let me know. I have access to electrical tools so if there are tests I can use to ensure that it's running at full capacity, that would be great.

My plan for aesthetics include building a new box. I purchased a few board feet of some figured walnut. I'll be building a 16(w)x16(d)x6(h) which is what the original box is. I also have some padauk and yellowheart that I'll be using to put two small strips that go up the front side, cross the surface, then go down the rear. I'm trying to replace all the hardware with brass which I think will end of clashing with the tonearm, but I can't afford to pick up a black tonearm to even out the look.

Before pictures are all below, I'll be building the box this week and will continue to post updates as I make progress. Thanks in advance for all the help.

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I wouldn't bother with that tonearm. It's missing the end stub in addition to the weight, and besides, the overhang is fixed, so you're stuck with whatever cartridge you align the mounting for.

It's also way too heavy for an Ortofon bronze or blue - it wants something with low compliance, like a DL-103. Sell it for parts and move on!
 
The good news is you got a later one; the one I used to own (and rebuilt) had the square "Borg Death Cube" motor, which inherently ran very hot.

ROK's are prone to rumble even when working properly, so do not build another box-style plinth. Instead, build a massive stacked plywood plinth and then finish it with the nice wood on the outside.

See: https://www.stereophile.com/content/listening-121
 
I wouldn't bother with that tonearm. It's missing the end stub in addition to the weight, and besides, the overhang is fixed, so you're stuck with whatever cartridge you align the mounting for.

It's also way too heavy for an Ortofon bronze or blue - it wants something with low compliance, like a DL-103. Sell it for parts and move on!

Do you have any preferences on a lower cost tonearm to replace it with? I'm talking $200 or less, hopefully.
 
Do you have any preferences on a lower cost tonearm to replace it with? I'm talking $200 or less, hopefully.

I used it with both an SME 3009 and mono ROK Model 160.

Some of the older Audio Technica arms can be found in your price range.

I would aim for something that at a minimum allows for cartridge alignment adjustment, which many inexpensive period arms do not.

If you can expand your budget, these look intriguing:
http://www.karmadon.net/shop/klon-tonarma-gray-108/
 
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Cant get my photos to show for some reason. I'll try and fix it.

Made some progress today. I built the internal layered housing for stability. It'll eventually get trimmed out in walnut but for now it's made out of 3/4" lauan.
https://i.imgur.com/7ZnTveH.jpg)

This is the walnut I'll use for the finished top piece as well as the sides
https://i.imgur.com/9uMDIKK.jpg

And I'll add in two stripes, one of paduak, and one of yellowheart seen here
[Imgur](https://i.imgur.com/NfMz7yZ.jpg)

New vs original. The original was basically a hollow shell. The new one is smaller because it'll be finished out with the nicer wood.
https://i.imgur.com/sRbXmrs.jpg

Not perfect, but as good as I can do with a band saw. When I go to make the final top piece I will use a more precise scroll saw.
https://i.imgur.com/GHHN8Pf.jpg

Test fitting. I Wanted to make sure it looked like enough airflow space underneath. I'm still debating on whether or not I should close off the bottom or leave it open so it can stay cooler.
https://i.imgur.com/QFP7cjt.jpg

The first part of the top piece getting glued.
https://i.imgur.com/8LsyNSP.jpg
Once this is dry I'll cut it down again and glue in strips of the other two pieces of wood. Once that is finished, I'll figure out the exact measurement of the top piece and then start working on cutting and mitering the side pieces.

I also ordered a new set of rubber grommets that will be here on Tuesday. I don't think I'll need to have the idler wheels refinished because when I plugged it in and tested it, it was spinning at the correct speed on both 33 and 45.

I also received the RCA mounts today.
https://i.imgur.com/vdpxSwX.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hrePZFz.jpg
They are Amphenol flange mounts. Once the box is all assembled I'll start cutting holes for these as well as the power cord. I'm still debating on whether I want to wire a cord or if I want to use an IEC connector then make my own detachable cord.

Also I'm still trying to decide what kind of tonearm to go with. I'm trying to find something used but it'll be a month or so before I'm completely finished with the box and everything so I have some time.
 
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https://i.imgur.com/OYw7Kpt.jpg
just one photo today. The padauk and yellowheart strips are cut and the whole top is now drying. Once this is done I’ll trim it down to size then I can start framing out the sides. The strips will ‘waterfall’ down the front and the back which won’t be easy to line up but thankfully I’m better at woodwork than I am at electrical repair.
 
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A decent update today, making some real progress.

The top is glued up, trimmed, and the first round of sanding.
https://imgur.com/Xqw3EpK
https://imgur.com/jZ5MiQ6
https://imgur.com/YeRqLip
https://imgur.com/cmHXp03
https://imgur.com/8DFiK94

This monstrosity is the two side pieces glued up. They are very long and I only have bar clamps long enough to clamp these. So, in order to stop it from bowing, there are two pieces clamped on top and bottom to keep it straight. Looks like a mess but it should come out nice and neat.
https://imgur.com/flusLhN

I received the female plug for the back as well as the new dampening washers from ebay.
https://imgur.com/OxVR06x
https://imgur.com/jpGPOeL

So now I'm still working on finding a tonearm. Trying to pick one up around $200 so if you have an idea on a used one, send it my way. Tomorrow I will finish the front and back pieces and cut the two remaining side pieces. Still trying to decide whether I should box joint or miter the sides. Open to opinions on that. I would dovetail if I was better at woodwork..
 
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