just picked up an sx 1250....some issues..no sound, blowing fuses, etc

[markthefixer]

just to clerify...those diodes are going in place of d2, d4, and d6? i'm assuming so since they have the same model numbers...just want to be sure...also, the ones on the board have a yellow strip at what I imagine is the cathode since there's a circle on the board...the new ones have a barely visible black one..is this also the cathode?

yes, d2,4,6

yes, the stripes signify cathode. most are black stripes nowadays.

with the similar appearances between the zeners and the general purpose diodes, that is why we are careful to keep them in their packages until we are ready to install them.


while you are working on the board, look for this / these circular (transistor) symbols, for later reference, notice how the circle is pierced by three lines (the leads) and the letters e b c near the piercings, and how the transistors are installed, if possible looking at their numbers and the ecb and bce arrangements I list for those numbers:

The "2S" is usually omitted on less formal conversations, and when space is limited - like on the face of a transistor...
Q1: 2SD313P-E D313 to-220 bce
Q2: 2SC869-D C869 to-92 bce
Q3: 2SC1318-R C1318 to-92 ecb
Q4: 2SC1384-R C1384 to-92 ecb
Q5: 2SB507P-E B507 to-220 bce
Q6: 2SA628A-D A628 to-92 ecb
Q7: 2SA720-R A720 to-92 ecb
Q8: 2SA684A-R A684 to-92 ecb
Q9: 2SD325R-E D325 to-220 bce
Q10: 2SC945A-R D945 to-92 ecb
Q11: 2SC945A-R D945 to-92 ecb
Q12: 2SD325R-E D325 to-220 bce
Q13: 2SC945A-R D945 to-92 ecb

you will notice to-220's are usually bce, while the 2s type to-92's are usually ecb & bce
my to-126 replacements (which I haven't shown) are usually ecb.
I substituted the to-126's for to-92's in some places because the bigger to-126 package can dissipate more heat than a to-92, keeping it cooler and allowing it to live a lot longer.

PLEASE READ these links for transistor pictures and explanations, told quite informatively, with a LOT of stuff you need to have at least read:

to-92:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TO92

to-220: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TO220

plus if you can stand to wade through this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transistor
AT LEAST the first page or so, and the first picture,
what we are using is the bipolar junction transistor, or BJT
it will give you plenty of background....

AND - it just as it gets DEEP, a section or so later it drops back to more understandable, and drops some useful general information into your lap as a reward for sticking around. This happens all the way to the end.

 

[91rtstealth]

ok...diodes are done as well as the trim pots....just to clarify: I just line up the trim pots the only way they would fit, correct? there's 1 lead on one side, and 2 leads on the other...seems to be only one way to fit into the board...

I ran into a problem..the foil (I think that's what it's called...it's whatever helps the solder stick to the point you are soldering) came off one of the solder points, so I can't get a good solder joint...I tried to heat up the lead a lot and get some solder down into the hole...it seems ok, but i'm not sure if it will suffice...what do you think?

other than that...what's next? i'm a little confused by these symbols by the transistors...i see a circle with some lines through it..no letters....

 

[markthefixer]

trimpots, yes

solder doesn't go in the hole, bend the lead over to hold the foil down before soldering, clean/scrape the green off until back at glued down foil area, follow the scraped foil with the lead (bending the lead to match foil trace) as far as possible. don't go off the foil with the lead. solder entire length of lead to foil.

<snip>
other than that...what's next? i'm a little confused by these symbols by the transistors...i see a circle with some lines through it..no letters....

I wish people would read and follow the whole post.

IF you had followed advice, you shouldn't be...:

plus if you can stand to wade through this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transistor
AT LEAST the first page or so, and the first picture,
what we are using is the bipolar junction transistor, or BJT
it will give you plenty of background....

AND - it just as it gets DEEP, a section or so later it drops back to more understandable,and drops some useful general information into your lap as a reward for sticking around. This happens all the way to the end.

you would have seen this:

and this:

e is always the arrow on one angled line (direction can be out (npn) or in (pnp) towards the base)
b is always the flat line the other two lines come out if at an angle
c is always the angled line without the arrow

letters can be smudged or illegible, while the symbols are hard to mistake and pretty language independent
pioneer doesn't use letters, if there is a symbol. sometimes in a linear hole arrangement, there is only an 'e'.... with no room for a symbol.

plus what about THIS in my last post:
while you are working on the board, look for this / these circular (transistor) symbols, for later reference, notice how the circle is pierced by three lines (the leads) and the letters e b c near the piercings, and how the transistors are installed, if possible looking at their numbers and the ecb and bce arrangements I list for those numbers:
(and I give you a BIG picture)

 

[markthefixer]

OK, I admit that my earlier description could be confusing because:

while you are working on the board, look for this / these circular (transistor) symbols, for later reference, notice how the circle is pierced by three lines (the leads) and the letters e b c near the piercings, and how the transistors are installed, if possible looking at their numbers and the ecb and bce arrangements I list for those numbers:

I didn't distinguish the fact that the Pioneer's symbols wouldn't have letters with them, and that the letters were implied by the symbol, and that the symbols I posted were unusual because they HAD letters.

thus this "rule", symbols don't need letters, once you know how to read them

the symbols are the hardest thing to teach over a computer screen, to get someone to "get it"... that ah hah!! moment...

while you are working on the board, look for this / these circular (transistor) symbols ( which will not have the letters, they imply the letters that I will provide with my symbols, as a "key" or "spoiler"), for later reference, notice how the circle is pierced by three lines (the leads) and the letters e b c near the piercings, and how the transistors are installed, if possible looking at their numbers and the ecb and bce arrangements I list for those numbers:

 

[91rtstealth]

trimpots, yes

solder doesn't go in the hole, bend the lead over to hold the foil down before soldering, clean/scrape the green off until back at glued down foil area, follow the scraped foil with the lead (bending the lead to match foil trace) as far as possible. don't go off the foil with the lead. solder entire length of lead to foil.

i'm curious about something...i am under the impression that if two solder joints are on the same "light green area" they are part of the same circuit...well, 2 of the leads on the trimpot I had a soldering issue with are on the same light green area...so couldn't I just solder those to points together to alleviate my soldering issue? just making sure I understand these circuit boards...

and I did read everything you told me to read..I even printed all the wikipedias out as a reference...I didn't understand the symbol until you wrote this:

is always the arrow on one angled line (direction can be out (npn) or in (pnp) towards the base)
b is always the flat line the other two lines come out if at an angle
c is always the angled line without the arrow

and I was looking for letters on my board and as you explained, pioneer does not use letters...the symbols are hard to read, but I think i'm getting the hang of it now now that you explained the e b and c's distinguishing characteristics...

 

[91rtstealth]

at this point...the symbols are making a little more sense....it's kind of hard to see which lines is the "straight line" (B) because the symbols are so damn small, but i'll get used to it...might be easier to see once the transistors is out of the way...

I am off tomorrow, so I may get cracking on some of these...where should I start?

 

[EchoWars]

at this point...the symbols are making a little more sense....it's kind of hard to see which lines is the "straight line" (B) because the symbols are so damn small, but i'll get used to it...might be easier to see once the transistors is out of the way...

Good lighting and a magnifier. Mistakes are not tolerated well...get it right the first time.

 

[91rtstealth]

Good lighting and a magnifier. Mistakes are not tolerated well...get it right the first time.

well the symbols look different on the board than they do in this thread.....I can see the line with the arrow...that's easy..but i'm not sure about the other two....the B line looks like it has a has a T shape.....the line goes from what I think is the B lead, and then runs perpendicular to a line that connects to both sides of the circle...

 

[markthefixer]

well the symbols look different on the board than they do in this thread.....I can see the line with the arrow...that's easy..but i'm not sure about the other two....the B line looks like it has a has a T shape.....the line goes from what I think is the B lead, and then runs perpendicular to a line that connects to both sides of the circle...

good description of the base - a sideways "T" line, and the central portion and most important detail of the entire symbol looks like a "K". The two lines hitting on complementary angles.

(obvious) rule of thumb: going around the circle in one direction from the E will hit the collector, so look on the other side of the e and c for the Base - which looks like the sideways "T".

Sometimes the draftsman is nice and intersects the e and c lines, forming a sideways "V" or "<", OTHER times they have been trained differently and the two angled lines do NOT hit each other, just the base line - this is to give spacing for the arrow on the emitter to be easily distinguished.

The key is the two angled lines hitting a straight line. with ONE of the angled lines having an arrow pointing in either direction along it.

now, as for your soldering question:

The solder mask openings away from the green, were large on this older board, wasting solder and heating the board more when soldering than more modern boards. IF it won't take solder, you have to clean clean clean that joint, and put some extra flux on the spot before heating it. the heat of the pre-soldering operation activates the flux and cleans the solder also protecting the clean solder from oxidizing until the flux all burns away. When the area is oxidized AFTER this, abrasive cleaning that removes the burned material from the the area, getting back down to shiny material is the ONLY way to prepare it for solder again, and then USE FLUX.

In the picture the brown crusty stuff is old flux, all over EVERYTHING, which the manufacturer didn't bother to clean away. As opposed to the blacker color stuff which is the bare brown pc board material where the copper was removed completely to isolate the circuit paths. The greener stuff is the copper colored trace with the translucent green solder mask painted everywhere (copper and bare board) except where solder joints are desired, usually centered upon holes through the board.

Thus the board can have these layers

1. bare brown board
2. copper on the top of the board
3. translucent green solder mask, with holes over the copper where solder joints are desired, also is an electrical insulator.
4. optional silver colored solder on the desired joints, where the solder mask ISN'T...
5. flux over EVERYTHING.

Do you see where the solder mask holes extend past the desired trace, across the insulating gap, and leave a silver sliver open on the next trace over? - that's BAD, because sloppy soldering can BRIDGE the gap and make a SHORT CIRCUIT!!

 

[91rtstealth]

good description of the base - a sideways "T" line, and the central portion and most important detail of the entire symbol looks like a "K". The two lines hitting on complementary angles.

(obvious) rule of thumb: going around the circle in one direction from the E will hit the collector, so look on the other side of the e and c for the Base - which looks like the sideways "T".

Sometimes the draftsman is nice and intersects the e and c lines, forming a sideways "V" or "<", OTHER times they have been trained differently and the two angled lines do NOT hit each other, just the base line - this is to give spacing for the arrow on the emitter to be easily distinguished.

The key is the two angled lines hitting a straight line. with ONE of the angled lines having an arrow pointing in either direction along it.

yeah..sometimes it's hard to distinguish where that T is...on the drawings you supplied in this threat, it's easy..on the board it's harder to read....not so much because of the size, but because how it was drawn... however, I realized I can just reference the schematic when in doubt because it's much more clear on there...

, as for your soldering question:

The solder mask openings away from the green, were large on this older board, wasting solder and heating the board more when soldering than more modern boards. IF it won't take solder, you have to clean clean clean that joint, and put some extra flux on the spot before heating it. the heat of the pre-soldering operation activates the flux and cleans the solder also protecting the clean solder from oxidizing until the flux all burns away. When the area is oxidized AFTER this, abrasive cleaning that removes the burned material from the the area, getting back down to shiny material is the ONLY way to prepare it for solder again, and then USE FLUX.

In the picture the brown crusty stuff is old flux, all over EVERYTHING, which the manufacturer didn't bother to clean away. As opposed to the blacker color stuff which is the bare brown pc board material where the copper was removed completely to isolate the circuit paths. The greener stuff is the copper colored trace with the translucent green solder mask painted everywhere (copper and bare board) except where solder joints are desired, usually centered upon holes through the board.

Thus the board can have these layers

1. bare brown board
2. copper on the top of the board
3. translucent green solder mask, with holes over the copper where solder joints are desired, also is an electrical insulator.
4. optional silver colored solder on the desired joints, where the solder mask ISN'T...
5. flux over EVERYTHING.

Do you see where the solder mask holes extend past the desired trace, across the insulating gap, and leave a silver sliver open on the next trace over? - that's BAD, because sloppy soldering can BRIDGE the gap and make a SHORT CIRCUIT!!

ok..that makes a little more sense...and yeah, I have been careful to avoid sloppy soldering....I really would hate to have to do this over again because of something stupid like that...I hate trouble shooting...

so what's next? what transistors should I start working at? if you could...help me with the model numbers, because the numbers on the schematic seem different than the ones from mouser...

 

[markthefixer]

so what's next? what transistors should I start working at? if you could...help me with the model numbers, because the numbers on the schematic seem different than the ones from mouser...

of course they are, and I already did:

Q9: 2SD325R-E to-220 bce 35v 3a 10w 40-320hfe 8mhz Q9 pwr +13v pass
512-KSC2073TU bce bce 150v 1.5a 25w 4mhz 40-140hfe $0.53

for each and every one!!!!

The original one, the replacement, the lead arrangements for BOTH... all handed out on a platter. In the post you pulled the parts numbers from.

Here's the latest complete sx-1250 power supply rebuild parts list, updated to reflect unavailable transistors AND new voltage adjust trimpots - at under 2 bucks each, they're cheap insurance.

Further posts will document the parts for the protection and amplifier board rebuilds. All 4 of these boards are removable easily because they are connectorized, and all the advice above is excellent.


--- --- --- +13v regulator --- --- ---

Q9: 2SD325R-E to-220 bce 35v 3a 10w 40-320hfe 8mhz Q9 pwr +13v pass
512-KSC2073TU to-220 bce 150v 1.5a 25w 4mhz 40-140hfe $0.53

Q10: 2SC945A-R to-92 ecb 50v .1a .25w 50-600hfe 250mhz Q10 darlington dvr
512-KSC2310YBU to-92 ecb 150v .05a .8w 100mhz 40-240hfe $0.11 ea

Q11: 2SC945A-R to-92 ecb 50v .1a .25w 50-600hfe 250mhz q11 feedback
512-KSC1845UBU (ln)to-92 ecb 120v .05a .5w 100mhz 150-800hfe $0.05 ea

D5: WZ-061 6.1v 0.5w zener diode
512-1N5234B Fairchild 6.2V, 0.5W Zener

D6: 1s2473
512-1N4148 Diodes - Small Signal 100V Io/200mA BULK

C15: 47 10V 647-UPW1A470MDD6 47 10V

C16: 22 10V 647-UPW1A220MDD 22 10V

C17: 220 16V 647-UPW1C221MPD 220 16v



Re: beefing things up, Q4 and Q8 come to mind... going from an itty bitty case to a larger case that can dissipate more heat.

*************
--- --- --- +25v regulator --- --- ---
Q4: 2SC1384-R to-92 ecb 50v 1a 1w 50-340hfe 200mhz Q4 +25v pos pass
512-KSC2690AYS to-126 ecb 120/a160 1.2a 20w 155mhz 35-320hfe $0.40


C9: 100 35V 647-UPW1J101MPD 100 63V

--- --- --- -25v regulator --- --- ---
Q8: 2SA684A-R to-92 ecb 50v 1a 1w 50-340hfe 200mhz Q8 -25v neg pass
512-KSA1220YSTU to-126 ecb 120/a160 1.2a 20w 155mhz 35-320hfe $0.39


C10: 100 35V 647-UPW1J101MPD 100 63V

***********

--- --- --- +65v regulator --- --- ---

Q1: 2SD313P-E to-220 bce 60v 3a 30w 40-320hfe 5mhz Q1 pwr +65v pass
512-KSC2073TU to-220 bce 150v 1.5a 25w 4mhz 40-140hfe $0.53

Q2: 2SC869-D to-92 bce 160v 30ma .2w 90hfe ?mhz Q2 darlington dvr
512-KSC2310YBU to-92 ecb 150v .05a .8w 100mhz 40-240hfe $0.11 ea

Q3: 2SC1318-R to-92 ecb 50v .5a .625w 85-340hfe 200mhz q3 feedback
512-KSC1845UBU (ln)to-92 ecb 120v .05a .5w 100mhz 150-800hfe $0.05 ea

D1: WZ-240 24v 0.5w zener diode
512-1N5252B Fairchild 24 V, 0.5W Zener

D2: 1s2473
512-1N4148 Diodes - Small Signal 100V Io/200mA BULK

C1: 220 80V 647-UHE2A221MHD 220 100V 12mm x 31mm

C5: 47 35V 647-UPW1V470MED 47 35V

C7: 22 50V 647-UPW1H220MDD 22 50V

C11: 47 80V 647-UPW2A470MPD 47 100V

VR1: 5k ohm 1 turn potentiometer
652-3386H-1-502LF bourns 1250 1 TURN p.s. Voltage adjust POT 3/8" 500ohms 10%



--- --- --- -65v regulator --- --- ---

Q5: 2SB507P-E to-220 bce 60v 3a 30w 40-320hfe 5mhz Q5 pwr -65v pass
512-KSA940TU_Q to-220 bce 150v 1.5a 25w 4mhz 40-140hfe $0.54

Q6: 2SA628A-D to-92 ecb 25v .1a .15w 55-800hfe 100mhz q6 darlington dvr
512-KSA1013YBU to-92 ecb 160v 1a .9w 50mhz 160-320hfe $0.17

Q7: 2SA720-R to-92 ecb 50v .5a .625w 85-340hfe 200mhz q7 feedback
512-KSA992FBU (ln)to-92 ecb 120v .05a .5w 100mhz 150-800hfe $0.05 ea

D3: WZ-240 24v 0.5w zener diode
512-1N5252B Fairchild 24 V, 0.5W Zener

D4: 1s2473
512-1N4148 Diodes - Small Signal 100V Io/200mA BULK

C2: 220 80V 647-UHE2A221MHD 220 100V 12mm x 31mm

C6: 47 35V 647-UPW1V470MED 47 35V

C8: 22 50V 647-UPW1H220MDD 22 50V

C12: 47 80V 647-UPW2A470MPD 47 100V

VR2: 5k ohm 1 turn potentiometer
652-3386H-1-502LF bourns 1250 1 TURN p.s. Voltage adjust POT 3/8" 500ohms 10%



--- --- --- 5.5v regulator --- --- ---

Q12: 2SD325R-E to-220 bce 35v 3a 10w 40-320hfe 8mhz Q12 pwr +5.5v pass
512-KSC2073TU to-220 bce 150v 1.5a 25w 4mhz 40-140hfe $0.53

Q13: 2SC945A-R to-92 ecb 50v .1a .25w 50-600hfe 250mhz Q13 darlington dvr
512-KSC2310YBU to-92 ecb 150v .05a .8w 100mhz 40-240hfe $0.11 ea



C13: 1000 25V 647-TVX1H102MCD Note: axial capacitor 1000 50V
C18: 47 10V 647-UPW1A470MDD6 47 10V
C19: 47 10V 647-UPW1A470MDD6 47 10V

***************************

and to save a LOT of typing:
mouser.com 's
bom import:
512-KSC2073TU|1
512-KSC2310YBU|1
512-KSC1845UBU|1
512-1N5234B|1
512-1N4148|1
647-UPW1A470MDD6|1
647-UPW1A220MDD|1
647-UPW1C221MPD|1
512-KSC2690AYS|1
647-UPW1J101MPD|1
512-KSA1220YSTU|1
647-UPW1J101MPD|1
512-KSC2073TU|1
512-KSC2310YBU|1
512-KSC1845UBU|1
512-1N5252B|1
512-1N4148|1
647-UHE2A221MHD|1
647-UPW1V470MED|1
647-UPW1H220MDD|1
647-UPW2A470MPD|1
652-3386H-1-502LF|1
512-KSA940TU_Q|1
512-KSA1013YBU|1
512-KSA992FBU|1
512-1N5252B|1
512-1N4148|1
647-UHE2A221MHD|1
647-UPW1V470MED|1
647-UPW1H220MDD|1
647-UPW2A470MPD|1
652-3386H-1-502LF|1
512-KSC2073TU|1
512-KSC2310YBU|1
647-TVX1H102MCD|1
647-UPW1A470MDD6|1
647-UPW1A470MDD6|1
534-4672
534-4672
532-249

on aug 9, 2009 this BOM import works correctly, and has all parts, current price 12.67

 

[91rtstealth]

cool...so should I do them in order from the top of the list to the bottom...or do you recommend a specific one(s) I should start with?

 

[91rtstealth]

of course they are, and I already did:


for each and every one!!!!

The original one, the replacement, the lead arrangements for BOTH... all handed out on a platter. In the post you pulled the parts numbers from.

just wondering where I should start...if there is an order I should go in? etc....i'm ready to start working on the transistors...just don't want to start messing around until I know where to begin...

 

[markthefixer]

just wondering where I should start...if there is an order I should go in? etc....i'm ready to start working on the transistors...just don't want to start messing around until I know where to begin...

Doesn't matter, all should be done before turning on power. Could get the lead identification issues down first, or get the mounting issues of using a mica insulator and being sure there are no short circuits done first, without lead identification issues.

hint, when trying to orient the transistor symbol to the transistor itself, rotate the board so that the emitter is to the left and the collector to the right for a transistor that is ECB, then the Collector will be in the middle, either forward of a line between the e and b or behind that line. Bend the center lead to meet the hole...

in other words, don't twist up your mind trying to rotate it, rotate the board itself, so that everything after that is as easy as falling off a log!!

as for mounting the to-220 transistors, with and (depending) without micas - both times use a thin layer of thermal transfer paste, two layers if using mica. too much will leave a lot of squeeze out and possibly prevent the tight mounting of the transistor. sometimes a single transistor on an isolated (usually small) heat sink will be direct mounted with just thermal paste and no mica. That heat sink will be electrically charged and have to be treated as a live wire.

The Pioneer screws used on the amp and power supply pc boards heat sinks are screwed into a non conductive mounting arrangement behind the heat sink material. Do not "gorilla tighten" them as something could get broken. apply thermal compound between the heat sink and the mica and betweeen the mica and the transistor... of course clean off the old dried out white stuff first.

 

[DCinDC]

Markthefixer,

I also have an SX-1250 doing the same thing. OTs are good.

I will be ordering up and following along. I have extensive electronics background so you won't need to spoon feed me, but I have to say many thanks for the BOM and the tips.

I must say you are quite patient! I'm not sure the OP realizes the value you are giving.

And I don't see how you have the time, (I sure don't) but I am very thankful!

 

[91rtstealth]

yes he is..haha....let me know how yours comes along....I haven't had a chance to work on mine in a while...i've been really busy...i'm going to try to get cracking on the resistors within the next week or two...

 

[91rtstealth]

can someone help me find a replacement for the following item at mouser?
647-UHE2A221MHD

it's currently not in stock..and I don't want to order the wrong thing because I dont' understand all the different tolerances, operating temps, etc...does any of that stuff matter or do you just need to make sure the voltage and uF is correct?

 

[markthefixer]

1250 power supply board, RIGHT???? Ya gotta include that !!!!! Luckily, I remembered...


from my notes:



C1: 220 80V 647-UHE2A221MHD 220 100V 12mm x 31mm 16mm diamater MAXIMUM!
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
clearance issues (including height?):
c1 to c2 220uf 80v 16mm dia max, no space between them 30.5mm tall max??

647-UPW2A221MHD is 220uf 100v upw 16mm x 25mm
647-UHE2A221MHD is 220uf 80v uhe 12.5mm x 31.5mm
647-UHE2A221MHD6 is 220uf 80v uhe 16mm x 20mm
647-UPM2A221MHD6 is 220uf 100v upm 16mm x 25mm
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


C5: 47 35V 647-UPW1V470MED 47 35V

C7: 22 50V 647-UPW1H220MDD 22 50V

C11: 47 80V 647-UPW2A470MPD 47 100V
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
clearance issues (including height?)
c11 to c12 47uf 80v 13mm dia max, no space between them 30.5mm tall max??

C11: 47 80V 647-UPW2A470MPD 47 100V 10mm x 16mm (orig 13mm) oos
Cxx: 47 80V 647-UPW2A470MPD6 47 100V 8mm x 20mm (orig 13mm)
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


647-UPM2A221MHD6 is currently in stock with
Stock:
98 Can Ship Immediately
5,500 Can Ship in 5 Days

647-UPW2A470MPD 10m x 16 mm , in stock... ~2000

 

[91rtstealth]

thanks again good sir...

 

[91rtstealth]

ok...so the other day and went ahead and replaced all of the transistors except the large ones connected to the heat sinks:
Q1, Q5, Q9...any guideance on these remaining? I am a little nervous about using the compount, plastic gaset, etc...

also...for Q4, your BOM which I used said the model was "512-KSC2690AYS" and the one i received and installed was "512-KSC2690YSTU"...is this ok?

Lastly...I think there may have been a mistake in the pin-out for Q6...but I wanted to make sure before I messed with anything....you listed:

Q6: 2SA628A-D to-92 ecb 25v .1a .15w 55-800hfe 100mhz q6 darlington dvr
512-KSA1013YBU to-92 ecb 160v 1a .9w 50mhz 160-320hfe $0.17

I'm pretty sure the pin-out is BCE...that's what it appears to be on my circuit board..??


wooohooo..almost done