KLH Model Six Restoration
- Thread starter bawhega
- Start date
That's often the problem with things on CList and marketplace listings. Still too high when you know what needs to go into them. Anymore with the prices of replacement drivers and shipping for other items added on, you almost need to get these things for next to nothing unless you know you will be keeping them for a long time. But they only need one buyer.
bawhega
New Member
Thank you to everyone for all of your feedback. I am learning more and more about these and have included a couple of more pictures. I went ahead and destroyed one of the grills and plan on making new baffles for them with a similar cloth. I was surprised to find a black grill behind the burlap and to my dismay, they are the earlier models with the epoxied in woofers. I’m going to try to remove the back panel and I’m hoping the peanut brittle will not be too hard to CHP through. They will definitely need a recap. I can hear both drivers in each cabinet, but they definitely have a muddy sound. I really want to bring these back to life and enjoy them and plan on refinishing the cabinets as well.
Attachments
c5corvette
Well-Known Member
I have done several pairs of these.
1. Remove the lock nut/washer on the toggle switch
2. Gently pry up around the edges of the back plate near the eight nails enough so that the nails start to lift and you can pull them out with pliers. The plate will bend a bit, but you can flatten out later. Once nails are removed, plate should lift off to expose the epoxy tub.
3. Use small chisel and hammer and start chipping away, but be aware of caps and wires within epoxy. Once gone, you can access inside of cabinet.
4. Now the fun begins. You will probably see a cap fastened to the back side of the baffle. You need to get to that through the small opening you created by removing the epoxy tub. The cap is clamped with two screws. The ease/difficulty factor to replace depends on two factors. Size and nimbleness of your arms and fingers or the length of wiring connected to the cap.
When you get to this stage, post about what you observe!
Tim D
Super Member
Ok... Just for background information on the serial numbering I started looking at the pair I have in the queue. I picked them up about 4 months ago. I knew one had been cut open and I thought I saw a bullet tweeter through a hole in the grill cloth - I was right. I unscrewed the back of that one that was cut. He used what appear to be dry-wall screws to hold the back on. It couldn't have been sealed well. I pulled out the stuffing and yep, there it was - a horn tweeter. Something else though.... These are very very early serial numbered KLH Sixes with Oil caps. So I brought the undamaged one into the house and replaced one of my good KLH Sixes with it and started some music. Dang if the tweeter isn't talking in that one! So both of them have tweeter problems or maybe the oil caps or the switches are bad. In any case I'll de-oxit the switch on the back. If that doesn't fix it then I'll have to open it up from the terminal plate and start tracing out if it is the oil caps, switch or the tweeter. I plan to replace the tweeter in the other unit with a proper original. I might be able to get one or two of the sealed ones too!
So for these two basket cases the serial numbers are:
8058 (Unknown date. With Oil Caps. plywood backs, sealed tweeters, sealed woofers and outside mounted terminal plate without the zip code for KLH's address.)
8135 (Unknown date - No date stamp inside the cabinet. With Oil Caps. plywood backs, sealed tweeters, sealed woofers and outside mounted terminal plate without the zip code for KLH's address.)
My other two that are refurbished and in main rotation have the following serial numbers:
61759 (Date stamped inside with 1963. With Electrolytic Caps, plywood backs, sealed tweeters, sealed woofers and outside mounted terminal plate without the zip code for KLH's address.)
61114 (Date stamped inside with 1963. With Electrolytic Caps, plywood backs, sealed tweeters, sealed woofers and outside mounted terminal plate without the zip code for KLH's address.)
* This set had the original sealed tweeters removed by the previous owner and replaced with some Radio Shack tweeters. I replaced them with KLH 22 tweets that actually sound terrific in the Sixes. Don't know if someday I will put in the later KLH Six tweeters. It sounds so good as-is that I don't have much incentive to change them right now.
bawhega
New Member
Okay, just removed one of the back plates and NO PEANUT BRITTLE!! Felt around a little and noticed a large capacator coming off of the tweeter. Will carefully remove the insulation and see what else is doin'. I kept hearing about a solid block of "peanut brittle" that needed to be chipped through, but no such issues here. 
GD70
Lunatic Member
Someone has been in there already. The hole opening is too smooth, clearly sanded. Also looks like a newer cap. You may not have to do anything with these except to check the woofer surrounds that they are sealed properly.Okay, just removed one of the back plates and NO PEANUT BRITTLE!! Felt around a little and noticed a large capacator coming off of the tweeter. Will carefully remove the insulation and see what else is doin'. I kept hearing about a solid block of "peanut brittle" that needed to be chipped through, but no such issues here.
View attachment 1331229 View attachment 1331230
bawhega
New Member
bawhega
New Member
Took the back off the second one and alas, peanut brittle! Fortunately it only took me about 30 seconds to knock it all out. Now, here’s hoping a recap job will bring these back to their glory!
Attachments
GD70
Lunatic Member
If the surrounds are still sticky then they should be ok, but if dry they will need to be resealed along with the dust caps.