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KLH Six, are these capacitors already upgraded?

S

sirvancelot

New Member
New owner of a pair of some KLH Six speakers. One is old.. I haven't opened that one yet.

The newer of the two has 169*** serial number, with the screw in woofer and recessed back plate. Do these caps look like they've already been replaced? I don't have the full backstory, the owner unfortunately passed and they were left to his children.

The speaker sounds okay but I also don't know what to listen for. Maybe it could be better and I just don't know. Should I check the caps with a multimeter?
 

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Thank you. I would have guessed they were new.

Just the two 2uF and two 8uF? Do I need to order or replace anything else typically?

I see some people do two 4uF in parallel.. any reason to do that over the single 8uF?
 
Most folks leave the resistors and inductors alone, they rarely fail. If the 4 uf are truly parallel, then a single 8uf is fine. I don't remember the xover in the Six, the last one I refreshed was 25 years ago.

Such nice speakers, true classics!
 
sirvancelot said:
Thank you. I would have guessed they were new.

Just the two 2uF and two 8uF? Do I need to order or replace anything else typically?

I see some people do two 4uF in parallel.. any reason to do that over the single 8uF?
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two caps in parallel are more reactive charge/discharge faster than one of equal value. Would you notice the difference maybe maybe not.
 
I'm only finding two capacitors. One 8uF and one unlabeled.. but probably 2uF. Am I missing one?
 

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That one cap has two 2uF caps inside, hence the three wires coming out of it.
Capacitors in parallel will have less ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) but whether that's why they did that is anybody's guess.

At any rate those Temple caps should be replaced
 
The two caps are not wired in parallel. Look at the schematic. You'll see the two 2 uf caps are wired in series with a connection between the two. That's why wire the 3rd wired. It's essentially two separate caps. If they were in parallel they would add up to 4 uf and would not need the 3rd wire.

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cwh said:
Those 50+ yo Temples definitely need to go however Parts Express Dayton NPE caps are all you need. Film caps will decrease circuit resistance and increase listening fatigue.
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Thanks for this I've seen a whole lot about MPT and film and Solen Madisound caps.. I'm just going with Dayton 027-338 and 027-324.
 
sirvancelot said:
Thanks for this I've seen a whole lot about MPT and film and Solen Madisound caps.. I'm just going with Dayton 027-338 and 027-324.
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There is a whole lot about a whole lot… full of sound and fury, signifying nothing.

Hopefully you’re on your way to a properly working Model 6. They can be a magical experience when everything lines up.
 
Bennic XPP and Dayton caps are exactly the same, to be avoided.
: The Bennic XPP has a slightly more open top-end than the Bennic FPP. The FPP is extremely neutral making the XPP sound a tad "toppy" but till overall reasonably neutral. Personally I prefer the FPP to the XPP for souding less "cheap". Although the XPP seems more detailed than most standard quality MKP's it lacks coherency and overview making complex programme material, such as large big band music, choirs or symphony orchestra's sound confused and muddled. The Bennic FPP performs better in this respect. The XPP give me a headache after a while of having to listen to them. Even a cheap Solen PB-MKP-FC is more pleasent to listen to, the Solen is more spatious and more neutral. Switch from the Bennix XPP to a Clarity Cap CSA and everything falls back into place in regards to the neutrality and coherency of the musical image. Compare an XPP to the Wima MKP-10 and the Wima is more neutral, maybe not as detailed as the XPP, but definitely more coherent. The Bennic XPP is one to skip if possible.
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