KLH Twenty Three Restoration-PICS

[allmanbros]

I resealed the surrounds and dust caps with at least 3 light coats of vintage-ar's sealant (I used the whole jar). Looking through the cloth surrounds with a bright light it appears the sealant did what it should. I recapped with Dayton 4uF caps. I still don't think they sound as good as my HPM-40s. The 40's have more thump and sound much brighter. Maybe I can tweak the bass and treble to make them sound better. I guess I was expecting them to sound as good or better. Each driver seems to work fine but overall the sound leaves a little to be desired.

Sounds like your preference is for the "West Coast" sound, which is thumping bass and bright highs...nothing wrong with that if that's your tastes...the KLH have the "East Coast" sound, which is more controlled bass and laid back highs...two different speakers for two different listeners...don't know if you can tweak the KLH enough to your satisfaction, an easier path may be to find some JBLs of that era which share similar characteristics as the HPMs...you will have no trouble moving the KLHs along in their original state.

 

[GD70]

I resealed the surrounds and dust caps with at least 3 light coats of vintage-ar's sealant (I used the whole jar). Looking through the cloth surrounds with a bright light it appears the sealant did what it should. I recapped with Dayton 4uF caps. I still don't think they sound as good as my HPM-40s. The 40's have more thump and sound much brighter. Maybe I can tweak the bass and treble to make them sound better. I guess I was expecting them to sound as good or better. Each driver seems to work fine but overall the sound leaves a little to be desired.

Have you played with the tweeter output knob on the back? Move to Increase if you haven’t already done it. Also, listen to them for a while. Your ears need to adjust to a different sound. Regarding the sealer, when you gently push the woofer cone inward, does it return slowly? That indicates you have a good seal. Also, usually, one, maybe two light sealer applications is all that’s needed. Too much sealer can restrict the excursion slightly, decreasing bass output.

 

[Byron Boldt]

Have you played with the tweeter output knob on the back? Move to Increase if you haven’t already done it. Also, listen to them for a while. Your ears need to adjust to a different sound. Regarding the sealer, when you gently push the woofer cone inward, does it return slowly? That indicates you have a good seal. Also, usually, one, maybe two light sealer applications is all that’s needed. Too much sealer can restrict the excursion slightly, decreasing bass output.

They are so much different than the HPM's. I have some EPI's A110's and BA A60s. Maybe I should compare the KLH with those?

I did clean the tweeter switches because they were dirty. I would like to go back in and verify the resistance values when moving the switch. I have it set to Increase right now. The highs change very subtly in each position. I used the whole small jar of sealer. They say the jar is good for roughly two coats and KLH speakers usually need two and sometimes three. My cloth surrounds looked very transparent initially. You can still see through them, but everything is opaque now like looking through frosted glass. It takes a little less than a second for the woofer to return. At first it is fast but then slows down. I plan to get some rope caulk and replace the original foam. I may restore the cabinets first if I decide I can get used to the sound. Thanks for the tips.

 

[allmanbros]

They are so much different than the HPM's. I have some EPI's A110's and BA A60s. Maybe I should compare the KLH with those?

I did clean the tweeter switches because they were dirty. I would like to go back in and verify the resistance values when moving the switch. I have it set to Increase right now. The highs change very subtly in each position. I used the whole small jar of sealer. They say the jar is good for roughly two coats and KLH speakers usually need two and sometimes three. My cloth surrounds looked very transparent initially. You can still see through them, but everything is opaque now like looking through frosted glass. It takes a little less than a second for the woofer to return. At first it is fast but then slows down. I plan to get some rope caulk and replace the original foam. I may restore the cabinets first if I decide I can get used to the sound. Thanks for the tips.

For sure the KLHs will compare favorably with the EPIs and BAs...you can add Advent, Acoustic Research, and Genesis to that list too.....JBL are probably the most prominent West Coast speakers along with your HPMs, DCM, Altec, and Infinity....lots of options from each coast and it comes down to what you like, or don't.

 

[Byron Boldt]

Have you played with the tweeter output knob on the back? Move to Increase if you haven’t already done it. Also, listen to them for a while. Your ears need to adjust to a different sound. Regarding the sealer, when you gently push the woofer cone inward, does it return slowly? That indicates you have a good seal. Also, usually, one, maybe two light sealer applications is all that’s needed. Too much sealer can restrict the excursion slightly, decreasing bass output.

I decided to go ahead and refinish the cabinets. I have all the drivers and etc removed. I am hand sanding the front trim pieces. I am using my orbital sander with 120 and 220 grit paper. So far no problems but I wonder if I am taking off enough finish. Do you go down to bare wood or is it really a case of getting the shine off of them and making them look less orange? I don't want to sand these down too far. Here is a pic of one sanded the other not sanded. Thanks for all the tips so far.

 

[GD70]

I decided to go ahead and refinish the cabinets. I have all the drivers and etc removed. I am hand sanding the front trim pieces. I am using my orbital sander with 120 and 220 grit paper. So far no problems but I wonder if I am taking off enough finish. Do you go down to bare wood or is it really a case of getting the shine off of them and making them look less orange? I don't want to sand these down too far. Here is a pic of one sanded the other not sanded. Thanks for all the tips so far.

View attachment 3200753

I go to bare wood, but be careful with 120 grit. Stick with the 220. Bare wood is like a clean canvas, the oil, or whatever you use to finish will be even. If any original finish remains, the color won’t be consistent, and will be blotchy.

 

[Byron Boldt]

I go to bare wood, but be careful with 120 grit. Stick with the 220. Bare wood is like a clean canvas, the oil, or whatever you use to finish will be even. If any original finish remains, the color won’t be consistent, and will be blotchy.

Here is a before pic and an after pic. I sealed the surrounds, recapped, used rope caulk, sanded them down with 120 and 220, repaired some veneer like you did and added 6 coats of Tried and True Danish Oil that I had. That is actually just an all natural boiled Linseed Oil. I am undecided on if I will add any kind of topcoat or wax. I can always add more oil as needed. Will play it by ear. The finish is a little less shiny than satin.

 

[GD70]

Here is a before pic and an after pic. I sealed the surrounds, recapped, used rope caulk, sanded them down with 120 and 220, repaired some veneer like you did and added 6 coats of Tried and True Danish Oil that I had. That is actually just an all natural boiled Linseed Oil. I am undecided on if I will add any kind of topcoat or wax. I can always add more oil as needed. Will play it by ear. The finish is a little less shiny than satin.

Very nice! The veneer looks beautiful!