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Klipsch H700 Heresy Replacement Woofer

THD+N said:
Speaker magnets don't typically loose their magnetic properties unless they are repeatedly heated to very high temperatures. This is possible on PA speakers, but a few times of this and the voice coil is toast and the magnet would still be fine unless you were able to rebuild the woofer multiple times for the same issue, then the magnet might loose some strength.
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There are a few other ways to diminish a magnet's properties. One is improper storage, esp. with other magnetic elements randomly or with similar poles against each other. This can cause their properties to deteriorate relatively quickly.
 
THD+N said:
Speaker magnets don't typically loose their magnetic properties unless they are repeatedly heated to very high temperatures. This is possible on PA speakers, but a few times of this and the voice coil is toast and the magnet would still be fine unless you were able to rebuild the woofer multiple times for the same issue, then the magnet might loose some strength.
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Alnico magnets in K55's don't lose their magnetic strength like Woofers always did. This is because, they never heat up or see many watts when so heavily attenuated. The woofers, especially Subwoofers are the ones receiving 99% of the power (not an exact figure), and the most Thermal Compression in operation, and thus the most abuse. Ask me how I know!
Ceramic magnets are the most rugged (heaviest too) and AlNiCo the weakest must be re-magnetized in a woofer. Yet some AudioPhools think they somehow have magical properties. Samarium Cobalt Magnets are the strongest, and too expensive, so NeoDymium are the great, modern COMPROMISE for cost/weight/strength. The worst of the AudioPhools think that 50 pound, Field Coils of 90 years ago are the best, sitting behind a speaker, on the floor, and belong to the DAC of the month club along with the Wires and Cables AudioPhools.
 
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ClaudeJ1 said:
The worst of the AudioPhools think that 50 pound, Field Coils of 90 years ago are the best, sitting behind a speaker, on the floor, and belong to the DAC of the month club along with the Wires and Cables AudioPhools.
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Please don't go down the wires and cables route unless you want the OP's thread shut down.
 
tlann said:
Recapped the H700s — they are now back to original spec and sounding absolutely fantastic. Thanks everyone for your knowledge and suggestions. I’m really enjoying these speakers, and it was fun to learn a bit about the various Heresy variations!
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Too bad the shipping cost was so outrageous on those K=22's. I almost fainted when the UPS guy put them on the scale and called out the Price of a 3rd woofer for Shipping 2! I like to give good deals to fellow Klipscheads, but I hate to see the manifestation of inflation rear it's ugly head when shipping. This tells me I should never include Free Shipping on Ebay sales. I'm proud of my 25 year, 100% rating there, as a buyer and Seller and i want to keep it that way. Now that they charge State TAX to the buyer, on TOP of the high shipping, really adds Salt to the wound!!! This was a private sale here and no Ebay, thankfully.
 
ClaudeJ1 said:
Too bad the shipping cost was so outrageous on those K=22's. I almost fainted when the UPS guy put them on the scale and called out the Price of a 3rd woofer for Shipping 2! I like to give good deals to fellow Klipscheads, but I hate to see the manifestation of inflation rear it's ugly head when shipping. This tells me I should never include Free Shipping on Ebay sales. I'm proud of my 25 year, 100% rating there, as a buyer and Seller and i want to keep it that way. Now that they charge State TAX to the buyer on TOP of the high shipping really adds Salt to the wound!!!
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it cost me $8 to ship a single K-22 this week via pirateship.com
 
I’m going to be replacing the gaskets in the K-55-V today or tomorrow. Is there anything I should know about the process of opening those up, or is it all pretty straightforward?

Thanks in advance for any tips or words of wisdom!
 
tlann said:
I’m going to be replacing the gaskets in the K-55-V today or tomorrow. Is there anything I should know about the process of opening those up, or is it all pretty straightforward?

Thanks in advance for any tips or words of wisdom!
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It's straight forward, like replacing one on your garden hose.

I have not tried, but those gaskets might even work!
 
I tried to replace the gaskets quickly last night, but I didn't have much time and decided I'll have to wait until the weekend — I thought I might be able to do it without removing the mid-horn from the front baffle, but the K-55-V is mounted with screws that face the front, so it would have been annoying and a little tricky to turn the screwdriver 180° and work in reverse like that, especially because things would have felt a bit cramped. I also didn't want to clumsily drop anything onto the woofer.
 
tlann said:
I tried to replace the gaskets quickly last night, but I didn't have much time and decided I'll have to wait until the weekend — I thought I might be able to do it without removing the mid-horn from the front baffle, but the K-55-V is mounted with screws that face the front, so it would have been annoying and a little tricky to turn the screwdriver 180° and work in reverse like that, especially because things would have felt a bit cramped. I also didn't want to clumsily drop anything onto the woofer.
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Wait a minute!

The entire K-55 unscrews from the back of the horn.
You don’t touch the screws on the K-55 to replace the small garden hose style gasket that goes between the driver and the horn.

All you should need to do is loosen the screws on the crossover for the squawker connection.
IMG_2393.jpeg

Then the entire K-55 should unscrew from the horn, counter clockwise.
IMG_2394.jpeg
 
Ha! Thanks for these incredibly helpful pictures, @Invidiosulus ! You just saved me a bunch of time. I thought the K-55-V didn't screw directly on like that — am very glad I was wrong.

I see you also seem to have done some horn dampening. I know some people completely cover the horn in Dynamat, but I'm not sure I want to go down that route just yet. Your approach looks more immediately achievable. Did you notice an improvement?

Thanks again for all the great wisdom!
 
tlann said:
Ha! Thanks for these incredibly helpful pictures, @Invidiosulus ! You just saved me a bunch of time. I thought the K-55-V didn't screw directly on like that — am very glad I was wrong.

I see you also seem to have done some horn dampening. I know some people completely cover the horn in Dynamat, but I'm not sure I want to go down that route just yet. Your approach looks more immediately achievable. Did you notice an improvement?

Thanks again for all the great wisdom!
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I would have used dynamat if I had access to it at the time.
I remember thinking that it helped a little at the time but it was over 20 years ago and I haven’t done an A/B test since then.
 
tlann said:
Ha! Thanks for these incredibly helpful pictures, @Invidiosulus ! You just saved me a bunch of time. I thought the K-55-V didn't screw directly on like that — am very glad I was wrong.

I see you also seem to have done some horn dampening. I know some people completely cover the horn in Dynamat, but I'm not sure I want to go down that route just yet. Your approach looks more immediately achievable. Did you notice an improvement?

Thanks again for all the great wisdom!
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I did rope caulk on the two pairs I had. It made a big difference with the cast aluminum horns, I’m not sure how much difference it makes on the plastic horns, if any.
 
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