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La Scala tweeter not working

All the shrink wrapped wires make it difficult to troubleshoot, but if the squawker circuit doesn't get in the way, try this.

Remove the jumper wires and measure the capacitance between HF Input + and Tweeter +. Hopefully you'll get around 1.3uf if all the tweeter capacitors are okay.
 
OK, I removed the jumper between the HF, Tweeter and Squawker (I feel like I'm defusing a bomb) :eek:
I measured between the HF (Black) and Tweeter (Black) and got a 0.00 reading. Tried both probes on Red and got 3.02 reading.
 
You’re welcome.

You could have anything from a shorted cap to a bad solder joint. Like I said on the Klipsch forum, let the builder do the troubleshooting and fix your network.
 
Deang said:
You’re welcome.

You could have anything from a shorted cap to a bad solder joint. Like I said on the Klipsch forum, let the builder do the troubleshooting and fix your network.
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What is the best way to contact Michael Crites?
 
I would take your current meter, set it to Ohms and check point to point on the tweeter wiring of the crossover. I'm not a fan of crimp connectors and have had issues with them in the past. Don't check through any component rather just check end to end of the individual wires.
 
Professionals use professional crimpers. My Panduit 1550 was over $300. The Panduit disconnects that are used with it are almost a dollar each. I would imagine with how much crimping Crites does over there they are probably not using a generic crimping tool from AutoZone.
 
Deang said:
Professionals use professional crimpers. My Panduit 1550 was over $300. The Panduit disconnects that are used with it are almost a dollar each. I would imagine with how much crimping Crites does over there they are probably not using a generic crimping tool from AutoZone.
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I'm not maligning anyone however even the best plumber has a leak occasionally.
 
I've been using a Klein Tools crimper for 40 years and have always had great crimps. It comes down to using the tool properly.

Of course the ones Dean references are not worth the metal they are made of.


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First of all, thanks for all of your input.
*Update: I connected the x over in question to the known good speaker and the tweeter worked. I then connected it back to the original speaker and the tweeter worked. It must have been a loose connection somewhere. I tightened them all while it was connected originally but still it didn't work so I am not sure exactly what the culprit was.

New question, how do I determine what is pos/neg on wire coming from the tweeter? the wires coming from the Squawker and the Woofer are color coded striped red and black but not the tweeter? The tweeter wires are silver/copper. I usually use silver as negative but not sure if that's universal.
 
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