large electrolytics from china

[gogofast]

i'm trying to replace eight 10,000uf 80v caps in my onkyo power amp. on ebay, there are many caps that fit the bill, but pretty much all of them are from china or hong kong. has anyone bought these? your thoughts? risk of 'em being counterfeits?

anyone know a good source you trust?

thanks!

 

[restorer-john]

Spend $40 and buy a capacitor/esr meter and test the caps. They may be perfectly fine and you'll save a fortune.
If you are intent on replacements, steer clear of the chinese caps- buy Japanese and from a reputable source.

 

[SoundOfSound]

Mouser has tons of caps bought directly from the manufactures.

Here are some snap-ins if that's what you need.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMukHu%2bjC5l7YUbl0draSBC1GGW0WZJLbV0=

No affiliation

 

[EMark]

Reputable suppliers only...

You can't go wrong if you buy caps from Mouser or Digi-Key. I would definitely NOT buy caps from any source on E-Bay. You could end up with counterfeits or worse. Isn't there a saying "Trying to save pennies will often cost dollars later on" or something like that! In reading many posts here are AK, I believe that the Chinese will counterfeit anything to make a buck.
I recapped two amps with capacitors purchased from the 2 above suppliers. I was pleased with the results.

 

[bowtie427ss]

Disingenuity is the next best thing to genius in some cultures.

 

[Hyperion]

If I had a pound for every time that picture has been posted I'd be a rich fellow

As you have already been advised - if you must change them, buy from a known reputable source.

 

[bowtie427ss]

If I had a pound for every time that picture has been posted I'd be a rich fellow

It's the best one quickly available regarding caps these days. Most others have been taken down with only tiny thumbnails left.

FWIW, the Chinese shouldn't be singled out or solely blamed for this practice. They tend to build what customers order and are willing to buy.

 

[Hyperion]

It's the best one quickly available regarding caps these days. Most others have been taken down with only tiny thumbnails left.

FWIW, the Chinese shouldn't be singled out or solely blamed for this practice. They tend to build what customers order and are willing to buy.

Sad, but true. :sigh:

 

[blhagstrom]

It that an M504 or M508? I worked on each of those once.

Have you looked at the bottom yet?

I think the originals are 4 post type.
They have a massive copper connection setup that takes a LOT of desoldering.
The spacing on the leads is (was) impossible to match.
I got some snap in types with "close enough" spacing that I made fit.
After getting the old ones out, I have to pull the chassis sub-frame and do some grinding to make sure the new leads wouldn't accidently ground out.
I had to drill the boards for the new leads. The connections are very close.
THEN, I had to make some jumpers to re-connect the 4 pin lead traces so 2 pin would work. (WHY the F**K they made separate traces for the pins is a mystery). After mounting the caps, I had to custom make connections to replace part of the copper plates to get all the connections back again.

Its a ROYAL Pain-in-the-ass.

This is NOT a simple re-cap job. This is a re-cap involving metal working (machining) and some heavy soldering (welding).

If I remember right, the caps were $10 each (mouser).
I re-worked the two amps for a friend who blew them up and he paid me quite well! (Actually, he traded me some fine gear for the work and paid for the parts).

The POINT IS. LOOK at the old ones to see what you are getting into.
I'm sure its not a simple recap.

 

[heehaaa]

i'm trying to replace eight 10,000uf 80v caps in my onkyo power amp. on ebay, there are many caps that fit the bill, but pretty much all of them are from china or hong kong. has anyone bought these? your thoughts? risk of 'em being counterfeits?

anyone know a good source you trust?

thanks!

Here are a few companies that I've bought bonafide parts from:

Digikey, Mouser, Percy audio and Handmade electronics.

Here's a few from digikey http://www.digikey.com/product-sear...t=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25



You can also use 10kUf/100v caps too http://www.digikey.com/product-sear...t=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

 

[gogofast]

yeah, i've read your other post about it being a pain. well, i gotta do what i gotta do i guess. the amp is displaying a typical symptoms of larger caps not charging up properly. i'll probably ask you some specific questions when i start this project.

were the caps you used 4 pin Panasonic? short black case? (10000uf 100v)

are you saying the dummy pins had a part in the circuit connection?

It that an M504 or M508? I worked on each of those once.

Have you looked at the bottom yet?

I think the originals are 4 post type.
They have a massive copper connection setup that takes a LOT of desoldering.
The spacing on the leads is (was) impossible to match.
I got some snap in types with "close enough" spacing that I made fit.
After getting the old ones out, I have to pull the chassis sub-frame and do some grinding to make sure the new leads wouldn't accidently ground out.
I had to drill the boards for the new leads. The connections are very close.
THEN, I had to make some jumpers to re-connect the 4 pin lead traces so 2 pin would work. (WHY the F**K they made separate traces for the pins is a mystery). After mounting the caps, I had to custom make connections to replace part of the copper plates to get all the connections back again.

Its a ROYAL Pain-in-the-ass.

This is NOT a simple re-cap job. This is a re-cap involving metal working (machining) and some heavy soldering (welding).

If I remember right, the caps were $10 each (mouser).
I re-worked the two amps for a friend who blew them up and he paid me quite well! (Actually, he traded me some fine gear for the work and paid for the parts).

The POINT IS. LOOK at the old ones to see what you are getting into.
I'm sure its not a simple recap.

 

[CohibaJoe]

I did a Recap about a 1yr on M-504....The Main Caps I passed on.

As "blhagstrom" said....you need a Blowtorch to remove the caps from the Copper plate...That why I left this for another day....

I will watch your thread...as maybe the day is soon..:scratch2:

I did order from Mouser: Cornell Dubilier 10000uf/80v...598-380LX103M080A052

 

[glen65]

i'm trying to replace eight 10,000uf 80v caps in my onkyo power amp. on ebay, there are many caps that fit the bill, but pretty much all of them are from china or hong kong. has anyone bought these? your thoughts? risk of 'em being counterfeits?

anyone know a good source you trust?

thanks!

The others have already given you some sources. I would simply add, that
given the limited space between the caps, make sure to measure the diameter of the originals.
Don't order something that doesn't list its dimensions.

 

[toddalin]

My recent experience. I bought five 3,300 mfd, 35 volt caps from China from the 'bay. I was using two in two 555 timing circuits that were both controlled by a ganged stereo pot so that their timing would track together. Unfortunately, I couldn't get the timing to track together.

When I tested the five caps, four were at ~3,300 and the 5th (1 of the 2 that I used), was about 4,400 mfd. After I replaced it with one of the others, things worked fine..., but what a hassle figuring out why things wouldn't go as planned. :sigh:

 

[gogofast]

I did a Recap about a 1yr on M-504....The Main Caps I passed on.

As "blhagstrom" said....you need a Blowtorch to remove the caps from the Copper plate...That why I left this for another day....

I will watch your thread...as maybe the day is soon..:scratch2:

I did order from Mouser: Cornell Dubilier 10000uf/80v...598-380LX103M080A052

so, no issues after the recap? how does it sound compared to before the recap?
the thing about leaving them in if they test ok is that in order to test, you'd have to take them out anyways, and without a true ESR test, it's meaningless to just measure 'em.

btw, i like what the guy in your avatar makes...or made....or his sons make now.

 

[gogofast]

My recent experience. I bought five 3,300 mfd, 35 volt caps from China from the 'bay. I was using two in two 555 timing circuits that were both controlled by a ganged stereo pot so that their timing would track together. Unfortunately, I couldn't get the timing to track together.

When I tested the five caps, four were at ~3,300 and the 5th (1 of the 2 that I used), was about 4,400 mfd. After I replaced it with one of the others, things worked fine..., but what a hassle figuring out why things wouldn't go as planned. :sigh:

that's what i was worried about. so, no ebay for caps.

The others have already given you some sources. I would simply add, that
given the limited space between the caps, make sure to measure the diameter of the originals.
Don't order something that doesn't list its dimensions.

yep, i'll make sure to do that. thanks.

 

[CohibaJoe]

so, no issues after the recap? how does it sound compared to before the recap?
the thing about leaving them in if they test ok is that in order to test, you'd have to take them out anyways, and without a true ESR test, it's meaningless to just measure 'em.

btw, i like what the guy in your avatar makes...or made....or his sons make now.

My Thread on M-504:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=422094

The sound before was Muddy at the Low End....Lifeless in a way...With the Elna Silmic II Low End is more Defined...Highs are Smooth. I going to need to step up and Replace the Mains. I did try, but the Solder Iron was no match for Main Copper Plate. I going to need to take this to my repair shop to de-solder then I will take care of the rest.

The Prices on Pappy the last 2yrs are like Gold. W.L. Weller 12 is a Real Real Closes to Pappy 12. And the Price is under 30 clams.

 

[dr*audio]

3 words: Weller...Soldering...Gun.
Radio Shack has their version which is good and less expensive:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062752

 

[blhagstrom]

yeah, i've read your other post about it being a pain. well, i gotta do what i gotta do i guess. the amp is displaying a typical symptoms of larger caps not charging up properly. i'll probably ask you some specific questions when i start this project.

were the caps you used 4 pin Panasonic? short black case? (10000uf 100v)

are you saying the dummy pins had a part in the circuit connection?

The original caps have a "U" shaped pin set up on each connection (+/-).
So, each side (+/-) has two pins. The geniuses at Onkyo used each pin for a separate trace (most of them anyway). SO, when you use a normal 2 pin/lead cap, you need to complete the circuits as original.

The closest I could find on mouser were two pin snap in. (for a reasonable price, remember I was fixing TWO amps, 16 caps!) The smallest pin circle was still larger than the original so I had to drill holes further "out". Worried about possible chassis short, I ground out the sub chassis frame around the new holes. The snap in pins were "just" long enough to work.

To reconnect some of the connections, I used 10 or 12 ga. copper wire bent into "U" shape, placed in the open holes and soldered in. Then I soldered the original copper plate back on top of those connectors. Yeah, getting good solder connection there was a trick. I added some braided solder wick over the edges to make sure things made connection. I had a LOT of hot solder flowing around. THEN, I took 12 ga. stranded copper with one the ends stripped to reconnect across the outer pins, lots of solder there too.

It is quite a solder job. I have a big ass Weller soldering "stick" (the Weller gun didn't seem to have the balls for the job).

IF you can find caps with 4 pins that fit. PLEASE share the info.
I predict those amps needing the caps replaced are going to show up a LOT.
I think they ran the caps very close to the rail voltage so they got pushed hard.

 

[gogofast]

3 words: Weller...Soldering...Gun.
Radio Shack has their version which is good and less expensive:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062752

i destroyed one of those a couple years ago. other than circuit board solder gun, i do have a big stick type. i wonder if that'll do the job.

My Thread on M-504:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=422094

The sound before was Muddy at the Low End....Lifeless in a way...With the Elna Silmic II Low End is more Defined...Highs are Smooth. I going to need to step up and Replace the Mains. I did try, but the Solder Iron was no match for Main Copper Plate. I going to need to take this to my repair shop to de-solder then I will take care of the rest.

The Prices on Pappy the last 2yrs are like Gold. W.L. Weller 12 is a Real Real Closes to Pappy 12. And the Price is under 30 clams.

thanks for sharing your thought on the recap. i'm looking forward to what this amp is really supposed to sound like.

as for the pappy price, i know it's ridiculous. i'v only had shots now and then from a very reputable bar that i know, but the weller 12...i don't know. pretty good, but can't compare to the aged pappy. but then i haven't tried the newer recent blends...