To answer your question about what caps to use, you can basically use any brand/type you can physically fit in it as long as the value and voltage are the same or slightly higher. For example. You'll see .02 caps and .4.0uf caps. Back about 1970 there was an industry wide value change (someone had to justify his job) so that almost no multiples of 5 or 10 were left. what you ended up with were stuff like .022, and 4.7 or variations on a theme. Plus caps back then had a value tolerance of up to +90% and -50%. Meaning a cap that was 4uf could be as low as 2 uf and as high as 7.5uf and still be in spec. Now the highest tolerance is also the general standard of 20% Plus and minus. There are obviously 5% and 10% and the ocassional 1%. If you are doing a total component replacement of the underside (over 50% of the parts including resistors, caps, coils, trimmers, etc, then a tighter tolerance would help if you wanted to spend the $$. Even doing one circuit (for example the phono preamp) in 5% or 10% will help with keeping the RIAA curve in check. Tightening up the Tone circuit PEC's (Packaged Electronic Circuit) by using 1% or 5% replacement parts helps a good deal. But generally using a 20% part will do that over the original part.
Back to what to use. Package wise, smaller the better in most cases as this is a receiver and the larger the casing, the more chances are that it will act as an antenna and introduce RF interference into the circuit. Then you're chasing noise that you have a hard time finding out where it's coming from until you remember that certain caps near power supply and rf circuit path's will act as antenna's. Going from a physically large to a physically small component (keeping the value and voltage the same) will in most all cases get rid of the noise. Which is why I don't like sprague ATOMS's in a receiver. Comparing a DME to a ATOM is like comparing a 1958 Renault Dauphine to a New 18 wheeler Tractor-Trailer combo. Size does Matter in this case.
Installing all one brand/type of cap in a unit can impart a flavoring of that cap. Some are overly bright (what I call shrill) or overly Dark (what I would call dull or blah). You can mix them up some BUT! What you put in the RIGHT CHANNEL, do the exact same for the LEFT CHANNEL.
Take a look at these two pics. SAME UNIT. Before Rehab and about 95% done on the 2nd. Note the different caps in the main areas.
Illinois MKP Axials (Yellow) in the Tone area.
DME and Orange Drops in the Phono Section
DME's in the output section and Power supply
Nichicon UHE's or UPW in the POWER SUPPLY E-Lytics.
Nichicon UKL in the other Non Power supply E-Lytic caps.
Some guys get quite fancy with what i term "Boutique" caps (fancy Paper in Oils, Foil in water, etc, etc, etc. at exorbitant prices(at least to me)). On ocassion I may use K40-Y, K-42-Y, or K-73 films in real tight areas provided I can get them very cheap. Jack Benny takes a back seat in that 29 Maxwell of his to me, according to my wife.
It all boils down to personal preference, and the fact that caps on the the worst end of the spectrum today, are generally better than the best caps of 1950-60-70. Orange drops are good caps. And this B.S. about the 715's are better than the 716's you can't tell by my ears. They sound exactly the same.
Speaker cables. FISHER Recommended basic 18ga zip wire up to 50 ft away. From 51 to 100ft it was 16ga. If all I need it 6 to 12 ft, I go down to Home Depot and buy a couple of the inexpensive extension cords in brown or black, and cut the ends off. Works fine.
Interconnects (RCA Cables). The Inexpensive RCA Brand or even the PARTS-EXPRESS brand in 6ft and 3ft are fine. The ends are slightly large for the center to center width between the jacks but trim off some of the molding and they work fine. No need for monster cables.
Larry
BEFORE. This is as I got it. Some work had been done prior to my getting it. It all got ripped out and redone.
AFTER; The little board sitting cock-eyed is the Individual Balance-Bias Adjustment (IBBA) Board. I did change the location of the BIG 1.2K 7W resistor from between the output tubes to under the can caps. Makes more sense there to me and it doesn't interfere with the screen stability resistor layout. It's now a 10W resistor. The 330ohm 3 watt resistors on the 3 section cap were also changed to a 5w resistor. There are some wiring changes that affect the Tape Monitor / Aux sections, but that should be covered later AFTER you do the basic restore.
Your list looks good. Get about 10 rubber grommets to redo the ones on the phono tube sockets. The part # from mouser is in the COMMON PARTS NEEDED FOR FISHERS Sticky thread at the top of the forum. Also the rectifier is listed. The 2 diodes on the 1st cap can be 1n4007's but I'm a little leery of them at this spot, so I use 1n5406 or 5408. These are 3Amp diodes vs 1Amp diodes for the 1n4007's. Also add a CL-80 (just 1) to the power lead from the wall. In the pic it's just above and to the left of the bias caps. You may have to lighten up the pic to see it clearly.
