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Light bulb replacement

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I'd like to see a schematic before i say yes. if its in series (very unlikely) it could cause an issue as something else is looking for voltage to drop across bulb. If you can determine its sourced separately or parallel you should be good with an LED.
 
Seems like an awfully big bulb for a pilot light. That's like a taillight bulb size.
What tt is this for?
 
That's why I'm looking for a replacement.
The distributor wants $20.00 plus $26 to ship.
That's just nukkin' futs. Consider adapting a smaller bulb into the old base. Or if you find a proper- rated bulb for cheap but it has a different base, change the socket in your tt. There's many workarounds to this. It's only a light bulb! Post a few pics, we'll engineer something.
 
If the incandescent bulb is powered by AC, then the LED should not be used If the peak reverse voltage of the AC source can break over the LED. If breakdown does not occur, you'd see a blinky kind of light due to the rectification done by the LED, a 30Hz blink rate for 60Hz power. That would be annoying. IF the LED is a packaged lamp with rectification & current limiting & waveform smoothing (ripple reduction) built in, then it's a go.
 
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That's just nukkin' futs. Consider adapting a smaller bulb into the old base. Or if you find a proper- rated bulb for cheap but it has a different base, change the socket in your tt. There's many workarounds to this. It's only a light bulb! Post a few pics, we'll engineer something.
Rite now the unit is hid from my setup. LOL. I've been waiting 22 days for a Cart to be made. I might have to ask the local Guru if he wants to attempt the upgrade.
If the incandescent bulb is powered by AC, then the LED should not be used If the peak reverse voltage of the AC source can break over the LED. If breakdown does not occur, you'd see a blinky kind of light due to the rectification done by the LED, a 30Hz blink rate for 60Hz power. That would be annoying. IF the LED is a packaged lamp with rectification & current limiting built in, then it's a go.
I know my Harley has those bulbs, but their for 12v.
 
Don't use that LED! Your original bulb is 0.468 watts. (Voltage times current=power=18 volts times 0.026 amps) The LED that you found draws 5 watts, or more than 10 times as much current.

If you can't find a replacement incandescent, you can adapt an off-the shelf LED with a couple of resistors. You need to know the current and the voltage of the LED, then you choose the resistors to match the original bulb. I worked out the general case on the attached. If someone reading this is a circuit ace, please check it.
 

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Is it actually in or part of your tt? LEDs can radiate noise that may be of sufficient volume to be induced in tonearm wiring if so. If a standalone fixture, sure.
This was the first fly in the ointment. Thanks

Capital C, I'm going to talk to Kevin from KAB electronics tomorrow & see if he'll do the work for me. The exsiting bulb could be brighter (WHITE), plus I can't see me spending $46.00 on a 0.89 bulb. Maybe I can go with a Halogen. Thanks for the lesson. Dan M.
 
If the incandescent bulb is powered by AC, then the LED should not be used If the peak reverse voltage of the AC source can break over the LED. If breakdown does not occur, you'd see a blinky kind of light due to the rectification done by the LED, a 30Hz blink rate for 60Hz power. That would be annoying. IF the LED is a packaged lamp with rectification & current limiting & waveform smoothing (ripple reduction) built in, then it's a go.
Wouldn't the blink rate be still 60 Hz, since the 60Hz wave has 60 half-waves per second when the LED would conduct?
 
That's just nukkin' futs. Consider adapting a smaller bulb into the old base. Or if you find a proper- rated bulb for cheap but it has a different base, change the socket in your tt. There's many workarounds to this. It's only a light bulb! Post a few pics, we'll engineer something.
I agree. In particular, the 7241 mentioned above should do the trick!
 
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