Linn LP12 - Install NOS Cirkus bearing, Stack Audio Tenor sub chassis, baseboard, braces.

[Old Guy8]

EDIT 3/18/22: I've resurrected my old thread. After long delay. Going to start install of NOS Cirkus bearing and sub platter. With new Stack Audio sub-chassis.
Starting again at Post #51, where I want to make a repair stand of sorts.

EDIT: Cirkus bearing and sub chassis installed.
Stack Tenor baseboard on order, 5/21/22.

_______________________________________________

I have a Linn LP12 Valhala (re-capped) with Basik LVX arm, from 1982-83.
I've ordered an unused Cirkus bearing with inner platter. No other parts.
I may have put the cart before horse. Should have investigated what's envolved with installation before ordering.
I realize the Valhala needs to be removed. Carefully as not to get shocked. While under it, I will also address spring/bounce that's a little off center.

I have a DIY stand with cutout shelf to work under Linn.

Looking for advice and direction on what's envolved to install Cirkus. Is a new sub base required to use Cirkus? Did I over look some required parts/cost? Are the screws of Cirkus compatable to mounting holes for pre-Cirkus bearing? Don't want to change things, that I can't go back, if Cirkus doesn't work out.

Does internally mounted Valhala still have clearance with Cirkus?

Where can I find good instructions for install?
And Bounce adjustment?
What advice, from those with Linn experience?

Thanks for reading.
OG

 

[ghamilton]

 

[lazycat]

All I can tell you is the Valhalla will/should fit.
When I had my LP12 I bought a new one with Cirkus fitted rather than just upgrade my first LP12. Said dealer transferred the Ittok and Valhalla.

I always got a dealer to do this stuff. Sorry I can't be more help.

 

[billyz]

I believe the sub chassis is part of the Cirkus bearing upgrade. It should mount to the top plate , Plinth and arm board and the Vahalla will mount to the new sub chassis. Linn was very smart to make the LP12 fully upgrade able for many generations and basically modular and compatible. It has been awhile since I fooled around with mine, but it is really pretty easy to setup and upgrade.

 

[billyz]

I use 4 soup cans to elevate and setup the suspension.

 

[Old Guy8]

All I can tell you is the Valhalla will/should fit.
When I had my LP12 I bought a new one with Cirkus fitted rather than just upgrade my first LP12. Said dealer transferred the Ittok and Valhalla.

I always got a dealer to do this stuff. Sorry I can't be more help.

Did you get a look under the hood? Or was anything said by dealer about there being a sub-chassis, that Cirkus was attached to? Or was it attached directly to underside of deck?

EDIT:
Billyz's post about answers most of my following paragraph question mute..

To all readers:
There are a few sub-chassis, I see online. Some have integrated armboards, for various arm mounting needs. I don't know when early sub-chassis was introduced. Did power supplies have to move to external box before room for sub-chassis to be introduced?

 

[Old Guy8]

I believe the sub chassis is part of the Cirkus bearing upgrade. It should mount to the top plate , Plinth and arm board and the Vahalla will mount to the new sub chassis. Linn was very smart to make the LP12 fully upgrade able for many generations and basically modular and compatible. It has been awhile since I fooled around with mine, but it is really pretty easy to setup and upgrade.

So I need to identify what sub chassis that is. And how much $, used. And any other parts required.

So with the added sub-chassis weight, were the suspension springs redesigned for more load?

Thanks for info.

 

[billyz]

Did you get a look under the hood? Or was anything said by dealer about there being a sub-chassis, that Cirkus was attached to? Or was it attached directly to underside of deck?

To all readers:
There are a few sub-chassis, I see online. Some have integrated arm boards, for various arm mounting needs. I don't know when early sub-chassis was introduced. Did power supplies have to move to external box before room for sub-chassis to be introduced?

The Power Supply does not need to be moved externally. Outboard power supplies were another type of upgrade and independent of the other upgrades. The arm board was always separate until the Keel ,integrated machined combination, sub chassis / arm board. I have a Keel Klone ( machined sub chassis with integrated arm board but I still use a sub chassis mounted Vahalla power supply.

I understand the Cirkus upgrade to be a better , Stiffer, subchassis with slightly improved bearing.

 

[billyz]

Linn did offer a spring update , I replaced my springs when I did the Keel Klone sub chassis. But I don't recall them being much different than what was already in mine. I did use baby powder on the rubber bushings to allow the springs to rotate more easily when setting up the suspension. You do not want the springs torqued by rotation. totally screws up the Bounce.

 

[Old Guy8]

Linn did offer a spring update , I replaced my springs when I did the Keel Klone sub chassis. But I don't recall them being much different than what was already in mine. I did use baby powder on the rubber bushings to allow the springs to rotate more easily when setting up the suspension. You do not want the springs torqued by rotation. totally screws up the Bounce.

Thanks Billyz.

 

[lazycat]

Did you get a look under the hood? Or was anything said by dealer about there being a sub-chassis, that Cirkus was attached to? Or was it attached directly to underside of deck?

EDIT:
Billyz's post about answers most of my following paragraph question mute..

To all readers:
There are a few sub-chassis, I see online. Some have integrated armboards, for various arm mounting needs. I don't know when early sub-chassis was introduced. Did power supplies have to move to external box before room for sub-chassis to be introduced?

The valhalla was a straight swap. I had done some work myself previous to this - I did look under the 'hood'. I added a hercules at a much later date.

IIRC the cirkus should be a simple swap with the previous bearing. It was made for upgrading without any tinkering. New springs would be a good idea.

 

[lazycat]

The LP12 is a fantastic turntable.
I currently have the latest version: LP12SE with the Radikal Power Supply, Keel Sub-Chassis, & Ekos SE Tonearm minus the internal phono stage because I prefer the EAR Yoshino 324.

Many turntable aficionados hate the LP12, not because of the sound, but because they can't tinker with it in the same way as every of high-end brand make & model.

One should be trained by Linn at their factory in Scotland in order to work on and/or make adjustments to the LP12. Otherwise the LP12 will not operate at its full potential regarding the sound and mechanical performances.

I would suggest taking your LP12 to a authorized Linn dealer so they can install your upgrade components & set-up your LP12 correctly.

Just my opinion.

TBH I agree with the above. Someone who has experience will be able to tune it properly.

 

[Old Guy8]

The LP12 is a fantastic turntable.
I currently have the latest version: LP12SE with the Radikal Power Supply, Keel Sub-Chassis, & Ekos SE Tonearm minus the Linn's internal phono stage because I prefer the EAR Yoshino 324 solid state phone stage preamp.

Many turntable aficionados hate the LP12, not because of the sound, but because they can't tinker with it in the same way as every other high-end brand make & model.

One should be trained by Linn at their factory in Scotland in order to work on and/or make adjustments to the LP12. Otherwise the LP12 will not operate at its full potential regarding the sound and mechanical performances.

I would suggest taking your LP12 to a authorized Linn dealer so they can install your upgrade components & set-up your LP12 correctly.

Just my opinion.

I agree with most all of what you say.

I do wonder if Linn dealers in USA go to Scotland for training. Here nor there if they can do the repairs. IMO.

I'm starting with nearly 40 YO deck that's been recapped. No other major updates. New tonearm cable, feet, belt and oil. I've had it 6 years. Entry LVX tonearm has some issues. I'm of two minds of how much $$ to throw at it. Before I'm better off buying a near new LP12 or other for maybe $4k, OR NOT. Instead of going down dealer labor upgrade path. And still have a 40 YO TT in some respects.

I'm having second thoughts about my buying Cirkus bearing. And still needing a sub chassis. I used to work in manufacturing. Upgrade Linn parts don't come cheap.

 

[vinylkid58]

I'm having second thoughts about my buying Cirkus bearing. And still needing a sub chassis. I used to work in manufacturing. Upgrade Linn parts don't come cheap.

The Cirkus upgrade kit comes with a new sub-chassis with new bearing, new sub-platter, springs, oil etc. You don't buy just the bearing, unless you're doing something else.

jeff

 

[billyz]

There are other aftermarket upgrades too. Subchassis that use the standard bearing etc. I disagree about them being difficult to setup properly . You can download the linn lp12 setup guide online. I have it somewhere. I suppose if you are not mechanically inclined , you should have someone experienced do it. It is really not that tricky .

 

[Old Guy8]

The Cirkus upgrade kit comes with a new sub-chassis with new bearing, new sub-platter, springs, oil etc. You don't buy just the bearing, unless you're doing something else.

The Cirkus upgrade kit comes with a new sub-chassis with new bearing, new sub-platter, springs, oil etc. You don't buy just the bearing, unless you're doing something else.

jeff

Jeff,
Looks like I definitely screwed up. I just bought a bearing with inner platter.
So this Linn noob asks, why are new springs, grommets, belt and armboard in this Cirkus kit? Is the new armboard thicker or different hole pattern to mate with sub chassis?

 

[Old Guy8]

Yes they do. They get certified afterwards, same as for authorized McIntosh repair techs.

I want to be clear, don't mean to minimize the work the techs do. I applaud the manufacturers efforts to train thier techs.

 

[Old Guy8]

Factory training ensures for quality repairs and allows the trained individuals to advertise as authorized which would cover any warranty services.

I worked in manufacturing with some $500k machines that didn't go that far, with training.

 

[Old Guy8]

Back on topic:

Can the Cirkus bearing be used without Cirkus sub chassis? So with "pre-Cirkus sub chassis, I assume is on my 1983 LP12. (I made the big mistake of buying Cirkus bearing and inner platter without sub chassis.) I'm not buying a new whole Cirkus shebang kit, to just get missing sub chassis. I'll pitch the Cirkus bearing before that. And write off to learning experience. I'm irritated at myself, for not doing my homework, before hitting that ebay button.

Appears Cirkus sub chassis are being used with that Karassol bearing upgrade. Hence difficult to find.

 

[vinylkid58]

Don't see any reason why that won't work. The Cirkus sub-chassis is just heavier gauge steel that the older version. There's no other difference that I'am aware of.

jeff