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Linn LP12 - Install NOS Cirkus bearing, Stack Audio Tenor sub chassis, baseboard, braces.

I purchased an LP12 (mid '90's) in the Spring. Was equipped with a cirkus bearing, an Akito Arm that needed bearing work and a basic PS. It was a very good price so I didn't hesitate, knowing I'd need to put some time and money into it. BTW, Akito arms CAN be rebuilt. New Bearings from Johnnie @ Audio Origami. Full rewire too. A very good arm now.

Anyway, Peter Swain at Cymbiosis (https://www.cymbiosis.com/) was extremely helpful with providing the components I need to freshen everything up. I purchased a new Linn motor, suspension kit, oil, belt and motor mount kit from him. He's also written the definitive setup guide for LP12's. Worth a download and read. https://www.cymbiosis.com/downloads/

Anyway, Peter can and will answer your questions
 
x3workshop said:
I purchased an LP12 (mid '90's) in the Spring. Was equipped with a cirkus bearing, an Akito Arm that needed bearing work and a basic PS. It was a very good price so I didn't hesitate, knowing I'd need to put some time and money into it. BTW, Akito arms CAN be rebuilt. New Bearings from Johnnie @ Audio Origami. Full rewire too. A very good arm now.

Anyway, Peter Swain at Cymbiosis (https://www.cymbiosis.com/) was extremely helpful with providing the components I need to freshen everything up. I purchased a new Linn motor, suspension kit, oil, belt and motor mount kit from him. He's also written the definitive setup guide for LP12's. Worth a download and read. https://www.cymbiosis.com/downloads/

Anyway, Peter can and will answer your questions
Click to expand...
Thank you for info and source.
I ran across those setup guides. Will use them.
 
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Recieved what looks as unused Cirkus bearing.

Have ordered a Stack Audio model Tenor machined aluminum sub chassis, from UK. Easier on budget that other new alternatives.

I may use Liqui Moly synthetic 0W20 motor oil for bearing. It has moly in it, as name implies. If I can find local.

Will reuse my springs and grommets if rubber is still pliable. An Origin Live setup sheet, said the new springs can present some setup challenges.
 
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Old Guy8 said:
View attachment 2384978
Recieved what looks as unused Cirkus bearing.
Have ordered a Stack Audio model Tenor sub chassis, from UK.
I may use Liqui Moly synthetic 0W20 motor oil for bearing. It has moly in it, as name implies. If I can find local.
Will reuse my springs and grommets if rubber is still pliable. An Origin Live setup sheet, said the new springs can present some setup challenges.
Click to expand...
Look down in the bearing and you should see a reflection of your eye...if you see a black dot in the center the bearing is worn.
 
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This is the the black oil, I'm thinking of using in the bearing. It has Micron Moly additive. For protection against wear, scuffing and abrasion. Moly givings it the black color.
I realize it's for gas motors. I'm guessing it will work fine in this non severe application. I'm not a petro or chemical engineer.

Liqui Moly is another brand oil with Moly.
Easier than getting tiny bottle from Linn, where I live.
 
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It's not just a question of viscosity and lubricity, it also has to deal with the fact that engine oils have detergents in them that the Linn black oil doesn't have.

If you are not going to use the real Linn oil I would use this:

shopping


This is great oil for all kinds of rotating things.
 
Engine oil does not belong in a TT bearing. It will absorb moisture as engine oils are designed to do but there is no heat to drive it off. It is also full of additives that are not needed. It's formulated for ENGINES!
I use a light hydraulic oil in most of the spindles I service, like AW32. It has anti wear and anti oxidants additives that are useful in this application.
I wouldn't be using oils with additives unless I understood exactly what they will do long term.

BillWojo
 
I wonder how synthetic vacuum pump oil would work? Definitely made to not hold on to moisture.

I haven't used any vacuum pump oil in nearly 40 years for my Welch Scientific pump and it still works, I used it when I replaced the compressor in my refrigerator last year.
 
I've used a paraffin based turbine oil from Norvey in similar zoom spout bottle. Used it in a tt bearing. It seems a little light in viscosity. Guess viscosity to use might depend on bearing fit.
Sure is a pain in the a__, when a manufacturer doesn't publish specs for a locally available lub. Or i buy linn oil, mail order for a tiny bottle for $25 territory, shipped.
 
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Resurrected this thread 3/18/22:

After long delay, preparing to install NOS Cirkus bearing, sub-platter, and new Stack Audio sub-chassis.

First, I want to build a stand from plywood board in pic. I made this board as an insert to a 3 foot tall steel frame table. It was too short, so I had to crawl under it. Not very comfortable working that low.

I'm considering putting 12 inch long straight legs or 72° angle legs on the 21" square board. Then I can set that on a 32 inch high bench. So will be about 4feet high. Has anyone else made a repair stand for working under turntables? Do you think this would be convenient for access? Advise welcome?
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Stack Audio Tenor sub-chassis.
Machined of aluminum. Thier entry-level sub-chassis.
 
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I've used the real Linn stand and 4 soup cans...so, when I made a stand to work on Linns over a decade ago I duplicated the fixing to a tilting frame function and just made a desktop stand out of Baltic birch and maple...the parts are somewhere in all the junk in the garage so no picts...I'm back to soup cans and a level surface.
 
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Finished my repair stand. Cut 19" legs of closet rod.

Took pics for reference.

Labeled 4 motor wires and removed at board.

Working on plan for how to remove sub-chassis, armboard and arm. Hopefully I won't create problems by a poor process.
 

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RickB said:
I wonder how synthetic vacuum pump oil would work? Definitely made to not hold on to moisture.

I haven't used any vacuum pump oil in nearly 40 years for my Welch Scientific pump and it still works, I used it when I replaced the compressor in my refrigerator last year.
Click to expand...

Quality vacuum pump oil will work fine. Commercial grade turbine oil, like Mobil DTE is what I use. It is recommended by Sony, for their turntables which originally came with a container of OL-2K oil.

https://www.lubefinder.com/mobil-dte-oil-light-30.html
 
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Removed armboard and Valhalla power supply.

Opinions please:
The non-polarized cord looks original. But in serviceable condition. Should I leave it or replace with new polarized cord? Pro's and cons?
 
Old Guy8 said:
Opinions please:
The non-polarized cord looks original. But in serviceable condition. Should I leave it or replace with new polarized cord? Pro's and cons?
Click to expand...
For many years, I enjoyed an Ariston RD11s which shared the same father as the LP12. Replacing the lamp cord AC cable with a 14 gauge shielded Belden design (19364?) using a Marinco plug lowered the noise floor. Installation was a snap as the wires are terminated into the board via screws. Adjust the tie down strap.

I found it to be a cheap upgrade!
 
E-Stat said:
For many years, I enjoyed an Ariston RD11s which shared the same father as the LP12. Replacing the lamp cord AC cable with a 14 gauge shielded Belden design (19364?) using a Marinco plug lowered the noise floor. Installation was a snap as the wires are terminated into the board via screws. Adjust the tie down strap.

I found it to be a cheap upgrade!
Click to expand...
Thanks,
Have an idea on a source?
 
Partsexpress.com carries the Marinco plug but now only carries Belden 83803 power cord. I've assembled several cords using that for power amps, but really stiff double shielded 12 gauge is a bit overkill for this application.

Google "Belden 19364" and you'll find domestic suppliers that sell it by the foot. You could likely find some equivalent cable from Carol at places like Home Depot. Getting the shielded stuff is what's important.
 
E-Stat said:
Partsexpress.com carries the Marinco plug but now only carries Belden 83803 power cord. I've assembled several cords using that for power amps, but really stiff double shielded 12 gauge is a bit overkill for this application.

Google "Belden 19364" and you'll find domestic suppliers that sell it by the foot. You could likely find some equivalent cable from Carol at places like Home Depot. Getting the shielded stuff is what's important.
Click to expand...
Thanks again.
 
Later LP12s had corner braces.
As long as plinth is almost empty. Maybe I should add some steel corner brackets. Will check LP12 photos to see if I can find similar.

Stack Audio offers a baseboard of 2 layers of aluminum sandwich around vibration reducing material. Three adjustable feet. Maybe down road.
 
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