Linn LP12 - Install NOS Cirkus bearing, Stack Audio Tenor sub chassis, baseboard, braces.
- Thread starter Old Guy8
- Start date
So you don't think it's a stock cord? I wasn't going to mess with it.
May add some more tonearm cable slack.
Last edited:
Thanks Steve.Looking good, Todd!
I've still got some close clearance issues between baseboard and power supply. With the weight on the three feet. Aluminum Baseboard may flex and contact PS.
I could add a rubber gasket between plinth and baseboard. Would give a little more power supply clearance.
Ilikevinyl
Cool Breeze
Yes, you don't want the bottom cover messing with the power supply for sure. I'm sure you'll have it perfect!
tube-a-lou
Addicted Member
That's why I went for non suspended decks, it takes time and a lot of patiences setting these guy's
up. I remember years ago when I got my first Linn and called a well known Linn dealer, wow they throw
so much stuff at you saying you can't do this or that and you need us to set up your turntable (for a fee)
and you'll get it set up right but in the end I did set it up and it did play nice and sounded real nice with
a Rega arm on it, enjoy yours when you get it set up.
I have a grounded, shielded power cable on mine, just a simple 16 ga. thing, but it works just fine...the big difference I found was when I plugged the table into a power conditioner/voltage stabilizer made back in the '80s for computer use, it seemed to take the performance up a couple of notches, so for the past 24 years I have had any of my tables plugged into this thing, and it in turn plugged into the main power conditioner.
I'd have to figure out the power connections on the Valhala. Where to connect hot and common. And where the ground.
And change cord clamp, and make clearance for cord exiting.
Another subject. I read here, you have an Opus3 cart. I'm considering one, as upgrade from Gold2.
Last edited:
The power cable grounds to the back stud where the P-clip is.
And yes, the Opus 3 is a worthwhile step above the Gold...I feel it is much better than my original Platinum, and better than my original Sonata.
I have had Golds before and have really tried to like them but they just didn't hold a candle to other MM/MI cartridges or especially to MC carts.
The Sonata was what I felt the minimum acceptable Grado, but to me the LO Opus 3 is better, more extended, clearer, an inexpensive cartridge that has stayed on my Linn for quite a while now.
And yes, the Opus 3 is a worthwhile step above the Gold...I feel it is much better than my original Platinum, and better than my original Sonata.
I have had Golds before and have really tried to like them but they just didn't hold a candle to other MM/MI cartridges or especially to MC carts.
The Sonata was what I felt the minimum acceptable Grado, but to me the LO Opus 3 is better, more extended, clearer, an inexpensive cartridge that has stayed on my Linn for quite a while now.
Thanks Rick.
I'm not very confident messing with electronics.
My tube phono preamps are not adjustable for MC. Fixed at 48db gain. So guess I only have the high output Opus3, as an option.
Think I'm finished!
First record, Basie and Zoot.
Corner braces and new baseboard installed.
Three adjustable feet.
I don't know if I can tell a SQ difference with these two changes. The three adjustable legs, simplifies leveling.
The Cirkus bearing and Stack sub-chassis, yes I hear a change for better.
Last edited:
FreaK
is his own damn self
I know this is sort of Old Guy8's thread, but it seems like a lot of the Linn heads are in here talking about upgrades. Today I hit a wall with my stock felt mat. it got stuck to the record between sides yet again! So I'm going to go get a Pro-Ject Cork-It today and will probably just be happy it's too heavy to stick. But what are your collective thoughts? I deeply and profoundly hate using this felt mat.
I know Linn prescribes felt. But I use about a $17 shipped (in 2020.) Rubber/cork, 3mm matt with 0.5 mm label recess. My invoice doesn't specify its diameter. But fits just inside lip of platter. I think of good quality.
It stays in place. The rubber adds weight too so stays down.
Sometimes convenience means a lot.
Bought from My Needle Store on Ebay.
Do measure the platter. So you get a matt dia that looks like it belongs.
It stays in place. The rubber adds weight too so stays down.
Sometimes convenience means a lot.
Bought from My Needle Store on Ebay.
Do measure the platter. So you get a matt dia that looks like it belongs.
Last edited:
FreaK
is his own damn self
Way Excellent or Donut? It seems to me that each platter style will be better suited by a different mat style.
I did end up getting the Pro-Ject, but it wasn’t the full cork but the cork&rubber which resembled Old Guy’s. Pity Project didn’t decide to include a label recess.
I did end up getting the Pro-Ject, but it wasn’t the full cork but the cork&rubber which resembled Old Guy’s. Pity Project didn’t decide to include a label recess.
Ok I need some guidance. I got a Crikus baring and inner platter but no Subchassis but I understand it can be fitted in the old subchassis with the use of spacers. My question is how thick should the spacers be and where to put them? I can’t afford to get a subchassis at this time.
All I remember is that no spacers were required just different fasteners