Linn LP12 - Install NOS Cirkus bearing, Stack Audio Tenor sub chassis, baseboard, braces.

[Old Guy8]

Received Stack Audio Tenor baseboard and corner braces today from UK.
Baseboard doesn't ring when tapped.

For adding corner braces:
I have to decide if just wood glue is sufficient. Or, if wood screws and wood glue are needed? Corner braces are just 3/8" thick.

 

[mkane]

Slow dry Titebond. One of those fancy nail guns would be nice as they leave a small impression and would suck it up tight.

 

[Old Guy8]

Slow dry Titebond. One of those fancy nail guns would be nice as they leave a small impression and would suck it up tight.

Pneumatic guns I have:
I only have a 18 gage (.50") Brad nailer.
And a 1/4" crown stapler.
I'd be afraid the brads are too large. Or staples might split the wood plinth or braces.

 

[RickB]

Yep, skip the Akito, the Ittok is much better...

Or, get another arm board and install a Rega RB series tonearm that has been rewired with the Incognito kit, has the Michel VTA adjuster and Michel counterweight...

 

[Old Guy8]

Yep, skip the Akito, the Ittok is much better...

Or, get another arm board and install a Rega RB series tonearm that has been rewired with the Incognito kit, has the Michel VTA adjuster and Michel counterweight...

Thanks, Rick.
I have another thread where I asked about tonearm upgrade ideas. I got VERY mixed suggestions of where to spend, on the Linn. Best bang for buck.

The Basik LVX bearings seem to not have noticable issues. I did a bearing test with arm floating horizontal and no anti-skate.

The new Cirkus bearing, Stack Subchassis and baseboard was an investment. For a 40 YO turntable. Significant improvement to my old ears.

Will evaluate after baseboard and braces are installed. Decide if I'm happy where it's at.

Won't say $ I already have in it. It adds up quickly! There's a point where I might ask. Should I just buy a new $3-4k table instead.

 

[Ilikevinyl]

Yep, skip the Akito, the Ittok is much better...

Or, get another arm board and install a Rega RB series tonearm that has been rewired with the Incognito kit, has the Michel VTA adjuster and Michel counterweight...

Thanks, Rick.
I have another thread where I asked about tonearm upgrade ideas. I got VERY mixed suggestions of where to spend, on the Linn. Best bang for buck.

The Basik LVX bearings seem to not have noticable issues. I did a bearing test with arm floating horizontal and no anti-skate.

The new Cirkus bearing, Stack Subchassis and baseboard was an investment. For a 40 YO turntable. Significant improvement to my old ears.

Will evaluate after baseboard and braces are installed. Decide if I'm happy where it's at.

Won't say $ I already have in it. It adds up quickly! There's a point where I might ask. Should I just buy a new $3-4k table instead.

Here's the Linn Ittok bearing test.

 

[RickB]

I have a Basik arm in addition to my Ittok...there is no comparison...even on my Axis table the Ittok was superior, but I have rewired north of a hundred different Rega arms over the past couple of decades and consider a modded one to be quite good....I gave one to a friend of mine that had a stock Rega arm and he was gobsmacked just how much the rewiring did for his Basis turntable, nothing changed but the same series of arm just good wiring. The Michel mods are a must for VTA adjustment and a low CG for the counterweight.

.

 

[Ilikevinyl]

I have a Basik arm in addition to my Ittok...there is no comparison...even on my Axis table the Ittok was superior, but I have rewired north of a hundred different Rega arms over the past couple of decades and consider a modded one to be quite good....I gave one to a friend of mine that had a stock Rega arm and he was gobsmacked just how much the rewiring did for his Basis turntable, nothing changed but the same series of arm just good wiring. The Michel mods are a must for VTA adjustment and a low CG for the counterweight.

.

Yes, Ittok is an excellent arm for a Linn LP-12. The Naim ARO tonearm is suppose to be the best on the LP-12. If you can find one.

 

[Old Guy8]

I have a Basik arm in addition to my Ittok...there is no comparison...even on my Axis table the Ittok was superior, but I have rewired north of a hundred different Rega arms over the past couple of decades and consider a modded one to be quite good....I gave one to a friend of mine that had a stock Rega arm and he was gobsmacked just how much the rewiring did for his Basis turntable, nothing changed but the same series of arm just good wiring. The Michel mods are a must for VTA adjustment and a low CG for the counterweight.

.

I'm sure your accurate in what you write here. Won't dispute that.

I have a re-capped Valhala PS and old motor that could die tomorrow.
I could put $4K in this table with a new tonearm. Depending on option.

 

[Old Guy8]

Here's the Linn Ittok bearing test.

Thanks. Will watch it.
I did a test a utuber Cheshireaudio posted.

 

[Ilikevinyl]

I'm sure your accurate in what you write here. Won't dispute that.

I have a re-capped Valhala PS and old motor that could die tomorrow.
I could put $4K in this table with a new tonearm. Depending on option.

The sky is the limit with upgrades with a LP-12. I think the top model now sells for $30K!

 

[Old Guy8]

The sky is the limit with upgrades with a LP-12. I think the top model now sells for $30K!

Not to be critical of Linn. There's a lot of super priced audio gear out there. They're one of them, IMO.

 

[RickB]

Yeah mine is a Cirkus/Valhalla...I overhauled the Vahalla myself, (also rebuilt the power supply in my Axis, too), but I learned how to service Linns a couple of decades ago working for a dealership...I put corner braces in mine of black wrinkle painted steel, very rigid, Rosewood plinth, black Ittok...this is my second LP12...my first that I bought on Usenet back in the '90's resides at the friend's house where I am working right now still playing strong, he likes it a lot (and he has a bunch of turntables from big Basis to VPI, Michell, etc...) but it's a stock Aformosia plinth in it...

 

[Ilikevinyl]

Yeah mine is a Cirkus/Valhalla...I overhauled the Vahalla myself, (also rebuilt the power supply in my Axis, too), but I learned how to service Linns a couple of decades ago working for a dealership...I put corner braces in mine of black wrinkle painted steel, very rigid, Rosewood plinth, black Ittok...this is my second LP12...my first that I bought on Usenet back in the '90's resides at the friend's house where I am working right now still playing strong, he likes it a lot (and he has a bunch of turntables from big Basis to VPI, Michell, etc...) but it's a stock Aformosia plinth in it...

Rosewood is my favorite.

 

[tube-a-lou]

View attachment 2567444
I have an issue, a single bounce of platter and armboard about one rotation of time after starting motor. I think it's a belt issue. I'll invert outer platter and have look. I lost track of which belt side was out and edge up to install same way. It's a lightly used belt.

I polished platter with Mother's aluminum polish, by hand. Will do more polishing and wax after.

Grado Gold2 at 1.63 g. Sounds pretty good

Have you done the perfect piston test, you take your finger and tap the spindle and the platter and arm
should go up and down like a perfect piston. If not you have to twist those little spring's till it's right, I've
had two Linn's in my life and it drove me nut's till I got it right or till I almost electrocuted myself one day
and that was that (ouch!)

 

[Old Guy8]

Have you done the perfect piston test, you take your finger and tap the spindle and the platter and arm
should go up and down like a perfect piston. If not you have to twist those little spring's till it's right, I've
had two Linn's in my life and it drove me nut's till I got it right or till I almost electrocuted myself one day
and that was that (ouch!)

After two sessions of moving springs around. Walked away when I had, had enough! Finally got armboard centered. I've pressed it down to test it. Good enough.
May have to go through it again after installing corner braces.

 

[Old Guy8]

Installed corner braces. Wood glue and 1/4" crown staples holding in place.

The two threaded studs holding Valhala in place are tall enough to be 1/32" from contacting baseboard. Deciding whether to shorten the studs, or other solution. Don't want them contacting baseboard.

One of the caps on the power supply is about a 1/32" away from touching the baseboard also.

Baseboard may flex with weight and touch power supply or two studs. Got to figure a solution.

My B stock Tenor baseboard didn't fit plinth recess. Had to belt sand one end. I will repaint belt sanded end.

 

[Ilikevinyl]

After two sessions of moving springs around. Walked away when I had, had enough! Finally got armboard centered. I've pressed it down to test it. Good enough.
May have to go through it again after installing corner braces.

Linn is harder to get the balance correct than my Thorens TD-160. With the Linn you have to deal with the big arm board so it's not touching the plinth around the edges. The TD-160 has a small arm cutout.

 

[Ilikevinyl]

View attachment 2587934 View attachment 2587935
Installed corner braces. Wood glue and 1/4" crown staples holding in place.

The two threaded studs holding Valhala in place are tall enough to be close to contacting baseboard. Deciding whether to shorten the studs, or other solution. Don't want them contacting baseboard.

My B stock Tenor baseboard didn't fit plinth recess. Had to belt sand one end. I will repaint belt sanded end.

Looking good, Todd!

 

[RickB]

The only thing I see that concerns me is the lack of slack in the phono lead, but if it doesn't interfere with the bounce....