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Little Dot I+ Headphone Amp Impressions

Mr. Lin

Lunatic Member
Thus far I've had time for three reasonably long listening sessions, and the I+ has now spent around 40 hours hooked up to my Hagtech Frybaby for burn in, so I think it's safe to lay out some initial impressions.

I noticed right away that this amp simply sounds better than the modified Grado RA-1 headphone amp I've been using. That's saying a lot since the RA-1 costs about twice as much as the I+, which I purchased with the $50 WE408A tube upgrade (I know, I know, you can get those tubes cheaper, but hindsight is 20/20 etc...) at about $185 shipped.

I'm currently using the I+ exclusively with my fairly new Jolida 100 tube CD player. I did have some reservations about pairing up the two tube components, and whether that would be too much of a good thing, but in the end it's not really that much "tube" relatively speaking - meaning this is not an SET amp with a tube preamp and tube CD player, if you know what I'm saying. I did not expect the I+ to be neutral, considering it's low price, and that's pretty much the case, it definitely had the classic tube sound out of the box: three dimensional, warm, lots of tonal color. Fun, for sure, but far from mind-blowing, which I did not expect either.

I took the fact that the sound of the I+ didn't knock me out of my chair in stride because it's a versatile little amp, and I've already built up a small army of things to try with it. For those who don't know, the I+ is a hybrid amp, using both tubes and transistors. Now, I would have gone with one of the other all-tube models but for one thing - well two things - the low price, and, more importantly, the option to "op-amp roll." :D In fact, the I+ was designed with obsessive compulsive people like me in mind. There's a single dual circuit op-amp that's installed in a DIP gold plated socket, allowing easy removal and installation of different op-amps, and durability since you know most of us are not going to leave well enough alone and just try one or two different op-amps. :banana:

I'll talk a little about how the op-amp thing is going so far because I've tried three, including the stock one. As of yet I have not tried any other tubes, though I have two extra pairs and another in the mail (thanks Jim!). Right away I can tell you that the stock op-amp is not impressive. I've been going through the massive tube and op-amp rolling thread on Headfi and noticed someone's comment that the stock op-amp was sort of a bottleneck, restricting performance, and I think that's a good way to put it.

Last night I tried the BB (Burr-Brown) 2134PA in the middle of a listening session. The difference was very small, a slight increase in detail, just a little better than the stock op-amp, but noticeable. Tonight I switched that out for the BB 2107. This made a very big difference, actually more than I'd anticipated changing op-amps would yield. Even more detail, better imaging, and a more dynamic sound. Listening to XTC's "English Settlement" before and after, the 2107 made everything more punchy, with great impact, and not just percussion instruments. The sound of guitar strings being plucked is much clearer. There's more micro-detail, making instruments and voices sound simply more realistic. In short, there's more life to the music now. Very nice, I feel like I'm starting to hear more of what this amp can do.

I'll end it here for the moment until I've had more time to listen. Eventually I plan to start a separate thread focusing on what I hear (or don't hear) with specific op-amp models, and I hope others will chime in with their experiences. I plan to try a pair of NOS Telefunken CV4010 tubes tomorrow, I'll update at that point.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to my other thread asking about the I+, which made it a little easier to decide to buy it.
 
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Very nice review Mr. Lin. Sounds like the Little Dot is very "tweakable" and a good smart buy. Having that flexibility is great. Look forward to when you start rolling tubes. You might have to go through the different op-amps to see if there are any differences with the other tubes.

I love pics... could you post some?

Oh and hey, how does it compare to the Pro-ject Head Box?

Cheers!
 
Congrats,
I also have had a tone of fun rolling tubes and op-amps, and both have a huge impact on my AKGK 701's. I also am using a PS Audio Power cable with mine.
Regards,
Jim
 
Boredom got the best of me last night so I took my Little Dot 1+ and put it on the bench to look at the performance. For the price, this unit continues to impress me. Excellent build quality. I've still got the stock tubes (the cheapest option) and op-amps. I did a quick frequency response sweep and it is very wide (as advertised). Flat from below 10 Hz to well above 50kHz and rolls smoothly off beyond that. The distortion isn't great, but it matches what was claimed for the unit, about 0.3% or so. Clipping is not quite symmetrical, about 7.5 volts on the negative side and 8.5 volts on the positive side (into a 53 ohm load). The square wave response is pretty good. A 1kHz sq wave looks good up until clipping, and a 10kHz wave looks good until about 4Vpk, after which it showed some slew rate limiting on the negative side. No signs of ringing or any instabilities at all, even when pushed to clipping.
The one thing that did surprise me is that it has a net phase inversion from input to output. Some people claim to be sensitive to this on speaker systems, but I don't know if that is true of headphones. Is there even a standard direction for the diaphram to move given a certain polarity of signal in headphones?
I didn't get too involved in the measurements. Just a quick look. If I get bored enough to try any tweaking on my own, I would probably try to eliminate the tube stage altogether. I suspect (just guessing) that the tube stage is causing the distortion to be higher than it needs to be, and that the only reason it is there is to add the "tube sound" that I'm not convinced I am in favor of. Give me clean, accurate reproduction. Eliminating the tube stage would probably eliminate the phase inversion also.
But probably the biggest gains could be gotten by playing with the op-amp and output stage compensation. The bandwidth is quite a bit higher than it needs to be. Trading off some bandwidth might allow the square wave performance to be improved, which is the "Holy Grail" as far as I'm concerned. That may be why rolling op-amps can improve this unit so much. If it was compensated a little more "conservatively", then the op-amp would make very little difference.
At any rate, the next step would be to draw up a schematic for it since there doesn't seem to be one available. From that I could see if bypassing the tube stage or compensating the output stage looks feasible. But for now, I'm happy just to listen to it. I forgot how much I enjoyed listening through headphones.

Terry
 
Very nice review Mr. Lin. Sounds like the Little Dot is very "tweakable" and a good smart buy. Having that flexibility is great. Look forward to when you start rolling tubes. You might have to go through the different op-amps to see if there are any differences with the other tubes.

I love pics... could you post some?

Oh and hey, how does it compare to the Pro-ject Head Box?

Cheers!

Ah, you remembered that I have the Head Box SE. Well, it's been out on loan to a friend for nearly a year so I haven't heard it in a while, but it was generally a little better than the RA-1. That was before I tweaked the RA-1 a bit though. I think I would certainly prefer the I+ over the Head Box SE, although the HB SE is a good headphone amp for sure.

I feel you on the pics, I always bug people to post some in these kind of threads. I'll take some tonight and put them up.

Jim, you've been helpful, particularly in jump-starting my knowledge of op-amps. Like a lot of other things in this hobby, once I get started I take it pretty far, and I'm currently doing a lot of reading on op-amps. I have not yet tried the LM4563 you sent me, but that will probably be next. The tubes haven't arrived yet, can't wait to try those out.

Terry, thanks for taking the time to take some measurements on the I+.
 
I also am using a PS Audio Power cable with mine.
Regards,
Jim

There's some very pertinent information I forgot to mention:

I never used the stock power cord, I went right for the Grover power cord. I have a Shunyata Diamondback and Cardas Golden that I haven't tried with the I+ yet, but will.

As for interconnects, I'm using one of the best of my own designs, tri-braided with all solid-core silver conductors, and silver Eichmann Bullets. See picture below.

Additionally, I happened to have a spare HiFi Tuning Silver Star fuse since I'd ordered the wrong value for my CD player. As luck would have it, the fuse is the correct value for the I+. :banana: I installed the fuse the second night of listening and noticed improved resolution, meaning simply that everything was clearer.

So everything I say about op-amps and tube rolling is with an I+ that has these two not-cheap upgrades already installed, keep that in mind. Just started listening about 15 minutes ago, I plan to try different tubes soon.
 

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Nice looking Interconnects! let us know your thoughts as you continue to explore the 1+.
Regards,
Jim
 
Nice looking Interconnects! let us know your thoughts as you continue to explore the 1+.
Regards,
Jim

Thank you Jim, I've put a lot of work into the cables I make.

Ok, here's the update for the evening. First of all, as requested, I've taken some pictures. For those not familiar with the I+, the op-amp that's "rolled" is in the center of the circuit surrounded by four capacitors. The little thing in my hand in the other picture is one of the shunts, or jumpers, used to make the I+ compatible with various families of tubes. And finally, a picture of the Telefunken tubes I tried tonight, because many of us love to look at and handle tubes. :D

I spent quite a few hours listening to the I+ tonight. After a couple hours I switched from the stock (upgrade) WE408A tubes to the CV4010 Telefunkens. My one complaint about the I+ so far is that it's sort of a pain to take a apart, at least mine is. The holes in the bottom half of the chassis don't line up perfectly with the rest of it, which makes it difficult to get the screws back in when you're done. It's also a little tougher than I thought to safely remove an op-amp, and even more difficult to put one back in the socket. Overall, perhaps I'm exaggerating, and I'll survive, in any case..

To be honest I'm not sure if I hear as big a difference between the tube types as I did with the op-amps. There was a difference though - the Telefunkens sounded "bigger," with a wider soundstage, and perhaps a tad more lush than the WE408A. I could be imagining this, but it seems there's a little less dynamic impact now. Because the Telefunkens and the Mullards I have are from the same family of tubes, I was able to quickly install the Mullards a little while ago. Again, no dramatic changes, still a wide, three-dimensional sound like the Telefunkens, a little warm and very smooth.

They both sound good, but I'm reserving any final judgments as these really need to be left on the Frybaby for a while to break in. I think I'll start with the Mullard since it's already in there. Jim was kind enough to sell me a pair of Tung Sol 408's, those should be here soon and they're supposed to be quite good.

I'm really enjoying the I+. It sounds much better now than it did out of the box - and even then it sounded nice. For the money its performance is very impressive.
 

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I'll be interested to see your impression of the Tung-Sol NOS 6028's as compared to the other tubes. Those and the LT1364 op-amp is the winning combo to this point with the AKG K701's
Regards,
Jim
 
I'll be interested to see your impression of the Tung-Sol NOS 6028's as compared to the other tubes. Those and the LT1364 op-amp is the winning combo to this point with the AKG K701's
Regards,
Jim

I now have the Tun Sol tubes, I'll probably roll them in tomorrow evening. I can't wait to try the LT1364 op-amp, so much is made of that op-amp in the Headfi thread, and there was already such a dramatic improvement with the 2107. So many potential combinations, it makes my head spin.

Now, things will really start to get interesting when I begin putting single-circuit op-amps on Brown Dog adapters. The adapters are already on the way, and I already have an AD8620 that's SOIC, so it has to be soldered to an adapter.

My only concern is whether these adapters will fit in the I+ with the bottom chassis back on. I'm prepared to leave it off and use other footers underneath the I+ is that's the case. This came up in the Headfi thread, but no one ever reported whether or not it works.
 
I noticed right away that this amp simply sounds better than the modified Grado RA-1 headphone amp I've been using. That's saying a lot since the RA-1 costs about twice as much as the I+, which I purchased with the $50 WE408A tube upgrade (I know, I know, you can get those tubes cheaper, but hindsight is 20/20 etc...) at about $185 shipped.

Doesn't surprise me after seeing the inside of a Grado RA-1. Not much going on there at all.
2142149.jpg
 
I now have the Tun Sol tubes, I'll probably roll them in tomorrow evening. I can't wait to try the LT1364 op-amp, so much is made of that op-amp in the Headfi thread, and there was already such a dramatic improvement with the 2107. So many potential combinations, it makes my head spin.

Now, things will really start to get interesting when I begin putting single-circuit op-amps on Brown Dog adapters. The adapters are already on the way, and I already have an AD8620 that's SOIC, so it has to be soldered to an adapter.

My only concern is whether these adapters will fit in the I+ with the bottom chassis back on. I'm prepared to leave it off and use other footers underneath the I+ is that's the case. This came up in the Headfi thread, but no one ever reported whether or not it works.

I think you will find the 2107 and the LT1364 are a lot closer than some of the others, but to me the LT1364 is a bit smoother and controlled with not quite the output level of the 2107.
Regards,
Jim
 
I'm aware of those pictures and what's hidden inside the RA-1. Funny because several months after I got it one of the channels went out because the RCA sockets were loose and turned when I used locking RCA connectors. Grado decided even though I payed for my amp I shouldn't be allow inside of it, they had security hex screws installed, each with a little bump in the center so a normal hex wrench wouldn't work. When I finally got the right tool and opened it up for repair I replaced the RCA sockets with much better ones, and re-wired some of it with solid core silver wire. This made an improvement. But the fact that they didn't tighten down the sockets enough, and the hex screw thing really left a bad taste in my mouth.

After I saw those pictures I was surprised that the RA-1 sounds as good as it does. It's actually not that bad, but again, the I+ is better at half the price. I guess with the RA-1 you're paying for the mahogany case.

Last night I pulled the trigger on a NOS pair of Sylvania gold pin 6028's, which are supposed to be one of the better tubes to use with this amp.

Just plugged in the Tung Sol tubes...
 
Nope, just their cartridges.

Lol, that's a scary thought! Again, it's not as bad as it looks, nor is it as bad as the person who took those pictures makes it sound - and I say that as someone who's listened to it for a long time. What bothers me about this is how grossly over-priced the RA-1 is.

But I suppose that's something that's endemic in the world of hi-fi. Just look at what's inside the Rega headphone amp:


http://pqltd.blogspot.com/2006/11/rega-ear-gutted.html
 
Last night I pulled the trigger on a NOS pair of Sylvania gold pin 6028's, which are supposed to be one of the better tubes to use with this amp.

Now add a pair of 1950s Mullard 6028s... :para:

The Brown Dog adapters arrived today, see picture below. Boy am I going to have fun soldering a tiny SOIC op-amp onto one of these.
 

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