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Losing my mind over Dual tonearm wires.

cschaub

cschaub

New Member
I needed to replace my tonearm wires on my Dual CS 1257 because the originals broke and couldn't hold a solder, very brittle. I ordered another set from a rip-out place, and they proved to be equally brittle. I cleared all of my solder with a wick, and this is my third attempt. These are the thinnest wires I've ever seen!! Can anybody reccomend something that would work with the low mass arm and be more durable and workable? Thanks, just very frustrated!
 
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The factory arm wires are just fine for the application. They are not the least bit brittle, as long as one does not try to tow a car with them. Perhaps the new set is of sub-par quality, as these things can certainly be soldered with the right tools and steady hand.
 
I sympathize with the OP. I tried soldering Dual wires quite a few years ago. I'm not saying the wires are unusually thin. They look about like, say, the wires on my AR XA. But the technique of soldering such fine wires has evaded me. I'm amazed that production-line workers were able to do this in the factories. As for my Dual, it's now with Fred Longworth for restauration.
 
The "new" wires were a set from and old 1257 turntable. I just can't get the solder to be stable. Will any more modern wires work with this arm? I need to get a new set.
 
There's absolutely no doubt in my mind that the 12xx series Dual tonearm wires degrade with time

Am pretty sure it's oxidation of the exposed wire strands and that the extent of this process will vary depending on conditions when used/stored

Mine eventually got so brittle I just had enough and replaced them

This re-wire was done nearly three years ago and the 1219 has behaved flawlessly ever since and remains my daily driver
 
I once soldered extremely fine wires. My technique was to make a proper sized puddle on the metal part, then put the fine wire into the puddle without the iron touching it.
My repair job only had to last a couple of weeks until a replacement part came in, so I can't attest to the longevity of the repair job.
Good luck.
 
FWIW, I just recently had to unsolder and resolder the wires on one of my Duals and the wires were OK. They soldered up with no issues.
But if I had to do a complete rewire, I'd use wires from a mouse. I've got a boatload of them tucked away here and there.
 
Montycat said:
I used Litz wire bought on eBay in a kit for a Dual rewire. On that arm I bypassed the headshell sled too. It worked fine.

You can also get the KABusa version which is likely better.

https://www.kabusa.com/frameset.htm?/superflex.htm
Click to expand...

When you say you bypassed the sled, does that mean you took the wires straight to plugs and didn't bother with the little board that the sled prongs contact?

My 1241 is giving me fits. Put new RCA's on to try to get rid of a hum, and they didn't. Then the auto stopped autoing, and the right channel where the hum was mostly, continued to hum but stopped delivering any music. Think a damaged red wire finally gave up the ghost completely.

Thinking it might be easier to rewire the whole damn thing instead of trying to figure out where the hum is coming from.
 
Montycat said:
That's exactly what I did. I described it in some detail here:

http://afishneedsastereo.blogspot.com/2015/07/dual-1229q-rewire-and-overhaul.html?m=1

I would probably modify the cartridge clips next time. I think those came from a printer cable and they are awfully long.
Click to expand...

Since my last post I believe I've isolated it to the red wire in the sled being loose toward the sled prong end. I tested it with a DMM and got a intermittent signal, then rearranged the red wire and got a stronger signal. Also tested both channels from the mini-board in the clamshell that the sled prongs contact and got strong signals all the way to the tips of the RCAs.

Do you have any experience with the sleds sold at Turntable Needles?
https://www.turntableneedles.com/Dual-TK-24-Turntable-Headshell-Sled-236242-TK-14_p_738.html
Willing to spend $40 to solve the signal/hum problem.

Now it's just a STEUERPIMPEL deal.
 
Good progress. Rewiring as I did is kind of a last resort.

I have no experience with Turntable Needles sleds. I wonder if they are reproductions or OEM? I do have experience with many vintage Dual cartridge carriers and with the aftermarket ones for a Dual 1019 on eBay from Pat's and Best Audio.

I found the Best Audio ones that were injection molded to be great. Pat used to 3D print them and the finish was rough and not as durable but they might have improved that. When I bought them the injection molded type was far better in my opinion. They might now be offering molded, not printed so just check the description before ordering.
 
Montycat said:
Good progress. Rewiring as I did is kind of a last resort.

I have no experience with Turntable Needles sleds. I wonder if they are reproductions or OEM? I do have experience with many vintage Dual cartridge carriers and with the aftermarket ones for a Dual 1019 on eBay from Pat's and Best Audio.

I found the Best Audio ones that were injection molded to be great. Pat used to 3D print them and the finish was rough and not as durable but they might have improved that. When I bought them the injection molded type was far better in my opinion. They might now be offering molded, not printed so just check the description before ordering.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I’ll look into the sled production M.O.

Cut and put a new S.P. on the pin but the arm is having some problem moving horizontally. If I go manual and then hit stop the arm will move back, but stop about a half inch shy of home. Ever seen that?

Are you in SW Washington, or Canucks Vancouver?
 
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Mark of Best Audio has put much effort into designing and perfecting his MOLDED sleds. Fit, finish, and electrical design are superb.
Better than the original.
I had purchased a few printed sleds from someone else and the plastic pin on which the Dual arm's finger lift pivots, broke off in several instances. Needless to say, I felt it to be my responsibility to eat the cost of a new Dual arm head, in these cases, rather than my customers whose 1218 (s) I had fixed.
 
NoTransistors said:
Mark of Best Audio has put much effort into designing and perfecting his MOLDED sleds. Fit, finish, and electrical design are superb.
Better than the original.
I had purchased a few printed sleds from someone else and the plastic pin on which the Dual arm's finger lift pivots, broke off in several instances. Needless to say, I felt it to be my responsibility to eat the cost of a new Dual arm head, in these cases, rather than my customers whose 1218 (s) I had fixed.
Click to expand...

Who would you recommend for a sled for my 721? Its the only table I own with a removable headshell and lately been thinking I'd like to get a second headshell for a mono cartridge option.
 
Legrace said:
Who would you recommend for a sled for my 721? Its the only table I own with a removable headshell and lately been thinking I'd like to get a second headshell for a mono cartridge option.
Click to expand...

It came with a TK-24 but TK-14 will fit. The 24 is better IMO but I recommend the new aftermarket ones on eBay from Best Audio. Good wires, nice pins, no built in age related issues.
 
I have a Dual 1218. I never had a problem with the wires. However, your soldering problem makes me wonder if the wires are made from aluminum, which of course, solders like crap. Anyway, that is an unknown. A trick you might try if you have some tiny wire that could work for the tonearm would be to crimp a short section of the good wire onto the ends of the old wire, making sure the new wire is copper. Probably not ideal, but might be a fix for the problem. If the crimped on wire is near the headshell and RCA jacks, it shouldn't be a problem.
 
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