Oldsansui441
Super Member
Hmm, l wouldn't recommend raising bias current above any factory spec either.
Luxman L-430 Recap / Overhaul
- Thread starter Trevor White
- Start date
Hello,
Can anyone share a BOMs list for the L430? I'm interested in re-capping my amp as the right channel doesn't come on for a few min after startup. I'm OK at soldering and following instructions but don't have any knowledge on parts and supplies.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Can anyone share a BOMs list for the L430? I'm interested in re-capping my amp as the right channel doesn't come on for a few min after startup. I'm OK at soldering and following instructions but don't have any knowledge on parts and supplies.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Trevor White
Classic not Plastic
Hi there mate.
Look, I'm sorry but I did not create a BOM whilst performing this upgrade/recap. I used the parts list in the Service Manual, along with what I actually pulled out of the machine. It was a slow way to do it as it meant multiple orders to Mouser etc, but in the end it was wise to verify the actual parts to what was listed in the Service Manual.
You can get a PDF of the Service Manual here.
Good Luck.
Binkman
Lunatic Member
G'day @Trevor White! Lost your project link can ya post it again? It was very informative and I posted it several times for reference.
Thanks Trevor, I think thats what I will do. I was hoping to speed up the process and minimize the amount of orders from Mouser.
Cheers,
Trevor White
Classic not Plastic
Hi Bink,
Which project link do you mean? Presumably not this thread as you have just posted to it.
Trevor
Binkman
Lunatic Member
Well I guess I can look your projects up.. duh.. lol. THIS IS IT!
(sorry had a Joe Biden moment)
Last edited:
Trevor White
Classic not Plastic
Thank you very much for this write up/instructional, Trevor. I stumbled upon this thread whilst googling for reasons why my L-430’s treble output seemed to need a boost from the treble tone control to sound “right”. I’ve, likewise, owned this amp since ‘82. It has lost output a couple of times in the past 6 years. It was brought the a general electronics repair shop for fixin’. I am sure the parts installed may have just been from a general parts bin. I am much happy to see this endeavor of yours as I would like to rebuild this amp. The pics and narration and the troubleshooting are very enlightening. Thanks again. Now to look for the caps to replace the old ones with
Binkman
Lunatic Member
G'day Welcome to A.K.!
Give the thread a good read because @Trevor White made a couple of cap changes, I believe he changed his mains caps in the power supply a second time and perhaps elsewhere. Also look for aged solder joints.
Give the thread a good read because @Trevor White made a couple of cap changes, I believe he changed his mains caps in the power supply a second time and perhaps elsewhere. Also look for aged solder joints.
I have an R-3055 and it has the baby blue rubycons as well. I have purchased a mix of the nichicon FG and elna s II along with mundorf filter caps which match all the original uf values however some have minimally higher voltage ratings. Did you measure all the rubycons you removed? If so, how did they look? I haven’t started any work yet on mine as I have had numerous comments which recommend to do it in small methodical stages. I have tested a number of the caps in circuit for esr and most look okay.
This is a unit which has been setting in its original box and hasn’t been powered up in years. From your pictures there are lots of similarities. I also noticed some of your caps had black marks on their tops - did you put them there? If not what do they indicate? Ideas? Also, what would you have done differently?
This is a unit which has been setting in its original box and hasn’t been powered up in years. From your pictures there are lots of similarities. I also noticed some of your caps had black marks on their tops - did you put them there? If not what do they indicate? Ideas? Also, what would you have done differently?
Trevor White
Classic not Plastic
Hello from Australia 
I'm very gratified that people are still finding this thread, and finding it useful.
The slightly higher voltage ratings on your replacement caps are fine, in fact I normally go up one step in voltage spec as a matter of course. As long as the capacitance ratings match. I did measure all of the old caps I replaced, and it was a real mixed bag. Some were still relatively close to spec, whilst others were well out of spec. It's amazing that the unit functioned as well as it did! I also only tested the old caps once they were out of the circuit. If the amp has been sitting in it's box for an extended time I would expect many of the electrolytic's to have 'dried out'. So re-capping is definitely a good idea.
As for the black marks, I can only presume they are some kind of manufacturing or assembly check marks. I did not make them myself.
What would I have done differently? Used the Nichicon FG's in the first instance rather than mucking about with the Elna Silmic II's. The Elna's are a great product, but are they any better that the Nichicons, I guess that comes down to personal taste. I love the sound of the L-430 now, they were great amplifiers in their time, and still perform outstandingly well today.
Good Luck,
Trevor
I'm very gratified that people are still finding this thread, and finding it useful.
The slightly higher voltage ratings on your replacement caps are fine, in fact I normally go up one step in voltage spec as a matter of course. As long as the capacitance ratings match. I did measure all of the old caps I replaced, and it was a real mixed bag. Some were still relatively close to spec, whilst others were well out of spec. It's amazing that the unit functioned as well as it did! I also only tested the old caps once they were out of the circuit. If the amp has been sitting in it's box for an extended time I would expect many of the electrolytic's to have 'dried out'. So re-capping is definitely a good idea.
As for the black marks, I can only presume they are some kind of manufacturing or assembly check marks. I did not make them myself.
What would I have done differently? Used the Nichicon FG's in the first instance rather than mucking about with the Elna Silmic II's. The Elna's are a great product, but are they any better that the Nichicons, I guess that comes down to personal taste. I love the sound of the L-430 now, they were great amplifiers in their time, and still perform outstandingly well today.
Good Luck,
Trevor
Kim Puchong
New Member
Cheers for you!
I spent a week following this thread from top to bottom. I also have Luxman L-430 and your contribution helped me a lot! I am so glad that you finally fixed the problem. My L-430 is still working fine and am satisfied. But I will do recap sometime in the future. Your trial and error will be a great help. And this is a tip.
I replaced the original opamp on the volume board with a discrete opamp made by AudioFeel, a company in South Korea. The new opamp makes transistor amp work like a tube amp. The difference is tremendous! I don't know how to technically explain the product. With that I have been spending days in heaven. Good days!
Trevor White
Classic not Plastic
Cheers for you!
I spent a week following this thread from top to bottom. I also have Luxman L-430 and your contribution helped me a lot! I am so glad that you finally fixed the problem. My L-430 is still working fine and am satisfied. But I will do recap sometime in the future. Your trial and error will be a great help. And this is a tip.
I replaced the original opamp on the volume board with a discrete opamp made by AudioFeel, a company in South Korea. The new opamp makes transistor amp work like a tube amp. The difference is tremendous! I don't know how to technically explain the product. With that I have been spending days in heaven. Good days!
That's great to hear Kim. I'm pleased that you were able to find the thread useful.
Interesting about changing that OpAmp. Which model did you use? I have found some detail on the AudioFeel 2G OPM2320S, the description of which seemed to be what you were talking about.
All the Best,
Trevor
Riccardo.m81
New Member
Hi, I recently discovered this discussion. I try to ask you my question. I recently got a Luxman L-435, it is in excellent condition, working in all its parts. Everything is original and for this reason I was advised to replace at least the large 15,000 µF 63V capacitors. I can't find where to find and which ones .... I found myself on this page looking for answers .... Can you help me? Thank you! Sorry my english, i'm using google translator .... i write from italy.
Thanks so much
Riccardo
Trevor White
Classic not Plastic
Hi there Riccardo.
The big filter capacitors that I used were these: (I substituted the Italian address for Mouser.Com)
https://www.mouser.it/ProductDetail...htFN9FRzpsyQzyUZWnftVRx4j7oe4JopVKytvLPzkLw==
They are Cornell Dubilier 15,000uF 80V. I went up one voltage rating from 63V to 80V. This just ensures that there is plenty of voltage headroom.
If you look back in this thread, here https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...30-recap-overhaul.845092/page-2#post-12146721 you will see them mounted in my L-430.
Good Luck,
Trevor
Riccardo.m81
New Member
[QUOTE = "Trevor White, post: 14797546, member: 245957"] Ciao Riccardo.
I grandi condensatori di filtro che ho usato erano questi: (ho sostituito l'indirizzo italiano con Mouser.Com)
https://www.mouser.it/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier-CDE/383LX153M080N082?qs=/ha2pyFaduhhtFN9FRzpsyQzyUZWnftVRx4j7oe4JopVKytvLPzkLw==
Sono Cornell Dubilier 15.000uF 80V. Sono aumentato di una tensione nominale da 63 V a 80 V. Questo assicura solo che ci sia un ampio margine di tensione.
Se guardi indietro in questo thread, qui https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...30-recap-overhaul.845092/page-2#post-12146721 li vedrai montati in il mio L-430.
In bocca al lupo,
Trevor [/ QUOTE]
Grazie mille per aver risposto.
Non appena saranno disponibili li ordinerò.
Grazie ancora
I grandi condensatori di filtro che ho usato erano questi: (ho sostituito l'indirizzo italiano con Mouser.Com)
https://www.mouser.it/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier-CDE/383LX153M080N082?qs=/ha2pyFaduhhtFN9FRzpsyQzyUZWnftVRx4j7oe4JopVKytvLPzkLw==
Sono Cornell Dubilier 15.000uF 80V. Sono aumentato di una tensione nominale da 63 V a 80 V. Questo assicura solo che ci sia un ampio margine di tensione.
Se guardi indietro in questo thread, qui https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...30-recap-overhaul.845092/page-2#post-12146721 li vedrai montati in il mio L-430.
In bocca al lupo,
Trevor [/ QUOTE]
Grazie mille per aver risposto.
Non appena saranno disponibili li ordinerò.
Grazie ancora
Trevor White
Classic not Plastic
Kim Puchong
New Member
Hi, Trevor
I reply via mail to attach some image files concerning opamp. Its exact name is OPM3320D-TP16 (DUAL High Impedance). AudioFeel checks impedance or resistors around the existing opamp before making discrete opamp ordered. I don't know the way. So I sent them image files so that they check the impedance. Luxman L-430 needs high impedance type opamp. AudioFeel says discrete opamp which matches the amplifier board impedance affects the sound quality.
Effect: Overall bandwidth of the sound from the speakers seems expanded a lot. Sound goes down deeper. The difference is easy to notice. The sound stage gets clearer. And you may need to run the amp turned on for at least 72 hours of burning time. After that, you may start to listen to all the CDs and LPs again. Of Course, you may need to spray Lectricare around every joints and terminals and the inside of selector, balance, volume knobs including speaker terminals to reduce or minimize the contact resistance.
Today, a taditional holiday here, I listened to Beethoven's late piano sonatas played by Pollini. I think I haven't tasted the overall quality of the music so far. It was so different. If you try more puchy, popular, or modern music, the difference gets more noticeable.
Good day,
Puchong